Way before Black Friday, a Christmas tease, with this recipe from The Scandinavian Kitchen, Paperback Edition (Kyle Books, October 2015) by Camilla Plum.

The paperback edition adds 50 recipes to hardcover edition.

       Christmas rice pudding with almonds

For the creamed rice

1 vanilla bean

Scant 3⁄4 cup round pudding rice or risotto rice

Approx.4 cups milk (maybe 3⁄4–11⁄4 cups more, depending on the rice)

1⁄2 teaspoon salt

To finish

1⁄4 cup heavy cream

11⁄3 cups peeled Spanish almonds

1⁄4 cup sugar

3 Spanish almonds, finely ground

Sweet cherry sauce

(page 201)

Serves 8–10

Rice pudding itself is eaten frequently during the winter as a main course, dusted with cinnamon and sugar and with a generous blob of butter melting in the middle. It’s solid winter fare, and filling, but not for very long—we usually have evening tea with some bread and cheese later on.

Eating rice at Christmas is a tradition from a time when everything imported, like rice and spices were luxuries. This almond rice pudding, (riz à l’amande) is relatively new, a bourgeois revival of the peasant hot oatmeal, and in the country it’s still usual to eat ordinary creamed rice for Christmas Eve dinner, either as an appetizer, as in former times, or as a dessert. It’s an ageold custom to make sure the resident Nisse is well fed during Christmas. Lots of people, including my family, put a bowl of hot rice pudding in the attic on Christmas Eve, just to make sure. 

Riz à l’amande is lovely, and very rich, and actually not the kind of dessert I would normally recommend you eat after a heavy Christmas dinner of goose, duck, or roast pork. Tradition must not be tampered with, though, so in my family we usually eat it for breakfast the next day, in order to be able to go through with the traditional dance around the Christmas tree.

We have a tradition, similar to that of hiding money or some other treat in the Christmas pudding, of including one whole almond in the dessert. This takes skill, as there is always someone most in need of winning the “almond gift,” and you have to make sure— very discreetly—that the right person gets it. The thing not to do is make a huge bowl of riz à l’amande and put the whole almond in at random. It always ends up in the last spoonful, even if this is not statistically possible, and everybody gets a stomach ache from eating too much. Instead, serve the pudding in individual glasses, in small portions. The gift can be anything, but often it is a homemade piglet,made from marzipan, with rosy painted ears and snout.

The classic accompaniment is hot cherry sauce, a glass of cherry brandy, or a fine tawny port.

When it comes to making creamed rice, it’s all about the right saucepan. It must be thick-bottomed, or the rice will definitely burn. Slash the vanilla bean lengthwise, then put all the rice ingredients in the pan. Bring to a boil, while stirring, and then turn down the heat to a minimum. From now on, do not stir unless absolutely necessary, as you want whole, chewy rice, covered in creamy milk, not rice sludge. Let it simmer until the rice is only just done, no longer. (You may need to add more milk, depending on the rice you use.) It will finish cooking during cooling.The cooking may take 45 minutes, maybe less. If the rice is taking up much-needed space on the stove, you can make an old-fashioned hay box instead. Fill a wooden box with hay—or crumpled newspapers and towels—and put the pan in after it has first come to the boil. Remember to cover the lid with lots of towels. Let the pan sit until the rice is succulent and swelled.This will make

a better rice pudding, and is also effective with dried beans and peas and meat that otherwise would use a lot of power. If you are familiar with risotto, you can choose to make the rice pudding risotto-style. Use the same ingredients as above, but use risotto rice. Heat the milk in a separate pan, and patiently stir it into the rice a ladleful at a time, adding more as soon as it is absorbed by the rice. Whichever method you use, cool the creamed rice immediately: even if it’s warm, it must go directly in the refrigerator, unless of course you intend to eat it as is.And a warning: the creamed rice must be absolutely cold before you add the cream, or you will end up with a disgusting bowl of inedible, smelly, cheesy rice.

Whip the cream, but only until soft. Chop the Spanish almonds, remembering to reserve one whole almond; and be sure to leave a few deceptively large pieces among the others. Fold half of the cream, all the sugar, and both the chopped and ground almonds into the rice. Mix well, ensuring there are no lumps. Fold in the rest of the cream, then cover the entire bowl with plastic wrap—nothing absorbs refrigerator odors like this pudding. Put the rice in the refrigerator immediately.

Serve in individual glass dishes, in one of which you have concealed the whole almond, so that you can present that dish to the appropriate diner. Hand the cherry sauce round separately.

(* Recipe reproduced with permission from The Scandinavian Kitchen, Paperback Edition -Kyle Books, October 2015- by Camilla Plum- Photography by Anne-Li Engstrom)

Off to the Islands with Trinidadian Chicken from Caribbean Potluck (Kyle Books, May 2014) by Two Sisters and a Meal Suzanne Rousseau and Michelle Rousseau...

Trinidadian Chicken and Rice (Pelau)

Pelau will always remind us of our time living in Trinidad. This one-pot dish of chicken, rice, pigeon peas, coconut milk and vegetables is so good that you will keep eating it for days after it is made. This recipe calls for the quintessential “green seasoning” that is the basis of all Trini cooking; this amazing seasoning blend can be used as a marinade for many meats and as a flavor enhancer for many dishes.

This delicious recipe comes courtesy of our Trini friend Cree, who has saved our lives
with her incredible pelau on many occasions during Trinidad Carnival, when we roll in exhausted from a night of debaucherous behavior—and one too many glasses of rum. Thanks, Cree.

Serves 12

For the Trini-Style Green Seasoning

4 stalks scallion, chopped
1 bunch fresh thyme
2 bunches fresh chadon beni (culantro) or cilantro
1 bunch fresh parsley
12 cloves garlic, peeled
1 large yellow onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 Scotch bonnet (optional)
6 pimiento peppers
3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon ketchup
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (3-pound) chicken, cut into parts
2 cups dried pigeon peas
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 cups canned coconut milk
2 cups parboiled rice, washed and drained
3⁄4 cup chopped onions
1 cup peeled and chopped calabaza pumpkin
1⁄2 cup peeled and chopped carrots
1 whole Scotch bonnet
1⁄2 cup sliced scallions

Method

1 To make the Trini-style green seasoning, puree the scallions, thyme, chadon beni, parsley, garlic, onion, Scotch bonnet, pimiento peppers, vinegar and oil in a blender. Remove to a baking dish and season with salt and pepper.

2 Add the soy sauce, ketchup and 1 tablespoon of the oil to the green seasoning. Season with salt and pepper, add the chicken and set aside while you cook the peas.

3 In a small pot, cover the peas with salted water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 30 to 35 minutes, until the peas are cooked. Drain the peas and reserve the cooking liquid.

4 Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a pot on medium heat; when the oil is hot, sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the base of the pot. Let the sugar melt and when it starts to bubble, add the chicken and sear it, turning often, until browned and coated with the “burnt” sugar, about
8 minutes. Add the peas and stir. Add 1 cup of the reserved cooking liquid and the coconut milk and cook for about 30 minutes.

5 Stir in the rice and up to another cup of the reserved cooking liquid as needed and bring to a boil. Cook for about 5 minutes, then add the onions, pumpkin, carrots and Scotch bonnet. Season with salt and pepper and simmer until much of the liquid has evaporated, about 15 minutes. Cover
the pot and cook until all the liquid has evaporated, 30 to 40 minutes.

6 Serve garnished with the scallions.

(* Recipe excerpted from Caribbean Potluck by Suzanne Rousseau and Michelle Rousseau -Kyle Books, May 2014- Photography by Ellen Silverman- all rights reserved)

Looking for a variation on rice pudding, this Thai recipe from Amazing Grains (Kyle Books, US edition, February 2014) by Ghillie James delivers one.

Thai Sticky Rice with Mango

Serves 4

1/2 cup Thai sticky rice or glutinous rice
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup coconut cream
11/2 tablespoons palm sugar
or dark brown sugar
1 ripe mango, sliced

In Thailand, where I was lucky enough to be taught this simple recipe, they call this dessert Koa Niew Maoung. It is also made in the Philippines, but there it is mixed with malty Milo chocolate powder, called Champorado and eaten for breakfast. You don’t need to serve much as it is very creamy.

Place the rice, unrinsed, into a bowl with ²⁄3 cup cold water and leave to soak for 1–4 hours.

Put the rice and soaking water into a pan with another ²⁄3 cup cold water and the salt, cover with a lid and bring to a boil. As soon as the water is boiling, remove the lid and keep boiling for 6–7 minutes or until the water has nearly all evaporated. Return the lid and steam-cook over low heat for another
6 minutes, then leave to rest while you prepare the coconut.

Heat the coconut cream and sugar gently over low heat until the sugar has melted. Add to the cooked rice and stir together. Serve with plenty of sliced ripe mango.

(* Recipe from 'Amazing Grains'from classic to contemporary, wholesome recipes for every day by Ghillie James -Kyle Books, US edition, March 2014- Photographs by Jonathan Gregson- all rights reserved)

After Burrata with Roasted Cherries from A Mouthful of Stars (Andrews McMeel, May 2014) by Kim Sunee, we go from sweet to savory and an accidental recipes.

Bottoms Up Rice

Serves 4 to 6

WHEN I WAS FIRST ADOPTED, I would often forgo cookies and milk and ask instead for a snack of steamed rice with just a pat of butter. And ever since I could stand by my grandfather’s side and watch him cook, I’ve experimented with rice in all its forms. This is one of my favorite ways to offer the grain, both for flavor and presentation.

Some of the best dishes are the result of a beautiful blunder: Enter the French Tatin sisters and their famous upside-down apple tart. Once, I got distracted and forgot about a pot of rice on the stove and was pleasantly surprised to discover that with some modification, the mistake would soon become an oft-requested dish. This rice is delicious thanks to the golden crust that forms when cooking the grains a second time. This “golden bottom” goes by other names, including tadig, concolón, soccarat, and nurungji in Korean. I like shallots for the crust, but any thinly sliced white or yellow onion would also be good; it’s best not to enlist scallions for this adventure. Some Persian friends use thinly sliced potato, lettuce leaves, or even very slim slices of bread to create the lovely buried treasure. Layer the bottom as nicely as possible, since it will be the top of the dish once it’s turned out. The technique may seem difficult at first, but once you’ve made this rice several times, you’ll become addicted.

For color and flavor, toss in a few saffron threads that have soaked in warm water. I make this in a heavy-bottomed nonstick 10-inch skillet to make turning out the rice easier.

1¼ cups long-grain rice (preferably basmati or jasmine)
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¾ cup halved and thinly sliced shallots or yellow onion
Flaky finishing salt, for serving

1. Rinse the rice under running water several times, until the water is clear; drain.

2 Add the rinsed rice, 2¼ cups water, and the salt to a 10-inch nonstick skillet and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 14 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Empty the rice into a large bowl, draining any excess water. Wipe out the bottom of the pan with a paper towel. Heat the oil and butter in the skillet over medium-high heat until frothy. Add the shallots, stirring occasionally, and let cook for about 3 minutes. Spread the shallots in a single layer across the bottom of the skillet. Gently and evenly spread the rice over the shallots, smoothing the top with a rubber spatula or large spoon. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and cook on medium-high heat for 2 minutes. You want the heat high enough to crisp and toast the rice and shallot layer without burning it. Decrease the heat to the lowest setting and let steam, covered, for another 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the rice sit, covered, for another 5 minutes or so, until ready to serve.

3. To serve, carefully and swiftly turn the rice over onto a serving platter, like an upside-down cake, so that the golden side is bottoms up. Serve at once with a sprinkle of flaky finishing salt.

(* Recipe from A Mouthful of Stars: A Constellation of Favorite Recipes from My World Travels by Kim Sunee -published by Andrews McMeel, May 2014- photographs by Leela Cyd...all rights reserved)

All aboard for a taste of Japanese curry straight from pages of Japanese Soul Cooking(Ten Speed Press, November 2013) by Tadashi Ono of Maison O in New York and  Harris Salat of comfort food restaurant Ganso in Brooklyn and The Japanese Food Report...

BATTLESHIP CURRY

This is the curry served every Friday aboard the Japanese naval patrol ship Hachijo (see page 50), which we adapted for four, instead of four hundred! We love the curry creativity of Japanese navy cooks. Check out the ingredients in this version: cheese, honey, ketchup, a hit of strong coffee—the last one, we guess, to keep sailors extra alert when the Klaxon blares! When we cooked it up, we were surprised how tasty and complex it came out. The cheese melts into the curry, adding another layer of flavor, and thickening it, too. Add more pork if you like your curry meatier; Japanese cooks usually go lighter on the protein. And don’t forget, navy curry isn’t navy curry without salad on the side and a glass of milk (see page 50).

Serves 4, with leftovers

1 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into bite-size cubes

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 pound medium onions (about 3), peeled and coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

8 ounces carrots (about 2 medium carrots), cut rangiri style (see opposite)

5 cups torigara stock (page 25) or water

5 tablespoons curry powder

3 tablespoons tonkatsu sauce, store-bought or homemade (page 62)

2 tablespoons Japanese Worcestershire sauce (see page 234)

1⁄2 teaspoon ichimi togarashi (see page 235), or 1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne

2 teaspoons honey

2 tablespoons ketchup

2 medium Idaho potatoes (about 2⁄3 pound), peeled, cubed, and placed in bowl of water

1 tablespoon katakuriko (potato starch)

1 tablespoon water

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces)

1⁄2 cup grated mild Cheddar cheese (about
4 ounces)

1⁄2 cup brewed black coffee

Steamed rice, for serving

Season the pork with the salt and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper. Preheat a large pot over high heat. Add the oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add the pork. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes, until the exterior of the pork turns white. Add the onions, and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and carrots and cook and stir for 2 minutes more.

Add the stock to the pot. When the liquid boils, reduce the heat to low and add the curry powder, tonkatsu sauce, Worcestershire sauce, remaining 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, ichimi toragarshi, honey, and ketchup. Mix well to combine the seasonings. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes, mixing occasionally.

Add the potatoes to the pot, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. While the curry is simmering, mix together the katakuriko with the water in a small bowl.

Add the Parmesan cheese, Cheddar cheese, coffee, and katakuriko mixture to the pot. Simmer for 5 minutes more, mixing occasionally.

Serve with steamed white rice, a side salad (see below), and a glass of milk. 

Curry fires up Japanese Soul for Tokyo Thursdays # 276

(*Reprinted with permission from Japanese Soul Cooking by Tadashi Ono &  Harris Salat, copyright © 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. Food Photography: Todd Coleman © 2013")

Happy New Year, Bonne Annee 2014!

Making banana resolutions will we easy to stick to with these Banana Recipes we shared in past 13 months.

Start with Breakfast on a Budget, Peanut Butter and Banana Muffins or Cake from 'Cook on a Shoestring' (Kyle Books USA, September 2013) by Sophie Wright.

For lunch, have some Cuban Rice with Banana, Chicken and Eggs from 'The Perfectly Roasted Chicken' (Kyle Books, June 2013, paperback edition) by Mindy Fox .

For a treat Lush Fried Sesame Seed Bananas, Sweet Snack from Burma, Rivers of Flavor (Artisan Books, October 2012) by Naomi Duguid .

Kicking off 2014 with easy fare.

To get over your Turkey hangover, here's a recipe from Japanese Soul Cooking(Ten Speed Press, November 2013) by Tadashi Ono who recently opened Maison O in New York and  Harris Salat of comfort food restaurant Ganso in Brooklyn and The Japanese Food Report...

KANI ANKAKE (CRAB FRIED RICE) 

With this dish, the fried rice is cooked very simply, with just eggs and scallions. The mojo here comes in the form of the ankake, which is a sauce thickened with potato starch, in this case, one made with ginger-infused crabmeat. Glorious. To eat, spoon up some ankake with the fried rice. 

Serves 4 

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

4 eggs, beaten

2 scallions (about 2 ounces), trimmed and chopped

4 cups cooked rice, warm, clumps broken up

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon salt

Pinch ground black pepper 

ANKAKE

8 ounces crabmeat (canned is fine, about 1 cup)

1 cup torigara stock (page 25)

4 ounces iceberg lettuce leaves, cut into bite-size pieces

1 (1⁄2-inch) piece ginger (about 0.3 ounce), peeled and julienned

1 teaspoon salt

1⁄4 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 teaspoons katakuriko (potato starch) dissolved in 2 tablespoons water 

Heat 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil in a wok over high heat. Add the eggs and gently scramble until set, about 10 seconds. Remove the eggs and set aside. 

Heat 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil in a wok over high heat. Add the scallions and cook, stirring constantly, for about 30 seconds, until they give off an oniony smell. Add the rice, and cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds more. Add the soy sauce, salt, pepper, and cooked eggs. Cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon sesame oil, and cook, stirring constantly, for 10 more seconds. Turn off the heat. 

Arrange 4 plates on a work surface, and ready 4 small bowls to serve as molds (rice bowls are ideal). Spoon one-fourth of the cooked rice into a bowl, then quickly flip the bowl over, and rest it on top of the plate rice side down. Do not remove the bowl for now; it will keep the rice warm. Repeat with the remaining 3 bowls. Set aside. 

To prepare the ankake, add the crab, torigara stock, lettuce, ginger, salt, and pepper to a saucepan and bring to a boil over heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for about 2 minutes, mixing occasionally. Add the katakuriko mixture, and cook, stirring constantly, for about 15 seconds. Turn off the heat. 

Unmold the rice by removing the bowls covering it. Pour about one-fourth of the ankake either alongside each serving of rice or over it, as you desire. Serve immediately.

(*Reprinted with permission from Japanese Soul Cooking by Tadashi Ono &  Harris Salat, copyright © 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. Food Photography: Todd Coleman © 2013")

First taste of The Perfectly Roasted Chicken (Kyle Books, June 2013, paperback edition) by  Mindy Fox    was Curried Chicken Salad with Golden Raisins, Lime and Honey let's move from India to Cuba.

Cuban Rice with Chicken

Serves 4

Some say this dish is from Cuba, others claim Spain. Either way, it’s one of the best brunches I know. The combination of sweet (from the skillet-cooked banana) and savory (chicken, rice, tomato sauce, and egg) may seem unusual, but, in fact, it works brilliantly. Serve this with a pot of café con leche. 

1 cup long-grain white rice

Fine sea salt

1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)

1 garlic clove, peeled

Sugar (optional)

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin

olive oil

2 large scallions, or 4 skinny ones, trimmed

and thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

Heaping 1/8 teaspoon ground cumin

11/2 cups small shreds roast chicken

2 large firm-ripe bananas

4 large eggs 

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the rice and 1/2 teaspoon salt, reduce to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Let the rice sit, uncovered for 5 minutes, then fluff with a fork. 

Drain the tomatoes, reserving the juices for another use. Combine the tomatoes and garlic in a blender and purée until the salsa is smooth. Add a pinch of sugar to sweeten, if desired. 

In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add the scallions, oregano, and cumin. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute, then add the chicken and a pinch of salt, stir well, and cook for 1 minute more. Add to the rice and stir to combine. Adjust the seasoning, then cover to keep warm. 

Peel the bananas and cut them in half crosswise, then cut again in half  lengthwise. Wipe the skillet dry with a paper towel, then add 2 teaspoons oil and heat over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the banana pieces, flat-side down, and cook until browned, 2 to 3 minutes, then turn and cook for 30 seconds more. Transfer to a plate. 

Wipe the skillet dry and fry the eggs in the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper. 

Spoon the rice onto 4 individual plates and top each with an egg. Serve with the bananas and salsa.

(* Recipe from 'The Perfectly Roasted Chicken' by Mindy Fox, published by Kyle Books, June 2013- photography by Ellen Silverman)

Once in a while, i revisit books I received in past few months and see flavors and recipes I failed to mention.

In this case, my focus was on finding a relatively quick and easy dish.

Here's a good fit from Seoultown Kitchen (Kyle Books, Fall 2011) by Debbie Lee that gives you a chance to add Korean flavor to lunch or dinner.

Kimchee Fried Rice:

There are two things that I always want when I’m in a Korean pub: One is Korean fried chicken and the other is kimchee fried rice. It is the ultimate bar food and is great with a cold beer or a bottle of chilled soju. The spicy flavor of this quintessential fried rice melds perfectly with the sweetness of the twice-fried pork belly and the creamy texture of the fried egg yolk. It’s the best thing to make with surplus rice and kimchee. If you don’t have pork belly, I suggest using bacon, hot dogs, or even Spam.

Serves: 4

Prep time: 15 Minutes

Cook time: 20 Minutes

1/4 pound pork belly, skin off, cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup mirin

Sea salt and white pepper to taste

2 tablespoons sesame oil, for frying

2 cups kimchee, julienned

1/4 cup Korean peppers (gochu), sliced into rings

4 cups cooked Calrose rice, chilled

1/4 cup kimchee juice, poured from a kimchee jar

1/4 cup chopped scallions

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 eggs

1 tablespoon roasted and salted sesame seeds, for garnish

1 In a medium mixing bowl, combine the pork belly, soy sauce, and mirin.

Season with salt and white pepper. Set aside.

2 Heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the pork belly for 3 to 4 minutes on each side until the marinade caramelizes on the meat. Set the skillet aside, letting the pork continue to cook off the heat for about 10 minutes. Slice crosswise into 1/4-inch strips and transfer to a bowl.

3 Heat a wok or large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sesame oil and warm for 1 minute. Add the reserved pork belly, kimchee, and Korean peppers and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly.

4 Add the rice and break it up with the back of a wok ladle, tossing constantly to prevent it from sticking to the wok. Add the kimchee juice and scallions, and season with salt and white pepper. Remove from the heat and set aside.

5 Heat another nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add the vegetable oil and warm for 1 minute. Crack the eggs into the pan and cook sunny side up until done. Season with salt and white pepper.

6 Place a mound of fried rice on 4 separate plates and top each mound with a fried egg. Garnish with the sesame seeds and serve immediately.

(* Recipe from Seoultown Kitchen by Debbie Lee- published by Kyle Books, Fall 2011- all rights reserved...Photos by Quentin Bacon)