Grated Horseradish and Ikura Topping, Boquerones Toasts from 'A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus!'

After La Cale style Mussels in Cider from  A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus, Menus and Stories (Sasquatch Books, September 2014) by Renee Erickson, here's what could become your top hit for 2014 holiday parties.

Boquerones Toasts

Butter, fresh horseradish, ikura

Prep Time: 15 Minutes // Total Time: 15 Minutes, plus time to make toasts // Makes 24 

While most American or Italian flat-packed anchovies are simply cooked and packed in oil, boquerones, Spanish white anchovies, are usually vinegar-pickled before their olive oil bath. They have a mild, tangy flavor and a fluffier texture than regular anchovies. Laid out on a bed of butter and topped with freshly grated horseradish and a pile of ikura, or salmon roe, they make an excel- lent appetizer that requires very little actual preparation. These are the creation of Eli Dahlin, the original chef at The Walrus and the Carpenter, and appear often on the menu there. 

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cold

2 dozen Baguette Toasts (see below)

24 deboned, filleted oil-packed boquerones (from a 7-ounce package), drained

1/3 cup freshly grated horseradish, from a 4-inch piece

3 tablespoons ikura (salmon roe) 

Boquerones_BWW

Just before serving, use a cheese grater or vegetable peeler (or a sharp knife) to shave the butter into 1⁄8-inch-thick slices. Cover each piece of toast with butter shavings (they will look like cheese slices), then top each with 1 fish (2 joined fillets), a big pinch (about ½ teaspoon) of the horseradish, and a tiny pile (a heaping ¼ teaspoon) of ikura. Serve immediately. 

Baguette Toasts 

Prep Time: 10 Minutes // Total Time: 30 Minutes // Makes about 3 dozen 

Sliced and drizzled with olive oil, then baked, simple baguette toasts are a staple in my kitchens. 

1 baguette (about 3⁄4 pound)

1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon or Jacobsen. for finishing 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. 

Using a large serrated knife, cut the bread diagonally into ½-inch slices. Arrange the slices on 2 large baking sheets, brush with the olive oil, sprinkle with salt to taste, and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the toasts are blonde and crisp, rotating the pans once or twice during baking. (Toward the end of baking, if the toasts aren’t cooking at the same rate, remove the browned ones so you can let the others continue baking.) 

Serve immediately, or let cool on a cooling rack and serve within a few hours.

(* Recipe reproduced with permission from A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus, Menus and Stories -Sasquatch Books, September 2014-  by Renee Erickson with Jess Thompson- Photographs by Jim Henkens)


La Cale style Mussels in Cider from Renee Erickson 'A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus'

Here's a soul warmer of an appetizer from A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus, Menus and Stories (Sasquatch Books, September 2014) by Renee Erickson, a Seattle based chef and restaurateur.

Mussels in Cider

Dijon, crème fraîche, tarragon

Prep Time: 30 Minutes // Total Time: 30 Minutes // Serves 8

In Blainville-sur-Mer, a tiny town on Normandy’s Cotentin Peninsula, there’s a quirky little restaurant called La Cale, whose official street address is “La Plage,” or, simply, “the beach.” It overlooks the tidal flats that stretch five kilometers into the sea—an area that accounts for more than 10 percent of France’s oyster production—but at high tide, when all traces of aquaculture disappear, it’s simply a beachfront bistro with a few legs of lamb on an open hearth. It’s homey, complete with picnic tables and a “serve yourself ” rule that explains why patrons cut their own bread, fetch their own water, and choose their own wine from a shelf next to the bar. The rule does not explain why the room is adorned in giant needlepoints of various nudes, both male and female, but the artworks add a je ne sais quoi that I’d miss if I returned to find them replaced with something more modest.

When you order mussels there, they come in the pot they were cooked in, steamed in cider and topped with a generous dollop of crème fraîche, which whoever has thought to grab a ladle gets to stir into them just before serving. This recipe is similar. And as you do at La Cale, you should eat a small mussel first, then use its shell as a utensil to pry the mussels out of the remaining shells.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large shallots, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
3 cups dry hard cider
3 pounds mussels, cleaned and debearded
Freshly squeezed lemon juice, for seasoning
Kosher salt
¾ cup crème fraîche
½ cup loosely packed whole tarragon leaves (no stems)
Crusty bread, for serving

Mussels in Cider

In a large, high-sided saucepan or soup pot, melt the butter over medium-low heat. When the butter has melted, add the shallots and cook, stirring, until the shallots are soft, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the mustard, add the cider, then increase the heat to medium-high.

Add the mussels and cook, covered, until they begin to open, about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and begin transferring the mussels that have cooked to a large bowl, stirring and prodding until all the mussels have opened and have been transferred to the bowl. (Discard any mussels that do not open.)

Increase the heat to high and simmer the cider for 3 minutes, or until it has reduced by about a third. Season the liquid to taste with lemon juice and salt, then reduce the heat to low. Return the mussels to the pot, add the crème fraîche and tarragon, and stir gently until the mussels are warmed through and coated with the cream.

Serve immediately, with the bread.

(* Recipe reproduced with permission from A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus, Menus and Stories -Sasquatch Books, September 2014-  by Renee Erickson with Jess Thompson- Photographs by Jim Henkens)


Catch of the Day, September 26, Fishy Fridays with Bart van Olphen on Jamie Oliver's Food Tube

Catch of the Day, September 26, 2014 marks the opening day for Fishy Fridays with Amsterdam based sustainable fishmonger Bart van Olphen on Jamie Oliver's Food Tube...

Jamie Oliver decided to ask Bart to join his Food Tube on You Tube after he got a taste of Bart's 15 seconds BartFishTales on Instagram.

  

Starting on Friday September 26, Bart will present on a weekly basis, videos in which sustainable fish plays a prominent role, with goal of showing how much fun it is to work with fish.


Beer Essence, Steamed Fish with IPA and Pineapple Salsa from Beer and Food

Your first taste of Beer and Food ( Ryland Peters & Small, Dog & Bone imprint, Spring 2014) Mark Dredge of Pencil and Spoon was a Rhubarb and Raspberry Framboise Fool...

Here's something with a beer essence.

Steamed Fish with IPA and Pineapple Salsa

This dish uses IPA and a mix of fruity, spicy ingredients to steam a piece of white fish. It then serves a pieapple salsa on the side, which is made with the same  IPA- It's best served in soft tacos or tortillas with some chopped avocado on top. The fish recipe is per person with the filet being wrapped in individual foil parcels.  

For the IPA and Pineapple Salsa:

¼ of a fresh pineapple, chopped into small pieces
1 green chili pepper, deseeded and finely chopped
Juice of 1 lime
1 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp salt
A handful of cilantro (coriander) leaves, finely chopped
2 tbsp (30ml) IPA

For the Steamed Fish

1 fillet white fish (such as cod or haddock)
Juice of ½ an orange, plus 1 thick slice of orange
2 garlic cloves
½ fresh chili pepper, deseeded and finely chopped
1 in (2cm) piece of fresh ginger, chopped into matchsticks
1 star anise
A few cilantro (coriander) leaves
1 tsp clear honey
1 tsp soy sauce
2 tbsp (30ml) IPA

Serves 1

Steamed Fish with IPA

1 The salsa is best made an hour or two before you eat. To make the salsa, mix all the ingredients together apart from the beer and then leave in the refrigerator until you are ready to serve. Add the
beer to the salsa just before serving—this ensures that you get the maximum amount of beer flavor and fragrance.

2 To steam the fish, preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/Gas 6. Put all the steamed-fish ingredients on top of a piece of aluminum foil and wrap them up until you have a neat parcel. (I recommend doublewrapping for this: simply take two sheets of foil and fold up the edges to create a parcel.) Place the parcel on a baking tray and cook for 25–30 minutes. Remove the fish from the parcel when you’re ready to serve.

3 To serve, I like to put the fish in some soft tacos, spoon over the salsa, and then add some chopped avocado. It’s great with a glass of IPA.

(*Recipe reproduced with permission from Beer and Food by Mark Dredge- Ryland Peters & Small, Dog & Bone imprint, Spring 2014- Food photography: William Lingwood)


Cucumber Basil Sparkler opens Salad Buffet for a Hot Day from 'Foods for Health'

With Foods for Health (National Geographic books - September 9, 2014) chef and author Barton Seaver and nutritionist P.K. Newby want to help us 'choose and use the very best foods for our family and our planet.'

Divided in chapters that cover vegetables, fruits, proteins (almonds to beef to shrimp to yogurt), whole grains, fats and oils (fats are essential to good health), beverages (beer and spirits to tea), and finally seasonings, Foods for Health also offers seasonal menus including salad buffet below.

Summer’s Bounty, A SALAD BUFFET FOR A HOT DAY

Menu by P. K. Newby

From colorful squashes and lettuces to luscious berries and stone fruit, I can make almost my entire supper from local produce during the height of summer. Below is selection of favorites I might serve as part of an evening buffet on a balmy day. (Can you tell I eat a lot of salad?)

CUCUMBER BASIL SPARKLER APERITIF

Mix pureed cucumbers. Keep the skin for fiber and color-with fresh lime juice, basil simple syrup, and sparkling water for a  flavorful, pretty drink. For an alcoholic version, substitute gin.

WARM SCALLOP SALAD WITH GRILLED PEACHES AND BABY CHARD STARTER

Grilled peaches are sublime in summer (and make a terrific dessert). Plate with seared sea scallops and baby chard and dress with a peach vinaigrette for a salad that is as lovely as it is nutritious.

Foods_for_Health_front cover

CORN SALAD WITH SUN GOLD CHERRY TOMATOES 

CORN SALAD
Top thinly sliced squash with a mixture of sun gold cherry tomatoes, corn, white onion, and parsley dressed with olive oil, white balsamic vinegar, and garlic. Summer on a plate, made even more divine with a scattering of chèvre.

HERBED QUINOA SALAD WITH BLUEBERRIES AND PIGNOLIS

GRAIN SALAD
Toss a selection of lettuces and herbs together with quinoa, blueberries, and toasted pine nuts for a dinner salad that won't leave you wanting. Dress with a lemon-herb vinaigrette, or keep it simple
with oil and vinegar .

POACHED RHUBARB AND BLACKBERRIES WITH MASCARPONE 

DESSERT
I put these together when I found both at the market one spring day. Poached in port, orange peel, and spices and topped with a dollop of mascarpone, this is a wonderful dessert that can be served at room temperature.

(* Menu created by P. K. Newby from Foods for Health by Barton Seaver and P. K. Newby- published by National Geographic; September 9, 2014)


Camping Recipes from Hot Dog Goulash to Newspaper Fish plus How to Pitch Your Tent

Summer is still in full swing especially in Europe where many businesses close their door in August.

For those of you who go camping while vacationing here are a few recipes.

Back in 2011, I shared this Outdoorsy Version of Bangers and Mash, a Hot Dog Goulash from The Camping Cookbook (Kyle Books) by Annie Bell.

Hotdoggoulash

Also in 2011, I served this Newspaper Fish for Dinner, Mackerel, Trout, Recipe from The Scandinavian Kitchen (Kyle Books) by Camilla Plum.

Newspaper fish

In her 2007 book Let's Get Primitive, Heather  Menicucci offers tips on where to pitch your tent from 1 to 3 hours away from 40 major US cities.

Check her How to Camp video.

If you want some creature comfort Discover 'The Freedom to Sleep around' with 'Escape' Camper Vans in New Zealand.


Brings back Memories of Brittany Coast or Marseille, Fish Stew with Gremolata from Fresh and Light

When i see a fish stew dish or recipe, it brings back memories of Cotriade from my native Brittany or Bouillabaisse from Marseille.

Even though today's recipe from Fresh and Light (Harper 360, 2014, US edition), by Donna Hay, has links to Milan.

Next print run should correct typo in eschalots (French shallots) to echalotes.

FISH STEW with GREMOLATA

1 teaspoon olive oil
4 eschalots (French shallots), peeled and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes
750ml fish stock
1 x 400g can cherry tomatoes
750g firm white fish fillets, skin off, cut into large cubes
16 clams (vongole), cleaned
sea salt and cracked black pepper
. cup flat-leaf parsley laves
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon rind

Fish Stew with Gremolata image_HAY

Heat a deep frying pan over medium–high heat. Add the oil, eschalots, garlic and chilli and cook for 2 minutes or until soft.

Add the stock and tomatoes and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the fish, clams, salt and pepper and cook for 5 minutes or until cooked through and the clams have opened. Divide the soup between bowls and top with the parsley and lemon rind to serve.

SERVES 4

(* Reproduced with permission from Fresh and Light by Donna Hay, US edition published by Harper 360, 2014- Photography byWilliam Meppem)


Pickle Sunday Brunch with Hot Pickled Pineapple and Peanuts from 'Asian Pickles'

Pickle your Sunday Brunch with Hot Pickled Pineapple and Peanuts from Asian Pickles (Ten Speed Press, June 2014) by Karen Solomon...

Pickling fruit is a frontier in a world of vegetable dominance, but pineapple is one of the best of the sweet fruits for the job: it’s firm, naturally acidic, and sweet. And peanuts (or any kind of nut, really) also play nicely in the pickle bath, lending a bit of heft and chew, and plumping up all pretty-like in the jar. The chile just brings it all together, and its red flecks pop against the yellow fruit. Serve this as an appetizer or a side dish, and keep this recipe in mind when you can’t eat a whole pineapple straight away. Note that if you must, you can substitute drained canned pineapple chunks, but fresh is really much better.

HOT PICKLED PINEAPPLE AND PEANUTS

• TIME: ABOUT 1 and 1/2 HOURS • MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS •

1⁄2 cup raw peanuts
1 clove garlic
11⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons chile sauce, such as Fermented “Cock Sauce” (page 156)
2 teaspoons anchovy paste
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1⁄2 cup distilled white vinegar
11⁄2 cups chopped fresh pineapple, in 1-inch cubes

Hot pickled pineapple

Place the peanuts in a small skillet over medium heat. Scorch them, shaking the pan, for about 5 minutes, until blackened in spots. Set aside to cool.

Finely mince the garlic or put it through a press. In a large wood, glass, or ceramic bowl (plastic will scratch and retain odors), combine the garlic with the salt. Use the back of a sturdy spoon to mash the garlic and salt together into a paste. It will take a couple of minutes to get it smooth. (Of course, if you have a mortar and pestle, you can use that instead.) Stir in the chile sauce, anchovy paste, and fish sauce until well combined. Stream in the vinegar and mix well.

Add the peanuts and pineapple and mix to coat completely, then spoon everything into a 1-pint jar. Don’t worry if there isn't enough brine to cover; the fruit will yield more of its juice as it sits. Cover tightly and let it sit for at least 1 hour before eating. This pickle, stored in the refrigerator,
will continue to be delicious for 2 weeks.

(* Reprinted with permission from Asian Pickles by Karen Solomon, copyright (c) 2014. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Penguin Random House, Inc. Photography (c) 2014 by Jennifer Martine...)


Head Spinning Conchas Borrachas, Drunken Scallops from Ceviche by Martin Morales

A number of years ago, a well traveled Ecuadorian told me that in his opinion Peruvian cuisine was the most varied and interesting cuisine in Latin America.

With Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, May 27, 2014), Martin Morales, owner of Ceviche and Andina restaurants in London proves the point.

Let's start with Martin's version of scallops sashimi.

CONCHAS BORRACHAS
DRUNKEN SCALLOPS

I have always been a huge fan of scallop sashimi. After experimenting with various flavor combinations through trial and error, this scallop dish was born. It’s one of the prettiest, most delicate, and most loved dishes on our menu.

SERVES 4

12 large sea scallops, each cut horizontally into 3 thin slices
2 limes, cut in half
Seeds from 1/2 pomegranate
1 limo chile, seeded and finely chopped
2 tbsp pisco (or a good-quality vodka)
4 tbsp Cilantro Oil
A small handful of freshly torn cilantro leaves or micro cilantro
Fine sea salt

CPKT Conchas Borrachas - Drunken Scallops image p 21

Arrange the slices of scallop on individual serving plates. Don’t worry if you have to overlap them slightly.

Sprinkle some salt over them and squeeze half a lime over each plate.

Sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds and chile and then drizzle over a few drops of pisco and the Cilantro Oil.

Decorate with torn cilantro and serve straightaway.

NOTE

Rather than serving on a plate, you can serve these scallops on clean scallop shells.

CILANTRO OIL

We use this a lot in the Ceviche kitchen. If you love cilantro, it’s worth making a large batch, as it will keep in the fridge for around a month.

Put 1 small bunch of fresh cilantro (leaves and stalks) in a saucepan with a scant 1/2 cup / 100 ml vegetable oil and set over medium heat.

Heat gently for 5 minutes, without boiling, to let the cilantro wilt. Take off the heat and leave to cool.

Transfer the cilantro and oil to a food processor or blender and blitz until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve and decant into a sterilized bottle (see page 227).

Store in a cool, darkplace. Makes a scant 1/2 cup / 100 ml.

(* “Reprinted with permission from Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen by Martin Morales -Ten Speed Press, © 2014- Photo credit: Paul Winch-Furness) 


Scent of Green Papaya Salad from Thailand : The Cookbook by Jean-Pierre Gabriel

Add color and new flavors to your daily menu with Thailand: The Cookbook (Phaidon Press, May 2014) by Jean-Pierre Gabriel, photographer and food writer.

On author and project:

"Jean-Pierre Gabriel has spent over three years visiting every region of Thailand to collate and photograph this unique collection of recipes from authentic Thai cooks. During his travels Jean-Pierre has visited Thai homes, markets and restaurants to sample delicacies that vary from simple street food to elaborate palace cuisine and bring them together in this unique volume." 

The book offers "500 recipes ranging from simple snacks and drinks to curries, stir-fries, and elaborate desserts". Thailand: The Cookbook also includes essays on history of Thai Food and regional differences.

Here's a first taste:

Green Papaya Salad

Adapted from THAILAND: THE COOKBOOK by Jean-Pierre Gabriel

Origin: Northeast

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

Serves: 2

INGREDIENTS

 3 bird’s eye chiles
 5 cloves garlic
 1 yard-long bean, cut into 1½ - inch/4 - cm lengths
 2 tomatoes, cut into small pieces
 1 tablespoon jaggery, palm sugar, or soft light brown sugar
 1 tablespoon roasted peanuts
 1 tablespoon dried shrimp
 1 tablespoon lime juice
 2 limes, cut into wedges
 1 tablespoon fish sauce
 ⅔ cup (4 oz./120 g) julienned green papaya
 Grilled Chicken (see p. 276)

Green papaya salad

INSTRUCTIONS

Pound the chiles and garlic together in a mortar with a pestle, then add the beans and lightly crush. Add the tomato, sugar, roasted peanuts, dried shrimp, lime juice, lime wedges, and fish sauce to the mortar and gently mix together unto the sugar has dissolves. Add the papaya and mix together. Serve either on its own or with grilled chicken.

While many articles describe Jean-Pierre Gabriel as a French author he seems to hail from Belgium and have studied agronomy before a career in food writing and photography.

(* Recipe reproduced with permission from Thailand: the Cookbook by Jean-Pierre Gabriel- published by Phaidon Press, May 2014)