This delicate treat from Smashing Plates (Kyle Books USA, April 2014) by Maria Elia is calling to be devoured.

Almond, rose water, and chocolate mallomar chimneys

Mallomar chimneys are one of my favorite treats! Making them can take a bit of mastering, though, so this is a simplified version.

I’ve flavored the marshmallow with rose water and used an almond cookie for the base, but there are many variations you could try, including those I’ve suggested below.

Variations: Omit the rose water and flavor with some ground cinnamon and coffee; or use a
little orange flower water or star anise and orange to flavor the marshmallow.

Makes 16

For the cookie base:

1/4 cup superfine sugar
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons milk
1 cup almond flour
3/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
a pinch of salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
For the marshmallow:
3 free-range egg whites
3/4 cup superfine sugar
2 tablespoons corn syrup
a pinch of salt
2 tablespoons rose water, or a few drops of rose essence*
18 whole almonds (skin on), finely chopped in a food processor
101/2oz dark chocolate, 70 percent cocoa solids, broken into pieces

Start by making the cookie base. Cream the sugar and butter together until pale. Slowly add the milk, and don’t panic if it looks like a curdled mess. Sift in the remaining ingredients and stir to
form a dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 30 minutes to firm up.

Preheat the oven to 325 F.

Put the dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out to about 1/4in thick. Cut into rounds measuring about 23/4in in diameter.

Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and refrigerate for 10 minutes. (You can chill them overnight, or even freeze them, if preparing in advance.)

Bake the cookies for about 15 minutes, until firm and golden, then cool on a wire rack.

Meanwhile, make the marshmallow. Put all of the ingredients except the almonds and chocolate in a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, making sure that the bowl and water don’t come into contact. Whisk by hand or with an electric mixer continuously for about 15 minutes, until the mixture has doubled in size and forms stiff peaks. Fold in the chopped almonds and spoon the marshmallow into a piping bag and set aside.

Put the chocolate in a bowl over simmering water, again making sure the bowl and water don’t touch, until melted and smooth. Dip one side of each of the cooled cookies into the chocolate and place on a wire rack to set.

Make a small cut in the piping bag and pipe spiral marshmallow “chimneys” about 21/2in tall on top of each cookie. Let the teacakes set in a cool place for about 10 minutes and then nappe (coat) each
with the melted chocolate (you may need to re-melt it a little). Let the chocolate set for around 5–10 minutes before serving—if you can wait that long!

* Rose essence is more highly flavored than rose water, so just a few drops equals the strength
of a tablespoon of rose water. Use with care—too much, and you’ll end up with a teacake that tastes
like moisturizer! Taste as you go—you can always add, but you can’t take away.

(* Recipe excerpted from Smashing Plates by Maria Elia -Kyle Books USA, April 2014- Photography by Jenny Zarins, all rights reserved)

Put a little passion in your say

Before i try my luck at interviewing Greg Marchand in French of course, here's a sinful treat from his new cookbook Frenchie: New Bistro Cooking (Artisan Books, April 2014)...

Chocolate and Passion Fruit Pots de Crème with Lychees and Candied Ginger

4 servings

For the Passion Fruit Caramel:

½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
Generous 2 tablespoons heavy cream
Generous 2 tablespoons unsweetened passion fruit juice
Scant 2 tablespoons (25 grams)
salted butter

For the Candied Ginger:

3½ ounces (100 grams) fresh ginger
1¼ cups (300 ml.) water
Scant ½ cup (110 ml.) honey
Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste

For the Chocolate Pots de Crème:

4½ ounces (125 grams)
65% bittersweet chocolate
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (200 ml.)
heavy cream
½ cup (125 ml.) whole milk
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
3 large egg yolks, beaten
12 lychees

The Passion Fruit Caramel:

Combine the sugar with the water in a small heavy nonreactive saucepan and heat over medium heat,
stirring just until the sugar dissolves, then cook, swirling the pan for even cooking, until you have a golden brown caramel. Remove from the heat and add the cream and passion fruit juice (be careful—the hot caramel will spatter) and whisk vigorously. Gradually add the butter, whisking until completely
incorporated. Let cool, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

The Candied Ginger:

Meanwhile, peel the ginger and dice it into 1⁄8-inch cubes.
Bring the water and honey to a boil in a small heavy saucepan. Add the ginger and cook over low heat,
adding a little water if necessary, until the ginger is translucent and the syrup has reduced to a glaze,
about 11⁄2 hours. Stir in the lemon juice, and reserve in the refrigerator. (The ginger will keep for several weeks.)

The Chocolate Pots de Crème:

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

Finely chop the chocolate and put it in a medium bowl. Combine the cream, milk, and sugar in a small
saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour over the chocolate and let stand for 30
seconds to melt it, then stir with a heatproof spatula until smooth. Let cool slightly, then add the egg yolks and stir until smooth.

Pour the mixture into four 4-ounce ramekins. Put the ramekins in a baking dish and add enough warm
water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 28 to 30
minutes. The pots are done when they are firm to the touch but still jiggle when gently shaken. Remove
from the water bath and let cool. (It is best not to put the pots de crème in the refrigerator: set aside at room temperature and serve the same day.)

Finishing Touches:

Peel the lychees and remove the seeds.

Put the pots de crème on serving plates and place a tablespoon of caramel, a teaspoon of candied ginger, and some lychees on each one.

( “Excerpted from Frenchie: New Bistro Cooking by Greg Marchand (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2014. Photographs by Djamel Dine Zitout)

After Chile Lime Coconut Macaroons from Sweet Cravings: 50 Seductive Desserts for a Gluten-Free Lifestyle by Kyra Bussanich (Ten Speed Press, © 2013), here's a more standard tune.

Classic Cream Puffs

Intermediate

Makes 36 cream puffs

I got the idea for gluten-free cream puffs from my friend and mentor Laura Russell, who writes the gluten-free column for the Oregonian. She came up with a tapioca-based recipe for Brazilian cheese puffs, and the dough base reminded me of the pâté à choux used for traditional cream puffs, except that it’s much easier to make. The pastry cream can be made up to 5 days in advance: simply keep in an airtight container or wrap well with plastic wrap directly on the cream to keep a skin from forming. The puffs can be baked up to a week ahead and frozen in an airtight container. Make sure you poke the hole in the bottom, sticking your pinky in to clear the way for the filling, before you freeze them. Then, just reheat the puffs at 350°F for 6 to 10 minutes. The assembled puffs can also be frozen in an airtight container, but they will soften quite a bit. Thaw them at room temperature for about 2 hours before you plan to serve them.

Pastry Cream

2 cups / 454 ml whole milk
1/2 cup / 113 g sugar
4 egg yolks
1/3 cup / 51 g cornstarch
2 tablespoons / 28 g butter
2 teaspoons / 10 g vanilla bean paste or extract

Puff Dough

2 cups / 454 ml whole milk
2/3 cup / 147 g canola oil
4 cups / 521 g tapioca starch
6 eggs
1 tablespoon / 14 g vanilla extract
Pinch / .5 g salt

Chocolate Glaze

1 1/2 cups / 263 g best-quality dark chocolate
1/4 cup / 57 g butter
1/4 cup / 59 g heavy cream

To make the pastry cream, line a baking pan with heatproof plastic wrap and set aside. Place the milk and 1/4 cup of the sugar in a saucepan and scald the milk (heat to the point where it is steaming and the edges look like it is about to boil but is not yet bubbling). Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cornstarch, and the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar until smooth. Once the milk is scalded, whisk the egg mixture vigorously while very slowly pouring in the milk in a steady stream. Then pour the mixture back into the saucepan and return to medium-high heat. Whisk constantly while heating to ensure that no lumps form. Bring to a boil and, whisking constantly, continue to let boil for 90 seconds.

Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla bean paste until well blended.

Pour the pastry cream into the plastic wrap–lined pan and cover the entire surface of the cream with additional plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming. Chill 30 to 60 minutes.

To make the puff dough, preheat the oven to 350°F. Set aside two mini muffin pans and leave them ungreased.

Pour the milk and oil into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, put the tapioca starch in the mixing bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle attachment. When the milk mixture comes to a boil, turn the mixer on medium speed and slowly pour the milk into the tapioca. Turn to high and add the eggs, one at a time, and blend thoroughly, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Mix in the vanilla and salt.

Evenly fill 36 muffin cups two-thirds full. Bake until puffed and golden brown and hard to the touch, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, remove the plastic wrap from the pastry cream and place the cream in a bowl. Whisk to soften and smooth the texture. Spoon the cream into a pastry bag fitted with a #802 round piping tip. (Normally, I advocate using a ziplock bag if you don’t have a pastry bag, but in this instance, the ziplock is likely to split along the seam.) Then refrigerate. Once cool to the touch, pop the puffs out of the pan. (If you can’t get the puffs to easily pop out, or if they begin deflating as they cool, put them back in the oven for 5 to 10 minutes so they finish baking and crisp up.) Take a pointed paring knife and carefully cut a small round hole in the bottom of each puff. To fill the cream puffs, insert the piping tip of the bag of pastry cream partway into the bottom of each puff and gently squeeze. 

To make the chocolate glaze, melt the chocolate over a double boiler or in a microwave-safe bowl. If using the microwave, heat in 30-second intervals, stirring between each. Stir the butter and cream into the melted chocolate until well blended.

Dip the top of each cream puff in the chocolate glaze, turn right side up, and place directly on a serving platter. 

Shortcut

To cut down on preparation time, you can use a gluten-free vanilla pudding mix, cooked according to directions. Please do not use an instant mix: the scalded milk is an important flavor enhancer and tastes so much better!

(* Reprinted with permission from Sweet Cravings: 50 Seductive Desserts for a Gluten-Free Lifestyle by Kyra Bussanich -Ten Speed Press, © 2013- Photo Credit: Leela Cyd)

I had previously shared Guinness and Beef Stew from Clodagh's Kitchen Diaries (Kyle Books USA, March 2013) by Clodagh McKenna. 

Here's the sweet side of Clodagh for St. Patrick's Day

Mini Guinness

This mousse is light and fluffy yet rich thanks to the good quality chocolate.
I suggest that you use chocolate that has 70 percent cocoa solids.

Makes 12 shot glasses

7 oz good-quality chocolate
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon superfine sugar
4 eggs, separated
1/2 cup good-quality strong espresso coffee, cold

To serve

1 cup whipped heavy cream
grated chocolate or chocolate-coated coffee beans

Break the chocolate into a heatproof bowl suspended over a saucepan of simmering water. Melt the
chocolate, stirring often to make sure that no lumps form.
Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the cream, sugar, egg yolks, and coffee.
In a clean bowl whisk the eggs whites until stiff peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate
mixture. Pour the chocolate mixture into individual shot glasses and put in the fridge for 1 hour or until
they are set.
Before serving top with whipped heavy cream and decorate with a grating of chocolate or chocolate-coated coffee beans.

TIPS

Mini Guinness can be made ahead and stored in the fridge for 24 hours.

You could use espresso cups, china tea cups or martini glasses.
There are lots of variations you can try: omit the espresso coffee and fold in raspberries, or 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, or the juice and zest of 1 orange.

(* Recipe reproduced from Clodagh's Kitchen Diaries by Clodagh McKenna -Kyle Books USA, March 2013, all rights reserved)

Take heart, there's more to Sweet (Artisan Books, October 2013) by Valerie Gordon of Valerie Confections (Los Angeles) than her Valentine's Pie...

Her Matcha flavored cakes sounded perfect for today's Tokyo Thursdays

Matcha Mini-Cakes with Lemon Verbena Ganache

Makes Eight 3-inch Square Mini-Cakes

Lemon verbena is a perennial herb that imparts the bright flavor of lemon without the acidity. The combination of lemon and green tea tastes light, refreshing, and clean, making these cakes the perfect finish to a spicy meal. The tops and sides of the cakes are left unadorned for a minimalist look.

For the Cake
1 ½ cups (7.5 ounces) all-purpose flour
1/3 teaspoon baking powder
1/3 teaspoon salt
1 ½ sticks plus 2 tablespoons (7 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (7 ounces) sugar
1 ½ tablespoons matcha tea
3 large eggs
3 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream
2 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract

For the Lemon Verbena Ganache
1 cup (8 ounces) heavy cream
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
½ cup (4 grams) dried lemon verbena
2 teaspoons powdered gelatin
3 tablespoons cold water
1 ¾ cups (9.5 ounces) 31% white chocolate chips or fèves or chopped 31% white chocolate
8 tablespoons (1 stick/4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon ground dried lemon verbena

To make the cake

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Coat the bottom and sides of a 13-by-18-by-1-inch baking sheet with nonstick baking spray or butter and line with parchment paper. Smooth the parchment, making sure there are no air bubbles.

2. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the matcha and beat for 30 seconds, or until the color of the butter mixture is uniform.

4. Whisk together the eggs, crème fraîche, and vanilla in a small bowl, then pour into the creamed butter and beat until smooth. Scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl and the paddle and mix for 30 seconds.

5. Beating on low speed, add the dry ingredients in three batches, mixing for 1 to 2 minutes after each addition. Scrape the bowl again and mix for 15 seconds.

6. Pour the batter onto the prepared baking sheet, spreading it evenly with an offset spatula. Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for an additional 3 to 4 minutes, until the cake appears firm and has a matte finish. Let the cake cool completely in the pan on a cooling rack. Chill the cake for a minimum of 10 to 15 minutes before building the mini-cakes.

To make the Ganache

1. Put the cream, corn syrup, and ½ cup dried lemon verbena into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Turn off the heat, cover the pan with aluminum foil, and poke a few holes into the top to allow steam to release. Let steep for 1 hour.

2. Sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water in a small bowl. Let sit for 10 minutes, until the gelatin softens.

3. Put the chocolate into a medium bowl and set aside.

4. Strain the cream mixture and return it to the pan. Add the gelatin and heat over medium-low heat, stirring until the gelatin is dissolved and the cream has almost come to a boil. Pour the cream over the chocolate and let sit for 1 minute.

5. Using a small rubber spatula, begin stirring the white chocolate mixture in one direction, concentrating on the center, until smooth and glistening. Add the butter and stir until it is completely melted, about 1 minute. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, and ½ teaspoon ground dried lemon verbena and stir until well incorporated. Put the ganache in the coolest part of your kitchen and let set, stirring occasionally, until spreadable, for about 1 hour before using. (The ganache can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks; see instructions below.)

To Assemble the Cakes

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Using a ruler as a guide, score lines 3 inches apart, both vertically and horizontally, on the chilled sheet cake. Then cut into 24 squares with a very sharp knife.

2. Place 8 cake squares on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Using an offset spatula, spread approximately 2 tablespoons ganache over each one. Top each with a second cake square and 2 tablespoons ganache, then top each with a third cake layer. Let stand until the ganache has set, then gently cover the tray pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate until serving.

Storing

The cakes can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Using Leftover (or Chilled) Buttercream and Ganache

Leftover buttercream or ganache will keep in your refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, to be used for another dessert. And it will taste like fresh-made if you follow a few simple steps.

Chilled buttercream is very hard, so you need to let it come to room temperature and then aggressively whip it. Put the room-temperature buttercream in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl, and use a handheld mixer) and beat on low speed. As the buttercream starts to break up, increase the speed to medium. After about 1 minute, the buttercream will soften and separate. This may make you nervous, but just continue mixing, and within another minute or so, the buttercream will come back together and appear brand-new.

Ganache is not as malleable as buttercream, and leftovers require a more delicate handling. Let the ganache come to room temperature (do not try to rush the process—firm chilled ganache is likely to separate and become grainy when beaten). Then put it in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl, and use a handheld mixer) and whip on medium-low speed until the ganache forms soft peaks. Chill for 10 to 15 minutes, then spread it with an offset spatula.

Baking it Green for Tokyo Thursdays # 279

(*Excerpted from Sweet by Valerie Gordon -Artisan Books- Copyright © 2013. Photographs by Peden + Munk.)

Even after a snow storm, this recipe from I Love Coffee (Andrews McMeel, February 25, ebook release) by Susan Zimmer does not have a place at the breakfast table.

Wait until 4 or 5 pm to whip it up as a Valentine's Day afternoon pick me up.

Amaretto Mochaccino

Divinely decadent!

1–2 ounces (30–60 ml) chocolate syrup (below)
4–5 ounces (113–145 ml) steamed milk
2 ounces (15 ml) hot, fresh espresso or strong coffee
1/2 ounce (15 ml) almond-flavored syrup or amaretto
Whipped cream, for garnish
Chocolate sauce, for garnish

1. Pour the chocolate syrup and steamed milk into a 12–ounce (340 ml) cappuccino mug or
tempered glass mug, and froth the mixture. (If you prefer to use a frothing jug, then pour into a
mug once the frothing is completed.)

2. Slowly add the espresso and almond syrup to the frothed chocolate milk.

3. Top with a dollop of whipped cream, and drizzle with chocolate sauce.
+++

Chocolate Syrup
Mmmmm . . . very chocolate-y.

1 1/2 cups (330 g) sugar
1 cup (220 g) sifted unsweetened cocoa powder
A pinch of salt
1 cup (250 ml) water
2 teaspoons (10 ml) vanilla extract
yield: 21/2 cups (625 ml)

1. Combine the sugar, cocoa powder, and salt in a saucepan.

2. Whisk thoroughly.

3. Gradually add the water to the cocoa, stirring (not beating) with the whisk to blend thoroughly.

4. Place over medium heat, stirring frequently with the whisk until the mixture comes to a boil. A layer of foam may form on top of the syrup.

5. Boil for 3 minutes, stirring constantly with the whisk. Reduce the heat if the syrup threatens to boil over.

6. Remove from the heat; pour into a heatproof liquid measuring cup (3 cup/750 ml capacity).

7. Let cool briefly, then chill, uncovered, in the refrigerator until completely cold.

8. Strain through a fine strainer into a 21/2-cup (625 ml) container.

9. Stir in the vanilla.

10. Store, covered, in the refrigerator. The syrup can be kept refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
Variation: For a spicier version, try stirring in 2 teaspoons (4 g) grated orange peel and 1teaspoon (2 g) ground cinnamon with the cocoa powder.

(* Recipe from I Love Coffee by Susan Zimmer -original publication 2007- ebook released on February 25, 2014- Andrews McMeel- reproduced with permission)

One of the rare recipes I share that does not come from a cookbook.

This warm and comforting dessert comes to us via Fat Toad Farm, farmsteaders and creators of goat milk earthy delights in Brookfield, Vermont.                                                                         

Caramel Molten Chocolate Cake

You might get extra points, love, attention from your Valentine if you try your hand at it.  

(* This is not a sponsored post, Recipe and photos courtesy of Fat Toad Farm)

Second excerpt from Southern Italian Desserts, Rediscovering the Sweet Traditions of Calabria, Campania, Basilicata, Puglia, and Sicily (Ten Speed Press, 2013) by Rosetta Costantino with Jennie Schacht.

Africano chocolate-hazelnut cake rolls

Makes 12 cake rolls

Filling
9 ounces (255 g) semisweet chocolate (40 to 55 percent cacao)
1 cup (240 g) hazelnut paste, homemade (page 192) or store-bought
1 cup (125 g) confectioners’ sugar
Cake
3 large eggs
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons mild-flavored honey, such as clover or orange blossom
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon (50 g) cake flour
Coating
16 ounces (454 g) dark chocolate (55 to 60 percent cacao)
3 tablespoons safflower or other neutral-tasting vegetable oil
6 ounces (170 g) white chocolate
1/2 cup (75 g) finely chopped raw pistachios

To make the filling, melt the chocolate in a metal bowl set over but not touching simmering water in a saucepan, just until you can stir the chocolate smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and cool to 88°F (31°C), or until it feels neither warm nor cool when you touch a drop against your lip. Stir in the hazelnut paste until evenly combined. Sift in the confectioners’ sugar, mixing to completely incorporate it. Let the filling stand, uncovered, until it is thick and spreadable, like a thick nut paste, while you make the
cake.

To make the cake, preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C) with a rack in the center of the oven. Line an 11- by 17-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper; butter and flour the parchment paper.

Beat the eggs, sugar, and honey in a stand mixer with the whisk attachment for 15 minutes, beginning at medium speed and increasing to high after the ingredients are blended. Sift the flour over the top, about one-third at a time, gently folding after each addition with a large spatula to completely incorporate the flour without deflating the eggs more than necessary.

Use a small offset spatula to spread the batter in an even layer over the prepared pan. Bake until light golden all over, 8 to 10 minutes. Lift out the cake on its parchment paper and transfer it to a flat surface with a long side facing you. Trim away the crusty edges on all sides of the cake, then cut the cake into four equal sections, about 4 inches wide, marking the cake on both sides and using a straight edge to cut it evenly. Turn the cake pieces bottom side up.

Check the filling: If it is thin, stir briefly over a bowl of ice water, taking care not to slosh water into the bowl, until it is thick and spreadable, like peanut butter. While the cake is still slightly warm and pliable, divide the filling evenly among the four cake pieces, then spread it evenly over the surface of each piece. With a long side facing you, roll one filled cake tightly away from you into a long roll. Continue to roll the remaining hree pieces.

Transfer the rolls, seam side down, to a baking sheet lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes to firm the filling. Trim the ends from the rolls to neaten them, then cut each roll into three equal segments. Return the individual rolls to the lined baking sheet, seam side down.

To make the coating, melt the dark chocolate with 2 tablespoons of the oil in a bowl set over, but not touching, simmering water in a saucepan until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove the saucepan from the heat, keeping the chocolate over the hot water to maintain the right consistency for dipping. Dip one of the rolls into the melted chocolate, holding it from one end and then the other to completely cover it, then hold it over the bowl to let the excess chocolate run back into the bowl. Return the roll to the lined baking sheet. Continue to coat all of the rolls. Refrigerate until set, at least 30
minutes.

Line a second baking sheet with plastic wrap. Melt the white chocolate with the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a bowl over, but not touching, simmering water. Put the pistachios in a small bowl. If you have them, put on disposable latex gloves to keep from leaving fingerprints on the rolls. Dip one end of a roll into the white chocolate, then into the chopped pistachios; repeat to coat the other end. Transfer the roll to the newly lined baking sheet. Continue to dip the remaining rolls. Refrigerate until set, 15 to 30 minutes, before serving.

Refrigerate leftover Africani in a single layer in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Pasta di Nocciola hazelnut paste

Makes about 2 cups (480 g) | Gluten Free

3 cups (450 g) skinned hazelnuts (see headnote)
About 2 tablespoons safflower or other neutral-tasting vegetable oil, as needed

Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C). Spread out the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 20 to 22 minutes, until they are very dark and almost smoking.
If you are using a powerful blender, such as a Blendtec or Vitamix, omit the oil unless you find you need it. For most blenders, or if using a food processor, pour in 2 tablespoons of oil, then add the warm hazelnuts. Process the nuts to make a smooth paste, occasionally scraping down the sides and pushing the nuts toward the blade as needed to keep them moving. Add a bit more oil only if needed to keep the mixture moving. Be persistent—it takes a little while to get the paste going, but once it does, it will
quickly turn to a smooth paste.

(* Reprinted with permission from Southern Italian Desserts 'Rediscovering the Sweet Traditions of Calabria, Campania, Basilicata, Puglia, and Sicily' by Rosetta Costantino with Jennie Schacht -Ten Speed Press, © 2013- Photo Credit: Sara Remington.) 

Let your cake imbibe with this third excerpt from Seriously Bitter Sweet The Ultimate Dessert Maker's Guide to Chocolate (Artisan Books, October 2013) by Alice Medrich... 

Grappa, Currant, and Pine Nut Torte

Serves 16 to 18

Grappa is an unaged Italian brandy. Traditionally distilled from the leftover (and not necessarily fresh or first-quality) juice left on the skins after pressing grapes to make wine, grappa bore some resemblance to our moonshine. Today, fine sipping-quality grappas are made from fresh grape skins reserved for the purpose. Some producers even make varietal grappas.

For the most chocolate flavor, make the cake one day ahead. At passover, substitute matzoh cake meal for the semolina flour and margarine for the butter. Voilà!  

Ingredients

¼ cup grappa

⅓ cup (1⅔ ounces/50 grams) dried currants

¼ cup (1 ounce/35 grams) blanched or unblanched whole almonds

¼ cup (40 grams) semolina flour

9 ounces (255 grams) 70% to 72% chocolate, coarsely chopped
(see Chocolate Notes)

14 tablespoons (200 grams/1¾ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

6 large eggs, separated

1 cup (200 grams) sugar

⅛ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

3 tablespoons (20 grams) pine nuts

Powdered sugar for dusting (optional)

Directions

1.  Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Unless you are planning to serve the cake on the pan bottom, line the bottom of the cake pan with a circle of parchment paper. 

2.  In a small bowl, combine the grappa and currants. Set aside. 

3.  In a food processor, pulse the almonds and semolina flour until the almonds are very finely ground. Set aside. 

4.  Place the chocolate and butter in a large heatproof bowl in a wide skillet of barely simmering water and stir occasionally until nearly melted. Remove from the heat and stir until melted and smooth. Or microwave on Medium (50%) power for 2½ to 3 minutes. Stir until completely melted and smooth. 

5.  In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with ⅔ cup (133 grams) of the sugar and the salt until pale and thick. Stir in the warm chocolate mixture and the grappa and currants. Set aside. 

6.  In a large clean, dry bowl, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar with an electric mixer at medium speed until white and foamy. Gradually sprinkle in the remaining ⅓ cup (67 grams) sugar, beating at high speed until almost stiff. Scrape about one-quarter of the egg whites onto the chocolate mixture, sprinkle all of the almond mixture over the top, and fold together. Fold in the remaining whites. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. 

7.  Sprinkle the top with the pine nuts.

8.  Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the cake about 1½ inches from the edge comes out clean. The center of the cake should still jiggle slightly when the pan is jostled and still be gooey if tested. Set the cake on a rack to cool completely; the surface of the cake will crack and fall as it cools. (The cooled cake can be covered tightly, or removed from the pan and wrapped well, and stored at room temperature for 2 to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months. Bring to room temperature before serving.) 

9.  To serve, slide a slim knife around the sides of the cake to loosen the cake. Remove the pan sides and transfer the cake, on the pan bottom, to a platter, or invert the cake onto a rack or tray, remove the bottom and the paper liner, and invert onto a platter. Using a fine-mesh strainer, sift a little powdered sugar over the top of the cake before serving, if desired. 

Chocolate Notes

You can use any chocolate from 54% to 72% here, but the higher end of the range balances the grappa. If you serve the torte warm—which is an especially voluptuous experience—be prepared for it to
be very boozy. As the torte cools and ages overnight, the chocolate flavor becomes richer and more intense—and the booze recedes. 

 If you use a chocolate at the low end of the cacao range, bake a day ahead of serving so the chocolate is not overwhelmed by the grappa, or use less grappa. Note that the torte made with chocolate at the low end of the range may require up to 10 minutes longer in the oven before it tests done. 

(*Recipe excerpted from Seriously Bitter Sweet by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2013. Photographs by Deborah Jones)

Not all Buches de Noel (Yule Logs) are equal.

Some like this one from The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Dessert Cookbook (Rodale, September 2013) stand out. It will be worth the time you put in.

YULE LOG 

SERVES 8 TO 10 

Think of dessert as the centerpiece of your holiday table. Yule logs are traditionally served at Christmastime. Decorated with Mushroom Meringues (page 60), they look like a log in the forest. Using this bûche de Noel (the classic name for this dessert) as a centerpiece saves you time. You can give the hot glue gun a rest. 

CAKE 

Softened butter and all-purpose flour for the pan 

¹/₄ cup confectioners' sugar 

3 large eggs 

3 large egg yolks 

1¹/₂ teaspoons pure vanilla extract 

¹/₈ teaspoon salt 

¹/₂ cup granulated sugar 

¹/₃ cup all-purpose flour (spooned into cup and leveled off) 

¹/₃ cup cornstarch 

¹/₄ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 

FILLING 

2 tablespoons raspberry liqueur (such as crème de framboise) 

2 tablespoons cold water 

1 envelope (¹/₄ ounce) plain unflavored gelatin 

1 package (10 ounces) frozen unsweetened raspberries, thawed 

¹/₃ cup seedless raspberry jam 

1 cup heavy cream 

¹/₄ cup sugar 

CHOCOLATE GLAZE 

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted 

5 tablespoons unsalted butter 

2 tablespoons honey 

Mushroom Meringues (page 60), for decorating 

Confectioners' sugar for dusting, optional 

To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 10 × 15-inch jelly-roll pan. Line with waxed paper. Butter and flour the paper. Place a large kitchen towel on a work surface. Dust the towel with the confectioners' sugar. 

In a large metal bowl (or the bowl of a stand mixer), whisk together the whole eggs, egg yolks, vanilla, and salt until combined. Gradually whisk in the granulated sugar. Place the bowl over, not in, a pan of simmering water and whisk (by hand) until the mixture is warm (about 115°F on an instant-read thermometer). 

Transfer the bowl to the electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat on medium speed for 4 minutes, or until thick, light in color, and about tripled in volume. 

In a small bowl, combine the flour, cornstarch, and cocoa powder. With a strainer, sift one-third of the flour mixture over the egg mixture and gently fold it in by hand. Repeat two more times. 

Scrape the mixture into the jelly-roll pan and, with a small offset spatula, evenly spread the batter in the pan. Bake for 9 to 10 minutes, or until the top springs back when lightly touched. Immediately turn the cake onto the kitchen towel and carefully peel off the waxed paper. Starting at one short end, roll up the cake and towel together. Let cool on a wire rack. 

To make the filling: In a small bowl, combine the liqueur and cold water. Sprinkle the gelatin over it and let stand for 5 minutes, or until softened. 

In a food processor, combine the raspberries and jam and puree. Strain the puree through a fine-mesh sieve and discard the seeds. Transfer the puree to a small saucepan and heat over low heat. Add the gelatin mixture, stirring until melted. Let cool to room temperature. 

In a bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the cream and sugar until stiff peaks form. Fold in the raspberry mixture. Refrigerate, whisking occasionally, for 30 minutes, or until it's beginning to set up but still spreadable. 

Unroll the cake and spread the raspberry mixture over the cake, leaving a 2-inch border all around. Starting at one short end, roll the cake up jelly-roll fashion. 

To make the chocolate glaze: In a small saucepan, combine the chocolate, butter, and honey and cook over low heat until melted, stirring until smooth. Scrape into a bowl and let cool until of a spreading consistency. 

To assemble the cake: Cut off about 1¹/₂ inches from each end of the cake on a shallow angle and set the pieces aside. Spread the glaze on the cake. Place the reserved pieces of cake on the top of the "log," angled side down and spread with the glaze. Refrigerate until set and decorate with Mushroom Meringues. Dust with confectioners' sugar, if desired. 

(* Recipe reproduced with permission from The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Dessert Cookbook by Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell-published by Rodale-September 2013- Photographer:Paulette Tavormina)