Serge the Concierge

In the Belly of the Olive Oil Beast, Extra Virginity Talk with Tom Mueller

Having spent 5 years working on his first book, Extra Virginity (WW Norton, Fall 2011), Tom Mueller shares good sides as well as shady corners of the olive oil world.

After a bit of back and forth, Tom finally found time to answer a few questions I sent his way.

Here's my Extra Virginity talk with Tom Mueller.

Q: Tom, did your piece 'Slippery Business' for New Yorker in 2007 plant seeds for your book 'Extra Virginity'? 

Yes – I knew next to nothing about olive oil before writing that story, though I'd lived in Italy for over a decade.  I started looking into olive oil when I happened to see a video of olive farmers blockading a port in south Italy – Monopoli, to be precise – claiming that fake olive oil was being illegally imported.  This made me want to investigate further.

Q: Was there a moment, a person, something that incensed you, that motivated you to write this book?

Flavio Zaramella, terminally ill w/ cancer and raging at the inequities in the market.  And a hundred or more honest, determined olive farmers and millers, talking about how their customers sometimes called them thieves for charging an honest amount for their oil.

Q: The prologue 'essences' takes us to Mastri Oleari in Milan, can you describe what the organization stands for?

Highest quality olive oil and high ethical standards.

Q: Being around people like Flavio Zamarella at Mastri Oleari or with the De Carlos family where there times when you felt like you knew next to nothingabout olive oil?

Certainly the learning curve was steep at first and I find I never stop learning about olive oil – even 5 years on, every time I speak w/ an expert or visit a mill I learn something new.

Q: If you had to pick 3 of the worst odors/ characters of bad to worse 'olive' oils what would they be?

Rancid (gone off – the most frequent flaw), worm (grubs from the parasitic olive fly inside olives, ground into oil), and musty (mold)

Q: How do farmers/producers who have poured their life, their soul into making 'honest' olive oil survive in a market flooded by cheap knockoffs?

They often don't.  Many are abandoning their groves, and going into bankruptcy.  Those who do make their money elsewhere (eg wine), and take a loss on their oil.  Ridiculuous situation, but omnipresent.

Q: Who are the worst offenders in pushing virgin in name only oils? Is it country specific?

The biggest industrial olive oil companies are all Iberian (Spanish & Portuguese) bottling companies. They often sell oil under Italian labels, but the oil is usually Spanish, Tunisian, etc.

Q: Why is 28.9 temperature important for professional olive oil tasters?

The aromatics in the oil become volatile and therefore enter the taster's nasal passages more easily – it's like warming brandy in a snifter.

Q: Greeks celebrated aesthetic and spiritual aspects of olive oil while Romans concentrated on its commercial possibilities, what is at the root of this difference?

Deep-rooted cultural differences:  Greeks were more oriented philosophical, scientific, hedonistic pursuits, the Romans to business, conquest, orderly human structures. 

Q: If in time of amphoras as oil receptacles one could tell what he was buying, why is it so difficult to sort the bad from the great now?

In large part because the central governments aren't taking the time and going to the expense to police the market.  At times because the big companies have strong political ties at the governmental and EU level.

Q: Are labels, first press, extra virgin, organic, meaningless and how can trust be restored?

Right now they are empty phrases.  Trust can be restored by a minimum of enforcement from above, and a lot of education from below among consumers – that's how the quality revolutions in wine, microbrew beer, coffee, artisanal cheeses, etc,  got started.

Q: How much should we expect to pay for authentic 'extra virgin' olive oil?

Wide range of prices.  Perfectly good, fresh, extra virgin  olive oil should be available at current supermarket prices (Corto Olive and COR now produce it in the states, adn Kirkland at Costco is real extra virgin).  The really grand cru estate oils, esp those made in high-price places like Tuscany, can (inc labor, shipping etc) cost $30/lit.  Much more than this however is markup by the retailer.

Q: Last, name 3 'honest' olive oils at various price points that one should try in the U.S?

See above.

Thanks Tom for your time

Egg, Soy, Nut and Sugar Free, Spinach, Pear and Beet Salad with Sherry Dressing

Whether for health reasons or making a choice to eat in a more balanced way, The Dairy Free & Gluten Free Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, Paperback, January 2012) by Denise Jardine offers 150 recipes (from Pancakes to Pizza) for all occasions and seasons.

For lunch or dinner a salad is always welcome. In the winter say it with pears

Spinach, pear, and beet salad with sherry dressing

Free of egg soy nut sugar

serves 4 to 6

Salad
3 medium golden or red beets, trimmed
6 cups stemmed baby spinach leaves, lightly packed (about 1 bunch)
3 ripe Bartlett or Bosc pears, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1/3 cup dried cranberries
 

Dressing
1 cup peeled, cored, and diced ripe Bartlett or Bosc pear (1 or 2 pears)
1/3 cup dry sherry
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 small shallot, chopped
1 teaspoon gluten-free Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon Date Syrup (page 189) or honey
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

 

 

To prepare the beets: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Wrap the beets individually in aluminum foil, enclosing them completely. Roast the beets in the oven for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a fork. Allow the beets to cool completely, about 2 hours or overnight. Using a sharp paring knife, peel the beets and slice them 1/2 inch thick.

Meanwhile, prepare the dressing.

To prepare the dressing: Combine the diced pear, sherry, olive oil, lemon juice, shallot, mustard, date syrup, salt, and pepper in a blender and puree until smooth. Taste and correct the seasonings.

To assemble the salad: Place the spinach in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over the greens and toss to coat. Divide the greens equally among 4 to 6 plates. Arrange the pear slices and beets atop the greens, and scatter the cranberries over them.

Serve immediately.

(* "Spinach, Pear, and Beet Salad with Sherry Dressing” recipe from THE DAIRY-FREE & GLUTEN-FREE KITCHEN by Denise Jardine, Paperback published by Ten Speed Press, January 2012, all rights reserved

Wild Mushroom, Parmesan, and Arugula Bruschetta Recipe by Clodagh McKenna

After a holiday week-end of eating and imbibing excess, a healthy salad along with a simple bruschetta like the one below from Homemade (Kyle Books, 2011) by Clodagh McKenna will do the trick and double as Meatless Monday correct.

Wild mushroom, parmesan, and arugula bruschetta

There are lots of different toppings for a bruschetta, including the traditional tomato and basil or roasted asparagus and feta cheese.

Serves 4

olive oil
14oz mixed wild mushrooms (such as porcini, oyster, chanterelle, and morel)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
juice of 1/2 lemon
8 slices of sourdough bread
2oz Parmesan cheese

Place a skillet over medium heat and drizzle in some olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and squeeze over the lemon juice. Let cook for 3–5 minutes, tossing all the time.

Toast the sourdough bread on both sides and drizzle with a little olive oil.

When the mushrooms are cooked, divide them between the 8 slices of toasted bread.

Place slivers of Parmesan cheese over the mushrooms (I find that my vegetable peeler is the best utensil for this).

(* Recipe from Homemade by Clodagh McKenna- Kyle Books 2011- reprinted by permission of the publisher, all rights reserved. Photo by Alberto Peroli)

Snowshoeing Best Way to Burn Calories Piled Up at Holiday Parties

After piling up the calories at holiday parties, can we shake some of them off?

Acccording to Get Fit for the New Year (December 27, Inside Vancouver), Snowshoeing beats jogging or hiking by making you burn up to 1000 calories per hour.

They offer 3 local options including Discovery Trails on Mount Seymour.

Closer to my New Jersey digs, John P. Kelly in Snowshoeing in New Jersey mentions abandonned rail trails like the Sussex Branch Trail as good options.

John P. Kelly notes that there are 2 types of showshoes, bearpaws ans teardrops. He recommends teardrops for newcomers.

Want to give showshoeing a try, check Tips for New Snowshoers by Snowshoe Vancouver.

A pair of adult snowshoes might cost anywhere from $140 to $300 if results of my quick search were accurate.

All you need is snow.

(* Showshoes photo by Willmcw from snowshoe piece on Wikipedia)

Shy Shy, Go for the Blushing Greyhound Drink, Alcohol, Gluten & Lactose Free

Shy, shy go for the Blushing Greyhound non-alcoholic drink from The Intolerant Gourmet: Glorious Food without Gluten & Lactose by Barbara Kafka (Artisan Books)

Blushing Greyhound

Makes 1 Serving

Enjoy as a beverage or use as a base for a sorbet.

½ cup ice cubes
½ cup fresh grapefruit juice
2 ½ teaspoons grenadine syrup
Wrap the ice cubes in a dishtowel and pound with a heavy saucepan. Place the remaining ingredients in a tall glass with the crushed ice. Stir well. Serve immediately.

Variation

Blushing Greyhound Sorbet
Makes 1 Quart
To make a sorbet, combine 2 cups grapefruit juice, 3 ½ tablespoons grenadine, and 1 cup Simple Syrup and freeze the mixture overnight. Make sure to scrape it periodically with a fork to prevent it from becoming one solid block. Otherwise, pour the mixture into ice cube trays, freeze overnight, and then process in a food processor. Alternatively, use a sorbet maker.

Simple Syrup

Makes 3 cups

Simple Syrup is often used to sweeten cold drinks—alcoholic and non—as the sugar is already dissolved. It is also used to make sorbet. It sweetens the dish but also keeps it from degenerating into large crystals.
The simple syrup given here is a one-to-one syrup, meaning one part water to one part sugar. Sometimes a heavier syrup made with two parts sugar to one part water is desire, or, conversely, a lighter one made with one part sugar to two parts water. Boiling the syrup not only dissolves the sugar but also stabilizes the mixture.
2 cups sugar
Combine the sugar with 2 cups water in a small saucepan. Over high heat, bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer until the sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes.

(*Excerpted from The Intolerant Gourmet: Glorious Food without Gluten & Lactose by Barbara Kafka (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2011. Photographs by Johnny Miller.

Empire of the Senses, Spices, A Little History, Spices by Fabienne Gambrelle

Add cloves, galangal, coriander, sumac, cinnamon and any number of spices to a dish and it will give it another dimension (if the match is right).

I received a copy of Spices (Flammarion, September 2011) by Fabienne Gambrelle at the end of the summer. Under the cover you actually find 2 separate books, one dedicated to The History of Spices, the other to The Flavor of Spices.

Why did it take so long for me to share this wonderful introduction to the empire of the senses and spices? I needed to soak in its content, especially, the first part (history) which I will try to do justice today.

Fabienne Gambelle begins her introduction to The History of Spices with a trip back to 18th century:

"June 10, 1760: a gigantic fire lit up the Amsterdam skies. Four million florins' worth of spices went up in smoke, estimated Valmont de Bomare, a French naturalist who witnessed the blaze. Spectators waded through scented clouds, eyes streaming from the nutmeg and cloves that were burning up on the bonfire. Anyone who dared to snatch a few spices from the pyre, guarded by soldiers, would be put to death."

First chapter 'At the origins of a dream' opens in fantasy land:

"Whether bought from the King of Perfumes, the bearded snake who reigned over the Land of the Pount, or gathered in spice-rich Arabia from phoenix's nest made of frankincense, cinnamon or myrrh, or even harvested by the wind and transported to men over the rivers of the Garden of Delights, spices most assuredly come to us from a place that was imagined by the peoples of ancient times and the Middle Ages as quite fabulous"

Back in fact land, the author notes that "the first perfume ever written about is frankincense, also considered a spice. Frankincense was burned to diffuse the odor of gods in temples, and later to suggest divine presence in churches."

As for cures, "Arab medicine considered the malady of love an illness in itself, to be cured with spices that would extinguish or awaken desire, depending on the prescription of the doctor or magician".

Its cleansing power was another attribute "to avoid contagion and disinfect the chambers of the sick...The Chinese freshened their breath by chewing on cloves. The Egyptians were partial to the perfume of cardamon water, and the Romans were fond of cinnamon and saffron oils and balms. At Nero's banquets, spices were not only found in the guests' plates: they were also vaporized into the air using a sophisticated system hidden in the ceiling of the Golden House."

As for pepper, we learn that "the first author to describe pepper was Theophrastus, a disciple of Plato and then Aristotle, in the third century B.C.E. He knew it was a fruit, but had no idea where it came from" and "Pepper signaled luxury and refinement and was widely used in the sophisticated Roman cuisine advocated by Apicius, the first century Roman gastronome."

I never used 'asefatida' which the author says is also known as 'devil's dung' and on the sensory side "when added to food, it brings an enticing garlicky aroma."

Another chapter is dedicated to The Spice Wars from 16th to 18th centuries. Fabienne Gambrelle writes that after Europeans took over commercial routes from Arabs they fought wars with local tribes and kingdoms to take over plantations of spices they loved. They then fought amongst themselves for control (monopoly) for routes between the Malaccas (the Spice Islands) and Europe.

Huge profits were at stake as she states that "the value of a cargo-load of cloves could be multiplied by eight hundred."

Fortunes changed when "Spain invaded Portugal in 1580-81, the smaller kingdom lost its overseas posts to Most Catholic Spain, which soon ran into conflict with the ambitions of England and the Netherlands, both Protestant."

Then 'early in the seventeenth century, the Dutch took over the Sunda Islands, the Malaccas, the port of Malacca, and then the island of Ceylan."The French wanted a seat at the spice table and were served in that quest by the resilience and audacity of 'the aptly named Pierre Poivre'.

The last pages of The History of Spice document changes under way. While originally certain spices were limited to specific parts of the world, this started to change in late 19th and eraly 20th century. Author offers as an example cardammon in 1920's "introduced into Guatemala to replace coffee. According to United Nations statistics, Guatemalan cardamon production now exceeds that of India."

On this, I will stop my take on first half of Spices. I will hopefully sooner rather than later have time to cover 'The Flavor of Spices' section of the book. If you are looking for food related books as gift ideas besides cookbooks, 'Spices' is a perfect pick, a beautiful object too.

(* All quotes from Spices by Fabienne Gambrelle with Photographs by Sophie Boussahba, published by Flammarion, all rights reserved)

Simplicity and Time for Contemplation, Japanese Ofuro, Hinoki Hot Tubs Nec Plus Ultra

When was the last time you soaked in the tub without worrying about time?

Surroundings, the room where you bathe matter.

In Japan for Ofuro (bath), wooden hot tubs combine comfort and simplicity.

If your living space allows, setting your Ofuro in a room with a view (onto a garden) will add to its Zen quality.

Hinoki wood is nec plus ultra if price tag is not an issue.

Soaking in a hot tub in Japan is as much to soothe the soul and mind than the aching body.

A good introduction to this topic is The Japanese Bath (Gibbs Smith) by Yoshiko Yamamoto and Bruce Smith with great photography by Aya Brackett including cover (pictured above).

Unfortunately book is currently on back order and will be available again in March 2012.

Time for contemplation on Tokyo Thursdays # 213

Previously: Pine Cones as Placecard Holders at 16 Seat Restaurant Les Chanterelles in Tokyo

(* Image of The Japanese Bath cover from Aya Brackett's website)

Vienna, Zurich, Auckland, World's Top 3 Cities in Mercer 2011 Quality of Living Survey

Taking a quick glance at Mercer 2011 Quality of Living Survey first thing I noted is that top 3 cities in their world rankings are Vienna, Zurich and Auckland followed by Munich (4th) and Dusseldorf and Vancouver tied for 5th place.

In the Americas, the only U.S city to make it in top 30 is Honolulu at number 29. Four other cities in Americas Top 5 are in Canada.

With upheavals in the Middle East, student protests in Chile and general discontent in Greece, Mercer chose personal safety as its special topic for 2011.

Amongst 221 cities surveyed, Mercer report finds Baghdad coming last both for quality of life and personal safety.

Food might have been one of the reasons that Vienna won top spot.

Places like Bistro Glacis (pictured above) which Discover Austria describes as "a wee bit hard to find, located atop the old city walls of Vienna. With its romantic garden, it is a popular watering hole for a widely diverse crowd."

They serve local fare like Panfried blackpudding, served with steamed cabbage and
boiled potatoes.

Check their Standard Menu for more details.

Vienna is also one of these rare cities with wineries at its door steps.

(* Photo of Bistro Glacis garden from restaurant's photo gallery)

Hangover Tofu Omelet, Post Holiday Recipe from Tipsy Vegan Cookbook

After a 4 day holiday week-end, a light start on Monday is in order.

I showed the Rabelaisian side of The Tipsy Vegan (Da Capo, Lifelong Press, November 2011) by John Schlimm with his Chugging Pumpkin Soup recipe.

I follow it with the healing side of this cookbook.

The Hangover Tofu Omelet with Sautéed Chopped Bell Pepper Filling

Following an unbridled marathon of revelry and laughter, your weekend guests will be happily red-eyed with gratitude when you spring this masterpiece of an omelet on them at the brunch table. and if you haven’t yet discovered nutritional yeast, get ready to fall in love. Not to be confused with baking yeast or brewer’s yeast, this humble flake imparts a deliciously cheesy, nutty flavor.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced
6 ounces extra-firm silken tofu, cubed and pressed to
remove excess water (see instructions on page 31)
1 tablespoon soy milk or other nondairy milk
1 tablespoon marsala
1 tablespoon powdered nutritional yeast
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon tahini
1 to 2 pinches onion powder
1 to 2 pinches garlic powder
1⁄8 teaspoon turmeric
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pinch smoked paprika

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, place 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the bell pepper and sauté until softened and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes.

In a blender, combine the tofu, soy milk, Marsala, yeast, cornstarch, tahini, onion and garlic powders, turmeric, salt, pepper, and paprika. Blend until smooth.

In another large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, place the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When the oil slides easily across the skillet when tilted, pour in the omelet batter and smooth the top with a spatula. Scatter the cooked bell pepper over the surface and reduce the heat to low.
Cover the skillet and cook for about 3 minutes, checking every 30 seconds to see if it’s ready to fold. When the edges have dried, lift a section to see if the omelet is set. It should be golden, but not brown. Loosen the omelet by sliding the spatula underneath it, then fold the omelet in half.

Cook for another minute, then slide the omelet onto a warm plate

(*From the book The Tipsy Vegan, by John Schlimm.  Reprinted by arrangement with Da Capo Lifelong, a member of the Perseus Books Group. Copyright © 2011.)

After all that Turkey, Vegan Butternut Squash Chestnut Soup with Caramelized Pears, Recipe from Candle 79 Cookbook

After all that Turkey talk, what we need is a vegan recipe from Candle 79 Cookbook: Modern Vegan Classics from New York’s Premier Sustainable Restaurant (Ten Speed Press, Fall 2011) by Joy Pierson, Angel Ramos, and Jorge Pineda.

Butternut Squash–Chestnut Soup with Caramelized Pears

1 cinnamon stick
1 whole nutmeg, halved
1 stalk lemongrass, chopped
2 cardamom pods
1 (1-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 dried chipotle chiles
1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large leek, white and pale green parts, rinsed and finely chopped
3 pounds butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
1 cup drained canned or jarred chestnuts, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
8 cups water
Balsamic-Caramelized Pears
1 tablespoon grapeseed or safflower oil
2 ripe pears, peeled, cored, and diced
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons pure maple syrup
Sea salt

Serves 6 to 8

Put the cinnamon stick, nutmeg, lemongrass, cardamom pods, ginger, and chipotle peppers in cheesecloth. Knot securely or tie with string and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the leek and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes.
Add the squash, chestnuts, sage, cheesecloth pouch, and water. The water should cover the squash by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat, cover, and simmer until the squash is tender and falls apart, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

To make the caramelized pears, heat the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the pears and sauté for 5 minutes. Decrease the heat to medium and stir in the maple syrup, cinnamon, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Continue to cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the pears are soft and the liquid becomes syrupy and coats the pears. Set aside to cool.

To finish the soup, remove the cheesecloth pouch and discard. Add the maple syrup and salt to taste.

Transfer the soup to a blender and process until smooth, or process the soup in the pot with an immersion blender. If the soup seems too thick, add a bit more water.

To serve, gently reheat the soup, taste, and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Ladle into soup bowls, garnish with the caramelized pears, and serve warm.

(* Reprinted with permission from Candle 79 Cookbook: Modern Vegan Classics from New York’s Premier Sustainable Restaurant. Copyright © 2011 by Joy Pierson, Angel Ramos, and Jorge Pineda. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, Berkeley, CA. Photo credit: Rita Maas.)