Bright and Sunny Ceviche de Mango from Ceviche by Martin Morales

After Conchas Borrachas, Drunken Scallops from Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, May 27, 2014) by Martin Morales, here's a more sober recipe.


It may sound like an unusual combination—mango, onion, and lime—but the flavors and textures in this ceviche really work. It is one of my favorite summersalads and is best made when mangoes are perfectly ripe.


1 large red onion, thinly sliced
2 large ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted, and cut into 3/4-inch / 2-cm dice
Juice of 4 limes
1/4 tsp salt
1 limo chile, seeded and finely chopped
Leaves from 2 cilantro sprigs, finely chopped

CPKT Ceviche de Mango - Mango Ceviche image p 160

Put the red onion in iced water for 10 minutes while you prepare the other ingredients.

Place the diced mangoes in a bowl and add half the lime juice and salt. Taste for balance and add more of both if necessary; you don’t want it to taste too sour.

Add the chile, then drain the onion and add it along with the cilantro leaves.

Stir everything gently to combine and then leave in the fridge for 5 minutes to chill and marinate.

Serve in individual large glasses or bowls.

(* “Reprinted with permission from Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen by Martin Morales -Ten Speed Press, © 2014- Photo credit: Paul Winch-Furness) 

Cook Dish from Rio Once Done Shoveling Snow, Feijoada Fritters with Collard Greens

What's easier than heading for the airport to forget about the cold snap?

Cook a dish from a sunny place like this recipe from My Rio de Janeiro (Kyle Books USA, November 2013) by Leticia Moreinos Schwartz , an invitation to travel.

Bolinho de Feijoada do Aconchego Carioca

Feijoada Fritters with Collard Greens

Kátia Barbosa, the chef at Aconchego Carioca, an exciting botequim located near Praçada Bandeira, is playing with the most traditional dishes of Brazilian cuisine and creating new classics. If you are a tourist, you might never have heard of the neighborhood Praça da Bandeira, but trust me, you want to go there. The food being served at Aconchego Carioca is captivating audiences from all over town and fueling the renaissance of a whole neighborhood.I heard a lot about Kátia’s famous feijoada fritters, so when I first tried them, I was full of expectations. Well, let me tell you that this bolinho (fritter) exceeded them: it is a bright twist on our national dish, one that offers a tiny crunchy taste of our traditional black bean and meat stew. Serve with orange sections and a caipirinha.

Makes about 40

1 pound dried black beans (about 21/4 cups), picked and rinsed

4 ounces jerk meat, carne seca (see Glossary), cut into 1/2-inch cubes

4 ounces pork shoulder, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

4 ounces bacon, cut into thin strips

1 linguiça (or chorizo), cut into 1/2-inch cubes

3 bay leaves

8 cups water

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

5 garlic cloves, finely minced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of cayenne

Pinch of paprika

Freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup manioc (flour farinha de mandioca fina)

Collard Greens

1 tablespoon olive oil

8 ounces bacon, finely diced

2 garlic cloves

1 bunch collard greens, sliced very thin and blanched

Ingredient Note: Just like feijoada (page 38), you can use different kinds of meat here.Try to include different flavors,like smoked meats, fresh meats,and different sausages.


Combine the beans, jerk meat, pork, bacon, linguiça, and bay leaves inside a pressure cooker. Pour in the water, cover the pan, lock the lid, and cook until the beans are soft and the meat is tender, about 1 hour (start at high; when you hear the pressure hissing, bring the heat down to low and start timing). Remove the steam/pressure, uncover the pan,and cool for 20 minutes. (If you don’t have a pressure cooker, put the ingredients in a Dutch oven pan and cook for 3 hours, until the beans and meat are cooked.)

Transfer everything to a blender and blend until smooth—do this in batches if necessary. At this point the mixture will look like a thick brown paste—not very appealing, but stay with me, it really will taste divine. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat, add the garlic, and cook until just golden, about 2 minutes. Add the bean and meat paste, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it starts to bubble, 5 to 8 minutes. Taste (it will be quite seasoned from the meats) and adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper, the cayenne, paprika, and nutmeg.

Sprinkle in 1 cup of the manioc flour, stirring with a wooden spoon until the bean puree starts to pull from the pan, leaving a skin on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool slightly. Sprinkle the sour manioc starch on a cool surface and knead the bean paste with the starch until well combined and smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and cover loosely with plastic wrap to keep it moist.

To make the collard greens, in a separate large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the bacon, cooking until just crisp, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, just until crispy. Add the blanched collard greens and toss, stirring constantly, until tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and cool to room temperature.

Scoop about 2 tablespoons of the bean paste and roll it into a ball. Using your thumb, press a cavity into the ball, stuff with a small amount of the collard green mixture, and close the ball, pinching to seal. Lightly press the ball between your hands to form it into a patty shape, making sure the filling is completely enclosed. Repeat with the remaining bean paste and collards. (At this point, the feijoada fritters can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 hours before cooking, or frozen for up to 6 months; freeze in a single layer on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet, then transfer to freezer bags.)

Pour the vegetable oil into a heavy-bottomed pot and heat to 350˚F, as measured by a deep-fat thermometer. Fry the fritters in batches, adding as many as will fit without touching, turning them occasionally with a long slotted spoon. They will not take on a lot of color; they will become just a shade darker after frying. Transfer to a plate covered with paper towels. Continue working in batches until all are fried. (The fritters can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge and reheated in a 300˚F oven for 5 to 10 minutes.)

RESTAURANT: Aconchego Carioca, Rua Barao de Iguatemi, 379 Praça da Bandeira, 

(* Recipe from My Rio de Janeiro by Leticia Moreinos Schwartz-Kyle Books USA, November 2013- Food photography by Kate Sears, all rights reserved)

Put Some Sweet and Spicy Thai in your Fruit Salad with Som Tam Phonlamai from 'Pok Pok'

Put some sweet and spicy Thai in your fruit salad offerings this holiday season with this recipe from Pok PokFood and Stories from the Streets, Homes, and Roadside Restaurants of Thailand (Ten Speed Press, Fall 2013) by Andy Ricker of Pok Pok restaurant with J.J. Goode.

Som Tam Phonlamai,Thai Fruit Salad 

Just one of many examples of som tam that has nothing to do with green papaya (I do like to add some for this rendition, but you could certainly leave it out) and almost everything to do with the method of preparation: made in a clay mortar, the salad requires the same gentle pounding that aims to bruise but not smash the main ingredients, allowing some of the sweet-tart dressing to pervade. Use any fruit you want, even if it’s just one or two kinds. Be sure to choose fruit that strikes a good balance between sweetness and tartness. If the fruit is very sweet, you’ll want to scale back on the sugar and perhaps bump up the lime juice. 

Flavor Profile: Sweet, spicy, tart, slightly salty

Try It With: Plaa Neung Si Ew (Steamed whole fish with soy sauce), page 79, or Kai Yaang (Whole roasted young chicken), page 135, and coconut rice (page 193). 


A papaya shredder (or mandoline or large knife)

A Thai clay mortar

A wooden pestle 

Serves 2 to 6 as part of a meal; you can double the recipe in a large clay mortar 

1 generous tablespoon medium-size dried shrimp, rinsed and patted dry

1 ounce palm sugar

1/4 teaspoon water

1 small lime (preferably a Key lime), halved through the stem

3 grams fresh Thai chiles (about 2), preferably red

1 tablespoon lime juice (preferably from Key limes or spiked with a small squeeze of Meyer lemon juice)

1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce

1 ounce peeled, shredded green papaya (about 1/2 cup, lightly packed)

14 grams peeled carrot, cut into long (about 3-inch), thin (about 1/8-inch) strips (about   1/4 cup, lightly packed)

8 ounces mixed crunchy, sweet, and tart fruit (such apple, pear, pineapple, green mango, and persimmon), any inedible skin peeled, cut into irregular 1-inch chunks

8 to 10 grapes, halved

2 ounces cherry tomatoes (about 4), halved, or quartered if very large

2 generous tablespoons coarsely chopped unsalted roasted peanuts 

Som Tam Phonlamaay (thai fruit salad


Heat a small dry pan or wok over medium heat, add the dried shrimp, and cook, stirring frequently, until they’re dry all the way through and slightly crispy, about 5 minutes. Set them aside in a small bowl to cool. They’ll keep covered at room temperature for up to 1 week. 

Put the palm sugar in a small microwavable bowl, sprinkle on the 1/4 teaspoon of water, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and microwave on low just until the sugar has softened (not liquefied), 10 to 30 seconds. Pound the mixture in a mortar (or mash it in the bowl) until you have a smooth paste. Covered, it will keep soft for up to 2 days. 


Cut one of the lime halves lengthwise into thirds, then cut the thirds in half crosswise. Set aside 2 of the pieces (reserve the remaining lime for another purpose). 

Combine the chiles and 1 heaping teaspoon (or less if the fruit is very sweet) of the softened palm sugar in a large clay mortar and pound just until you have a chunky sludge with medium pieces of chile, 5 to 10 seconds. 

Add the 2 lime wedges and pound very lightly and briefly, just to release the juice, then add the shrimp and pound lightly just to release their flavor (don’t smash or pulverize them). 

Add the lime juice, fish sauce, papaya, and carrot. The next step is easy but subtle. You want to use the pestle to barely bruise the papaya (lightly pounding at a slight angle, not directly up-and-down) for about 10 seconds, while simultaneously using a large spoon to scoop up from the bottom of the mortar, essentially tossing the papaya, palm sugar mixture, and the other ingredients as you pound. Do not smash the papaya. It should remain crisp. 

Add the fruit, including the grapes, and pound the same way you did the papaya, barely bruising the fruit and definitely not smashing it. 

Add the tomatoes and pound lightly, just to release the juice. Taste the salad and if necessary, season with additional lime juice and fish sauce to achieve a salad that’s, in descending order of prominence, sweet from the fruit, spicy, sour, and a little salty. 

Finally, add the peanuts and mix well with the spoon. Transfer to a plate, liquid and all, in a low mound, and serve. 

(* Reprinted with permission from Pok Pok by Andy Ricker with J.J. Goode, copyright © 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc, Photography: Austin Bush © 2013)

Rays of Sunshine Food, Coconut Cilantro Toasted Israeli Couscous from 'Choosing Sides'

On grey December day, rays of sunshine food from Choosing Sides (Andrews McMeel- September 10, 2013) by Crumbs on My Keyboard Tara Mataraza Desmond...

Coconut Cilantro Toasted Israeli Couscous

Serves 4

Unlike the tiny grain-like flecks of semolina couscous that fluffs and softens as it steams in aromatic water, Israeli couscous is similar in texture to pasta. Miniature pearls swell up in cooking liquid and turn velvety soft, similar to risotto, and the finished product spoons out thick and rich. Mild coconut milk lends its muted flavor and viscosity to this version, which is a perfect accompaniment to main courses featuring Asian, Latin, or tropical ingredients.

1 cup Israeli couscous
1¾ cups light coconut milk (one 13.5-ounce can)
¼ cup water
½ teaspoon kosher salt
10 grinds fresh black pepper (about ⅛ teaspoon)
⅛ teaspoon cayenne
½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped


Heat a medium deep sauté pan with a lid over medium-high heat.

Add the couscous and toast it for 3 to 4 minutes, until it turns golden and smells like baking bread.

Add the coconut milk, water, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Bring the liquid to a gentle boil, cover the pan, and decrease the heat to low. Simmer for 15 minutes, until the couscous is tender and creamy and the liquid has been mostly absorbed.

Stir in the cilantro, adjust the seasoning to taste, and serve immediately.

(* Recipe from 'Choosing Sides, From Holidays to Every Day, 130 Delicious Recipes to Make the Meal' by Tara Mataraza DesmondAndrews McMeel, September 10- Photography by Ben Pieper- all rights reserved)

Latkes with Caviar and Cream, Pair with Champagne, from Joy of Kosher for Thanksgivukkah

Since Thanksgiving and Hanukkah converge in 2013, here's a recipe from Joy of Kosher (William Morrow, October 2013) by Joy of Kosher Jamie Geller that will please all.

Latkes with Caviar and Cream

Kosher Status: Dairy • Prep: 15 minutes • Cook: 40 minutes • Total: 55 minutes • Yield: 20 latkes

You see all kinds of ubercreative latke recipes around Chanukah time: apple-parsnip
latkes, sweet potato–leek latkes, sweet cheesy latkes, savory cheese and chive latkes (all
of which you can find on Truth is, you can’t go anywhere in the
world of latkes until you’ve mastered the classic. So first I’ll teach you this special recipe
from Ma and Uputzi. They always made incredible pureed potato latkes.
I go back and forth between the puree and the shoestring version. You can do whatever
you like. No adjustments necessary; just change the food processor blade or the side
of the box grater. Of course, Ma and Uputzi grated theirs by hand on the box grater. But
when I want to fry up a hundred latkes, I hug my food processor, give it a big kiss, and
whisper, “Thank God I have you.”
When I have guests, I stick to a classic—then I go wild with toppings, creating a
latke topping bar, so your Chanukah party guests can mix and match or try all. Try guac
and an over-easy or poached egg, or slices of mozz, tomato, plus a few fresh basil leaves.
Oooo, and I love a shmear of brie topped with a dollop of jam, or blue cheese, pear, and
arugula piled high. Are you pickin’ up what I’m puttin’ down here? Endless, endless,
endless possibilities.

4 large russet potatoes (about 2 and 1⁄2 pounds)
3 large eggs, beaten
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil, for frying
1 medium onion, quartered
1⁄4 cup fine cornmeal or matzoh meal
11⁄4 cups crème frâiche or sour cream
Caviar, for garnish


1. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Peel the potatoes, cut them into quarters lengthwise, and place them in the bowl of cold water to prevent browning.

2. Combine the eggs, salt, and pepper in a large bowl; set aside.

3. Heat about 1 inch of the canola oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.

4. Put the onion and potatoes in a food processor and pulse until pureed. Transfer the mixture to the large bowl with the eggs. Add the cornmeal and mix to combine.

5. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

6. Using a ¼-cup measuring cup, scoop up the potato mixture and carefully drop it into the hot oil. Use the back of the measuring cup to flatten the latke. Fill the pan with as many latkes as you can, but do not let them touch. Do not overcrowd your pan, or the latkes will be soggy instead of crispy. Fry until golden brown and crispy, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Drain on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining batter.

7. To keep the latkes warm and crispy once fried, spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet and place in a 200°F oven until ready to serve.

8. To serve, place the latkes on a large serving tray and garnish each with a generous tablespoon of crème fraîche and caviar.

I can’t say it enough times: Remember, don’t overcrowd your pan when frying. Make sure the latkes
aren’t touching and there is room around each for the edges to crisp. That’s the perfect latke: soft,
fluffy, and creamy on the inside with crispy edges.

• Sweet Cinnamon Latkes •
My friend Anita’s grandmother used to make her latkes with a pinch of cinnamon. Full disclosure: When she mentioned her grandma’s sweet secret, I snagged it for this book.

For a sweeter version, omit the onion and the pepper, reduce the salt to a pinch, and add 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon and 3 tablespoons sugar. Mix 1 cup sour cream with ¼ cup maple syrup and serve it on the side.

PAIR IT Drappier Brut Champagne (Carte Blanche or Carte d ’Or)

This dish deserves bubbly . . . splurge here and go for the champagne.

(* Recipe from Joy of Kosher by Jamie Geller- Published by William Morrow, October 2013- all rights reserved)

What's With the Bird, Choosing Sides for Thanksgiving, Browned Brussels Sprouts

Having shared Persimmon, Pomegranate and Pistachio Salad from Choosing Sides (Andrews McMeel- September 10, 2013) by Crumbs on My Keyboard Tara Mataraza Desmond, i thought i should reopen the book in final 'sprint' before Thanksgiving 2013.

Here's a 'what's with the bird' slice of inspiration, good for vegetarians at the table too.

Browned Brussels Sprouts with Maple Butter 

Serves 4 to 6

Some people are evangelical about their favorite foods, determined to sway skeptics to their way of thinking and tasting. I’m this way about Brussels sprouts. If any preparation of these cruciferous bulbs is going to spur converts, it’s this one. The maple butter is reminiscent of caramel, creating a sweet cloak over savory sprouts that become deeply browned and crisp wherever their surfaces meet the hot pan. The maple butter can be made a day ahead, cooled completely, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature while the sprouts roast and then scrape it into the hot sprouts to melt it.

1 tablespoon plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 pounds Brussels sprouts, stem ends trimmed, outer leaves peeled, and halved (quartered if large)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup


Preheat the oven to 425°F. Brush 1 tablespoon of the olive oil on a baking sheet and transfer it to the hot oven for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, toss the sprouts with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and the salt and pepper. Pour the sprouts out onto the hot baking sheet and spread into a single layer. (Take the time to place each sprout cut side down for especially crisped and browned sprouts.)

Roast the Brussels sprouts for 15 to 20 minutes, until fork-tender and a dark brown crust forms on the sides exposed to the baking sheet.

While the sprouts roast, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling it around as it becomes liquid. Keep a close eye on the butter as it starts to foam. If you look closely at the liquid butter as it cooks, you can see tiny specks of brown appear (which are the browning milk solids). Continue heating it until it starts to smell nutty and turns from off-white to golden to light brown. Immediately remove from the heat and stir in the maple syrup. Stir briskly as the mixture sizzles and spurts. Set aside in the saucepan until the Brussels finish roasting.

Remove the Brussels from the oven and transfer to a serving bowl. Drizzle the maple butter all over, tossing to coat evenly. Serve immediately.

(* Recipe from 'Choosing Sides, From Holidays to Every Day, 130 Delicious Recipes to Make the Meal' by Tara Mataraza DesmondAndrews McMeel, September 10- Photography by Ben Pieper- all rights reserved)

Fall Temperatures Set In, Call for Roasted Acorn Squash with Jalapeno Lime Butter

'Fancy kitchens don't mean better cooking or better food' is Number 3 of Keeper's Manifesto in Keepers Two Home Cooks Share Their Tried-and-True Weeknight Recipes and the Secrets to Happiness in the Kitchen (Rodale, August 2013) by Kathy Brennan and Caroline Campion...

Their pick of recipes spells-smells like home comfort.

As Fall temperatures set in, dropping to mid-50's high in past couple of days, it is definitely squash time.



Never know what to do with acorn squash? Halve a couple, season the cut sides, and throw them in a 400°F oven. About 40 minutes later, the golden flesh is soft, sweet, slightly caramelized, and ready to eat. We like it just fine with a big pat of butter (and another generous sprinkle of salt and pepper), but it’s awfully good with this jalapeño-lime butter, too. 

Like most compound butters--which are ideal for adding lots of flavor with minimal effort--it will keep well in the freezer for about 2 months so long as it’s tightly covered, so we usually make a quadruple batch and portion it into small ramekins or plastic containers. (You can also roll up the butter in parchment paper logs; this yields nice slices later, but we find the process a little fussy.) Use it wherever you want a spicy, citrusy, buttery touch. 

2 small acorn squash (about 1 1/2 pounds each), halved lengthwise and seeded

Olive oil for coating the squash

Salt and pepper 

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 

1 garlic clove, minced 

1 to 2 tablespoons seeded and finely chopped jalapeño 

Grated zest of 1 lime 

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 

1 teaspoon honey 

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 


--Preheat the oven to 400°F, with a rack in the middle position. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper or foil for easier cleanup, if you like.

-- Lightly coat the cut sides of the squash with oil, then season with salt and pepper. Put the squash cut-side down on the pan and roast until just tender, about 40 minutes. 

-- Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the butter, garlic, jalapeños (to taste), lime zest and juice, honey, red pepper flakes, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Check the seasonings. 

-- Transfer the squash to plates, cut-side up, smear each half with some of the jalapeño-lime butter, and serve.

(* Recipe reproduced with permission from Keepers 'Two Home Cooks Share Their Tried-and-True Weeknight Recipes and the Secrets to Happiness in the Kitchen' by Kathy Brennan and Caroline Campion- Rodale, August 2013- Photo Christopher Testani)

Cassis Blanc de Blancs with Miniature Onion and Goat Cheese Tatins, Brunch a la Francaise

It just landed on my desk in time for a week-end dish. The French Kitchen Cookbook (William Morrow, October 2013) by Patricia Wells shares Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Brunch a la Francaise.

Miniature onion and goat cheese tatins

• Makes 24 miniature tatins •

These tasty, savory, miniature pastries are a huge hit in my cooking classes. There is always a great sense of satisfaction when one removes a tray of these fragrant, golden nuggets from the oven. These are best warm from the oven but are also delicious at room temperature. They can serve as appetizers or as sides to a simple green salad.

Equipment: A 2 3/4-inch (7 cm) round biscuit cutter; 2 baking sheets lined with baking parchment; a food processor; 2 nonstick petit four molds or mini muffin tins, each with twelve 2 1/2-inch (6.5 cm) cups, or a 24-cup mini-muffin pan.

A 14-ounce (400 g) sheet of Blitz Puff Pastry (page 294) or
purchased all-butter puff pastry, thawed (see Note)
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
1 pound (500 g) onions, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into
thin half-moons
Fine sea salt
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces (125 g) soft fresh goat’s milk cheese
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic
3 large eggs, preferably organic and free-range, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon fresh lemon thyme or regular thyme leaves
Fleur de sel, for garnish


1. Evenly center two racks in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2. With the biscuit cutter, cut out 24 rounds of pastry. (Note: you will get the most from the pastry
if you begin on the outside and cut rings as tightly as possible from the outside. Then work from the next large inside ring. I usually get 31 rounds out of a sheet.) Arrange the rounds side by side on the baking sheets. Prick them with a fork and freeze for at least 10 minutes.

3. In a skillet, melt the butter over low heat. Add the onions and a pinch of salt, and sweat—cook,
covered, over low heat until soft and translucent—about 10 minutes. Season with pepper.

4. In the food processor, combine the goat cheese, lemon zest, eggs, and half of the thyme leaves and process to blend. Add the cheese mixture to the onions in the skillet and stir to blend. Taste for seasoning.

5. Spoon a tablespoon of the mixture into each mold or muffin cup. Cover each one with a round of

6. Place the molds or tins in the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and golden, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly. Then remove them from the cups and turn them over, pastry side down. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with the remaining thyme leaves and fleur de sel.

Wine suggestion : The mineral-rich flavors of a blend of Marsanne, Clairette, Ugni Blanc, and Bourboulenc with their touch of spice make Domaine du Paternel 'Cassis Blanc de Blancs' a perfect palate opener to pair with the tatins.

The secret : Make sure that you cut the pastry slightly larger than the diameter of the molds, since the pastry may shrink in baking.

Variations : Replace the goat cheese with grated cheddar and bits of bacon; Feta cheese; crabmeat and tarragon; or peas, scallions, and pancetta. Add herbs. Bake as simple, lighter, “quiche-like” bites without the pastry.

Note : In our tests, we have preferred Dufour brand frozen puff pastry, available at most specialty supermarkets. Be sure to leave ample time for thawing frozen dough, at least 6 hours in the refrigerator.

(* Recipe excerpted from 'The French Kitchen Cookbook' by Patricia Wells-William Morrow, October 2013- Photographs by Jeff Kauck, all rights reserved)

No Sweat Lunch, Persimmon, Pomegranate and Pistachio Salad from 'Choosing Sides'

A leading band often has an opening act.

A main dish calls for accompaniments.

Find the right side in Choosing Sides (Andrews McMeel- September 10, 2013) by Crumbs on My Keyboard Tara Mataraza Desmond...

If you are thinking about lunch tomorrow over dinner, here's a healthy and colorful suggestion.

Persimmon, Pomegranate, and Pistachio Salad

Serves 4 to 6

Sweet, ripe, and vibrant orange persimmons are a soft, satiny bed for a colorful tangle of greens adorned with shiny ruby pomegranate and peridot-hued pistachio bits. Fennel’s earthy anise notes weave through all the flavors, which are perfect accompaniments to the most popular tastes and textures on a holiday buffet.

2 medium ripe Fuyu persimmons
1 small pomegranate
½ cup shelled roasted and salted pistachios, chopped
1 small fennel bulb, very thinly sliced or finely shaved on a mandoline
6 packed cups (about 6 ounces) mixed greens or arugula


Use a sharp paring knife to cut the skins off the persimmons and then slice the fruit into very thin rounds (if you have a mandoline, use it set at smaller than ⅛ inch). Line a large platter with the slices. Cut the pomegranate into quarters and tap out the arils, or juicy, edible seeds, from within. You’ll have to do some work with your fingers to separate the arils from the peel and white membranes, which you can
discard. Toss the pomegranate seeds, pistachios, and fennel with the greens and pile the mixture on top of the persimmons. Drizzle with the vinaigrette of your choice and serve.


Herb-crusted Roasted Turkey Breast
Maple Mustard Baked Ham
Garlic-studed Crown Roast of Pork
Seared Scallops with Brown Butter
Roasted Halibut with Olive Oil and Thyme

(* Recipe from 'Choosing Sides, From Holidays to Every Day, 130 Delicious Recipes to Make the Meal' by Tara Mataraza Desmond- Andrews McMeel, September 10- Photography by Ben Pieper- all rights reserved)

Goose Fat Roasted Potatoes with Rosemary from All About Roasting

What could protect you better from the winter cold than comfort food?

In her recent tome, All About Roasting (WW Norton, November 2011), Molly Stevens serves a few ideas including the following which would not feel out of place in Gascony.

Goose Fat Roasted Potatoes with Rosemary

This is more of a technique than an actual recipe. Once you make these potatoes a few times, you’ll
learn that you don’t really need to measure the ingredients, just as long as there’s enough fat to coat
the potatoes and the pan is big enough to hold the potatoes in a loose single layer. You can play around
with different herbs (thyme and bay are both good) or toss in a few whole garlic cloves for good measure.
The only key here is preheating the skillet and then preheating the fat. This ensures that the potatoes begin to sizzle the instant they hit the pan and thereby turn extra-crisp and don’t absorb too much fat. The potatoes turn out remarkably creamy and sweet inside, with a delectably browned exterior. You can use any waxy or all-purpose potato variety (such as round reds or small Yukon Golds), but this recipe is the perfect place to showcase specialty potatoes. French fingerlings and Russian bananas are two of my favorites. If the potatoes are very small—say, the size of a walnut—leave them whole. For anything larger, cut them in half (or quarter them), since more cut sides mean more crispy edges. Fingerlings cook best when halved lengthwise.
I realize that not every cook stores a tub of goose fat in the refrigerator (or freezer), but these potatoes
alone are worth tracking some down. Goose fat adds a savory richness to food unmatched by any other fat, with the exception of duck fat. The two are more or less interchangeable. If you roast your own goose or duck (see recipes on pages 365 and 355), you’ll have plenty of fat left over for several batches of potatoes.
Otherwise, it’s available at specialty butchers and markets and on-line (see Sources & Resources, page


Method: High heat
Roasting time: About 40 minutes
1 pound small, waxy or all-purpose potatoes, such as fingerlings, creamers, or baby Yukon golds
2 to 3 tablespoons goose fat (duck fat may be substituted)
2 to 4 sprigs fresh rosemary
Fleur de sel or Maldon salt


Heat the oven. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 400 degrees (375 degrees

1 Heat the oven. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 400 degrees (375 degrees

2 Heat the skillet and prepare the potatoes. If the potatoes are much more than 1 inch in diameter,
cut them in half or into large chunks. Once the oven is fully heated, set a 10- to 12-inch cast-iron
skillet on the oven rack and heat for 15 minutes. Without removing the skillet from the oven, add thefat (using 2 tablespoons for 10-inch and 3 tablespoons for 12-inch) and let it heat for 5 minutes.

3 Roast. Using sturdy oven mitts or pot holders, slide the oven rack out and add the potatoes and
rosemary to the hot fat. Stir briefly with a long spoon and immediately slide the pan back into the
oven. Shake the pan or stir the potatoes every 10 to 15 minutes to help the potatoes crisp up evenly.
Continue roasting until the potatoes are crisp and golden on the outside and creamy inside, about 40

4 Serve. Immediately scoop up the potatoes with a slotted spoon or spatula, leaving the rosemary
sprigs behind; transfer to a serving bowl and sprinkle with salt to taste. Serve immediately. These are
best eaten soon after roasting, while still hot.

(* Reprinted from All About Roasting: A New Approach to a Classic Art by Molly Stevens. © 2011 by Molly Stevens.  Photographs © 2011 by Quentin Bacon.  With the permission of the publisher, W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.)