Cannon No 1 Treat, Meyer Lemon Coconut Cheesescake from Baking at the 20 th Century Café by Michelle Polzine

Cannon N0 1 treat with no close contest: Meyer Lemon Cheesecake from Baking at the 20th Century Cafe 'Iconic European Desserts from Linzer Torte to Honey Cake' (Artisan Books, October 2020) by San Francisco baker extraordinaire Michelle Polzine

Cecil Cannon’s Favorite Meyer Lemon–Coconut Cheesecake

Cecil Cannon, the most remarkable child I have ever known, sprang from the loins of my soul brother, Vince Cannon, a Marxist punk rocker in the guise of a corporate lawyer, with a sense of humor even more bawdy than my own. She’s always got her nose stuck in a book (her stepmother, Claire, is an English professor) and is not afraid to speak her mind. Cecil has boldly declared Easter to be her favorite holiday, because that’s when I make Meyer lemon cheesecake. I in turn declare this to be Cecil Cannon’s Meyer Lemon–Coconut Cheesecake. Don’t expect her to share her piece with you.

Meyer Lemon Coconut Cheesecake BAKING AT THE 20TH CENTURY CAFE

As with the Vanilla Cheesecake, you bake the cake and crust separately and then perform the same tricky invert-­flip-­flip move to combine them. You can make the cake up to 3 days ahead, but don’t combine crust and cake until shortly before you plan to serve this, or the crust will get soggy. If you must put it together in advance, brush the crust with a thin layer of melted white chocolate before attaching it to the cheesecake.

Makes one 9-­ or 10-­inch (23-­ or 25-­centimeter) cake; serves 12

Ingredients:

For the Cheesecake

26 ounces (737 grams) cream cheese (see Note, opposite), at room temperature

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (255 grams) crème fraîche, homemade or store-­bought, at room temperature

3 tablespoons (18 grams) grated Meyer lemon zest

3 large eggs, at room temperature

2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

¾ cup (148 grams) granulated sugar

3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) Meyer lemon juice

Pinch of kosher salt

For the Crust

2 cups (226 grams) fine unsweetened dried coconut (sometimes called macaroon coconut)

¼ cup (28 grams) confectioners’ sugar

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

4 tablespoons (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 tablespoon beaten egg white

2 teaspoons granulated sugar for sprinkling

Directions:

Make the cheesecake: Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Line a 10-inch (25-­centimeter) or 9-­by-­3-­inch (23-­by-­8-­centimeter) round cake pan with parchment and set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl, using a wooden spoon), paddle the cream cheese, crème fraîche, and lemon zest on low speed until creamy and smooth (the goal is not to add air to the mixture, which would cause the cheesecake to pouf while baking and then crack). Add the eggs one at a time, followed by the yolks, mixing after each addition until incorporated. Add the granulated sugar, lemon juice, and salt and mix, still on low speed, until homogeneous. Transfer to the prepared baking pan and smooth the top with an offset spatula.

Fold a paper towel into quarters and set it in the center of a roasting pan. Set the cake pan on top of the paper towel to prevent the bottom of the cake from overcooking and to keep the cake pan from sliding around when you move the roasting pan, then add enough hot water to the roasting pan to come halfway up the sides of the cake pan. Transfer to the oven and bake until the center of the cheesecake is set, about 50 minutes. Let cool in the water bath, then transfer to the refrigerator and chill for at least 4 hours. (The cake can be made up to 3 days ahead.)

Make the crust: Preheat the oven to 275°F (133°C). Using a dark marker, draw a circle the size of the pan you are using on a sheet of parchment, then flip the paper over and place it on a sheet pan.

In a medium bowl, combine the coconut, confectioners’ sugar, and salt. Stir in the butter and egg white until combined. Transfer to the center of the circle you traced and press into an even 10-­inch (25-­centimeter) or 9-­inch (23-­centimeter) round, depending on the size of the pan you’re using to bake the cake.

Bake the crust until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes, then transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Once it is cool, carefully peel off the parchment.

To assemble the cheesecake: Remove the cheesecake from the refrigerator. Run a small offset spatula, with the front of it facing outward, around the edges of the cake, pressing against the pan so you don’t cut into the cake. Then swirl the pan over a low burner to warm the bottom slightly and make it easier to remove the cheesecake from the pan. Blot any moisture that has accumulated on the surface of the cake with a paper towel, then sprinkle the surface of the cake with the granulated sugar. Take a deep breath! Invert a flat plate over the cheesecake and, in one fluid motion, turn the cheesecake out onto the plate. Carefully peel the parchment from the bottom of the cake, then set the baked crust on top of the cake. Invert a serving plate over the cake and (deep breath again!), in one fluid motion, invert the cake onto the serving platter so the crust is now on the bottom. With a sharp paring knife, trim any excess crust.

Cut the cake into wedges and serve.

(*Excerpted from Baking at the 20th Century Cafe by Michelle Polzine -Artisan Books-. Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Aya Brackett.)


Are you Crepe Ready, Chandeleur 2021 is Tomorrow February 2, Crepe Batter Recipe to Get you Going

Are you crepe ready?

Chandeleur 2021 is Tomorrow February 2.

Actually La Chandeleur always falls on February 2. 

I will make some for lunch, couples that it. Two crepes with in the middle (for me) a mix of cheese, eggs and ham.

I make my crepe batter an hour ahead of actually making crepes to give the batter time to rest.

Sweet ricotta crepes dolci

Ham is not a pre-requisite so make your own version, vegetarian if you wish. 

To help you get started, check this Starter guide to Crepes batter from Crepes50 Savory and Sweet Recipes (Chronicle Books, April 2012) by Martha Holmberg.

(*Illustration is 'Sweet Ricotta Crepes' also named 'Apostles' Fingers' from Dolci -Stewart, Tabori & Chang- October 2011 by Francine Segan, photography by Ellen Silverman)


Fatty Flaky Hungarian Comfort Food, Cheddar-­Bacon Pogacsa from Baking at the 20th Century Cafe by Michelle Polzine

Fatty Flaky Hungarian Comfort Food, Cheddar-­Bacon Pogácsa from Baking at the 20th Century Cafe 'Iconic European Desserts from Linzer Torte to Honey Cake' (Artisan Books, October 2020) by San Francisco baker extraordinaire Michelle Polzine.

Cheddar-­Bacon Pogácsa (Hungarian Savory Scones)

This delicious yeasted “biscuit” is unique to Hungary, although similar pastries with similar names can be found all over the Balkans and the Carpathian Basin. Every Hungarian I have met has their own recipe for these, and they are usually a source of great family pride. The pastry may look like a cross between a scone and a biscuit, but these delightful morsels are so much more. They are leavened three ways—with yeast, lamination, and baking powder—to achieve a flakiness and prevent a heaviness that could otherwise be a pitfall with so many fatty ingredients wedged into one dough.

Cheddar Bacon Pogacsa 20th CENTURY CAFE

The addition of baking powder is not traditional, but it gives the dough a little extra lift. A trick I recently learned for laminating, or putting turns in the dough (as for croissant and puff pastry), is to actually cut the dough and stack it to create the turns, rather than folding it, which is the way I was taught, and what I had practiced for more than twenty-­five years. This new technique makes for a much clearer delineation of layers, and you won’t end up with those wonky ones that happen in the folded parts of the dough.

Even though there is a ton of fat in this dough, the liquid from the cream and sour cream can still make it tough if you don’t respect the gluten and give the dough the proper time to rest between turns. If while rolling you feel it resist or spring back in any way, drop your weapon (I mean rolling pin), wrap up the dough, and chill it for 30 minutes before touching it again.

I like to make tiny pogácsa to serve as a snack with wine and larger ones as a morning or afternoon pastry. This is another recipe with interchangeable parts, so feel free to be creative, swapping out different cheeses or herbs for the ones suggested here, keeping your proportions in line with the ones listed, and make your own legendary family recipe!

Ingredients:

Makes 18 pogácsa

4¾ cups (570 grams) all-­purpose flour

2 tablespoons (35 grams) baking powder

2¼ teaspoons kosher salt

½ teaspoon mildly spicy chile flakes, such as Aleppo (optional)

1 cup (237 milliliters) heavy cream

1 tablespoon crumbled fresh (cake) yeast or 1 teaspoon instant dry yeast

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (241 grams) sour cream

1 cup (113 grams) grated cheddar cheese (about 4 ounces)

¼ cup (10 grams) finely chopped chives

4 to 6 slices bacon, cooked and finely chopped

½ pound (226 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

1 egg, beaten, for egg wash

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, or nigella seeds or poppy seeds for sprinkling

Directions:

Combine the flour, baking powder, salt, chile flakes, if using, in a large bowl and set aside. Pour the cream into a medium bowl and add the yeast to the cream. Add the sour cream, whisk to combine, and set aside.

Add the cheese, chives, and bacon to the dry ingredients and stir to combine, coating the ingredients in flour. Add the cubed butter and work it into the flour with a pastry blender or your fingers. Some butter pieces should be the size of peas, but some larger pieces are okay. Make a well in the center of the mixture and pour in the wet ingredients. Use your hand like a claw to pull the dried ingredients into the creamy center and rake everything around, distributing the wet and dry bits evenly, until no dry or wet spots remain. Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap and pat into a rectangle that is 1½ inches (4 centimeters) thick. Wrap in the plastic, and chill for 1 hour.

On a floured work surface, with a floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a rectangle that is 13 by 24 inches (33 by 60 centimeters). Use a dry pastry brush to brush off any excess flour. Cut the dough into three 8-by-13-inch (20-by-33-­centimeter) rectangles, meticulously brushing off the excess flour. Stack the rectangles of dough on top of one another, then turn the stack so a short side is in front of your belly. This is the first “turn.” Roll the dough to an 8-by-18 inch (20-by-45-­centimeter) rectangle, wrap in plastic, and chill for 30 to 45 minutes, until cold and firm.

Repeat the rolling, cutting, and stacking process two more times for a total of 3 turns, chilling after each turn.

When ready to roll and cut the pogácsa, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line two sheet pans with parchment.

On a lightly floured work surface, with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough to a thickness of ¾ inch (2 centimeters). Using a sharp paring knife, score the dough diagonally in one direction, then again in the opposite direction to create a diamond pattern, cutting no deeper than ⅛ inch (0.3 centimeter).

Using a 2¾-­inch (7-­centimeter) round cutter, cut out the pogácsa and place on the prepared pans, spacing them about 2 inches (5 centimeters) apart. (The scraps can be gathered together, chilled or frozen, and rerolled once.) (The pogácsa can be made ahead and frozen before baking. Freeze in a single layer on a sheet pan until frozen solid, then transfer to a freezer bag and freeze for up to 2 months. They can be baked from frozen; just add a few minutes to the baking time.)

Brush the pogácsa with the beaten egg and sprinkle with flaky salt. Transfer to the oven and bake until puffed and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

(*Excerpted from Baking at the 20th Century Cafe by Michelle Polzine -Artisan Books-. Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Aya Brackett.)


Book Distancing Number 1, Friday Twofer Giveaway, Treats Truck Baking and Eat It Up No Fridge Waste Cookbook

Book Distancing Number 1, Friday Giveaway, 

Each Giveaway is a Twofer, book cleaning before Spring.

Eat It Up! no fridge waste cookbook (Da Capo Lifelong, 2016) by Sherri Brooks Vinton 

Eat it up

Treats Truck Baking Book ! (William Morrow, 2011) by Kim Ima

Treats truck baking

Answer 2 questions, and you win, first come first serve 

-Question 1: What can you do with carrots greens?

-Question 2: On brownie sheet, do you prefer corner, center or side?

First come first serve.

E-mail your answers to: s.ls [at] mediterraneanworkandplay [dot] com


Follow the Scent of Cranberry ­Ginger Upside ­Down Cakes from Baking at the 20th Century Cafe by Michelle Polzine

Follow the scent of these Cranberry ­Ginger Upside ­Down Cakes from Baking at the 20th Century Cafe 'Iconic European Desserts from Linzer Torte to Honey Cake' (Artisan Books, October 2020) by San Francisco baker extraordinaire Michelle Polzine all the way to the kitchen.

Cranberry-­Ginger Upside-­Down Cakes

These cakes have a warming, homey quality that fits perfectly into the Christmas season. With lots of spice from fresh ginger, bitterness from blackstrap molasses, and brightness from tart cranberries, the cakes produce a smell while baking that will surely put you in the holiday spirit (even if you’re like me and can’t have a Christmas tree because your crazy cats will break all of your antique ornaments). Just the batter baked on its own—without its cranberry-­caramel topper—makes a damn fine cake, and it’s practically healthy with the good amount of iron from the molasses.

Be sure that all the cranberries have popped and deflated before you pour the batter over them; if they are not fully popped, the berries will lift from the bed of caramel, up and into the cake. Serve with Meyer Lemon Cream if you like.

Makes 8 to 12 individual cakes, depending on the ramekins you use

Cranberry Ginger Upside Down Cake from BAKING AT THE 20th CENTURY CAFE

Ingredients

For the Caramel

½ cup (99 grams) sugar

4 tablespoons (57 grams) unsalted butter

2 cups (210 grams) fresh cranberries

For the Cake

½ cup (99 grams) sugar

½ cup (118 milliliters) grapeseed or vegetable oil

¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons (222 milliliters) blackstrap molasses

1 tablespoon honey

½ cup (118 milliliters) boiling water

1 teaspoon baking soda

One 2½-­ounce (71-gram) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated (about ¼ cup)

1¼ cups (150 grams) all-­purpose flour

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 large egg, beaten

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter eight 8-­ounce (237-­milliliter) or twelve 6-­ounce (178-­milliliter) ramekins.

Make the caramel: Heat the sugar in a medium heavy-­bottomed saucepan over medium-­high heat. As the sugar begins to melt at the edges, use a heatproof spatula to pull the melted sugar into the center, then continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the caramel is a deep reddish-­amber color. If at any point it looks grainy or clumpy, reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring, until smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter; the mixture will foam vigorously.

Divide the caramel among the ramekins, then top with the ­cranberries. Set the ramekins on a sheet pan and transfer to the oven. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the cranberries are popped and deflated. Remove from the oven and stab the cranberries with a fork to ensure that they’re fully popped. Return the ramekins to the oven and bake for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and let the ramekins and caramel cool completely before proceeding. (You can pop the ramekins into the fridge to speed the process, or even do this step a day ahead.)

Make the cake: In a large bowl, stir together the sugar, oil, molasses, and honey. Combine the boiling water and baking soda in a measuring cup, then pour into the sugar mixture and stir to combine. Stir in the ginger. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, cloves, and cinnamon, then add to the wet ingredients and stir until combined. Stir in the egg until the batter is homogeneous.

Divide the batter among the ramekins. Bake until the cakes are puffed and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack set over a baking sheet for 5 minutes, then run an offset spatula (with its tip pointed outward, so it doesn’t cut into the cake) around the edge of each cake, turn out onto the wire rack, and let cool completely. (Or, if you are making these cakes ahead, let cool completely in their ramekins—do not turn them out—and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

When you’re ready to serve, warm the cakes in a 350°F/175°C degree oven until the cakes and the ramekin bottoms are hot, then invert onto plates.)

COVER. Baking at the 20th Century Cafe

(*Excerpted from Baking at the 20th Century Cafe by Michelle Polzine -Artisan Books-. Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Aya Brackett.)


Putting A Stamp On Portuguese Food, Pastel de Tentugal, A classic from the 16th Century

One of the things that stayed with me from a July 2018 visit to Portugal is stamps.

I had bought a few too many stamps that were not used as airport clearing for flight back was a little slow.

Pastel de tentugal

So I brought back Portuguese food memories, exhibit # 1 is 'Pastel de Tentugal' or Pastéis de Tentúgal.

History has it that they were created by Carmelite nuns in the town of Tentugal (Coimbra district) in the 16th century.

Want to try your hand at baking some check this Pastel de Tentugal Recipe from Milly's Kitchen


Have a Plant Based Vegan Holiday with this Vegan Carrot Cake Recipe from Vegan Christmas by Audrey Fitzjohn

Have a plant based vegan holiday with this Vegan Carrot Cake recipe from Vegan Christmas (Smith Street Books, October 2020) by Audrey Fitzjohn, a photographer, stylist, and freelance writer based in Paris, France. 

Vegan Carrot cake

Preparation 30 minutes – Baking 45 minutes

Serves 8

Vegan-Carrot-Cake-Photo1024_1

Ingredients:

250 g (9 oz/12 ⁄3 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour
125 g (4½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
2 teaspoons instant dried yeast
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
pinch of salt
4 carrots, grated
1 tablespoon white vinegar
180 ml (6 fl oz) canola oil, plus extra for greasing
120 ml (4 fl oz) orange juice
75 g (2¾ oz) raisins
100 g (3½ oz) walnuts

Frosting and decoration
450 g (1 lb) icing (confectioners’) sugar
80 g (2¾ oz) dairy-free margarine
1 teaspoon natural vanilla extract
3 tablespoons lemon juice
30 g (1 oz) walnuts, roughly chopped

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).

Grease two 18 cm (7 in) round cake tins.

Combine the flour, sugar, yeast, cinnamon and salt in a bowl. Add the grated carrot, vinegar and oil and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add the orange juice and mix again. Finally, stir through the raisins and walnuts. Divide the batter between the cake tins and bake for 45 minutes or until
a skewer inserted into the middle of the cakes comes out clean. Leave the cakes to cool in their tins for about 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack and leave to cool completely.

To make the frosting, beat the icing sugar, margarine, vanilla extract and lemon juice with electric beaters on medium speed for 3–4 minutes, until the mixture is smooth.

Transfer the frosting to a piping bag fitted with a wide nozzle. Pipe half the frosting over the top of one of the cakes. Place the second cake on top and pipe the remaining frosting on top of the cake. Scatter over the chopped walnuts and serve.

(* Recipe reproduced with permission from 'Vegan Christmas' by Audrey Fitzjohn- Smith Street Books- October 2020)


French Madeleine Meets Italian Chestnut, Vanilla Chestnut Cream Madeleines from Old World Italian by Mimi Thorisson

French Madeleine meets Italian chestnut with this Vanilla Chestnut Cream Madeleines recipe from Old World Italian 'Recipes and Secrets from Our Travels in Italy' (Clarkson Potter, September 2020) by Mimi Thorisson.

VANILLA CHESTNUT CREAM MADELEINES

I’m going out on a limb with the inclusion of this recipe. Madeleines are of course French. But in my defense, Torino as we know it was

established by French dukes, and that influence is everywhere, not least in the kitchen. Everyone loves madeleines, one of my favorite recipes.

Some desserts that I consider French have been appropriated by Italy and are very popular, like crème caramel and baba au rhum. So why not madeleines?

Adding chestnuts gives them an Italian feel.

Makes 20 to 24 madeleines

Vanilla Chestnut Cream Madeleines_Page_1_Image_0001

Ingredients

2 large eggs

½ cup / 100 g granulated sugar

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons / 100 g all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

6 tablespoons / 90 g unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the pans

2 tablespoons rum

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

7 ounces / 200 g sweetened chestnut puree

powdered sugar, for dusting

Directions:

1 Preheat the oven to 400°F / 200°C. Butter two 12-cup madeleine pans.

2 In a large bowl, mix the eggs and granulated sugar. Stir in the flour and baking powder. In a medium bowl, combine the melted butter, rum,

vanilla, and chestnut puree. Add the butter/chestnut mixture to the batter and mix with a wooden spoon until combined. Divide the batter

among the madeleine molds.

3 Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F / 180°C. Continue baking until golden brown, another 8 minutes.

Unmold immediately and let cool on a wire rack for 1 minute before serving. Dust lightly with powdered sugar.

Old World Italian_COV

(*Recipe reproduced with permission from Old World Italian 'Recipes and Secrets from Our Travels in Italy' -Clarkson Potter, September 2020- by Mimi Thorisson. Photograph by Oddur Thorisson)


Snow is Coming! Bechamel your Pizza with Brussels Sprouts Pizza Carbonara from Modern Comfort Food by Ina Garten

Buckets of snow are coming to Jersey on Wednesday. Actually wet snowflakes are falling as I write this, a sneak preview to bigger event.

So béchamel your pizza for extra warmth with this Brussels Sprouts Pizza Carbonara recipe by Ina Garten from Modern Comfort Food (Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House- October 2020).

Brussels Sprouts Pizza Carbonara

Makes 4 (9-inch) Individual Pizzas

Brussel Sprouts Pizza (Modern Comfort Food photo credit Quentin Bacon)

Ingredients

For the béchamel:

1½ cups whole milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup whole milk ricotta (9 ounces)

2 extra-large egg yolks

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Good olive oil

8 ounces pancetta, ¹⁄₈-inch diced

To assemble the pizzas:

4 (8-ounce) balls store-bought pizza dough

½ cup freshly grated Italian Parmesan cheese

½ cup freshly grated Italian Pecorino cheese

12 ounces Brussels sprouts, trimmed and thinly sliced (see note)

Directions

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Arrange two racks evenly spaced in the oven.

For the béchamel, pour the milk into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk the flour into the butter and cook for 2 minutes, whisking almost constantly. Whisk in the hot milk, switch to a wooden spoon, and simmer, stirring constantly, for 2 to 5 minutes, until thick enough to leave a trail when you run your finger down the back of the spoon. Cook for one more minute. Off the heat, stir in the ricotta, egg yolks, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper; set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium (10-inch) sauté pan, add the pancetta, and cook over medium heat for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until half-cooked. Transfer the pancetta to a plate lined with paper towels and set aside.

Flip over two sheet pans and put 12 × 18-inch pieces of parchment paper on each pan. Roll and stretch two of the pizza doughs into a 9 or 10-inch circle (they don’t want to be perfect!) on the parchment papers. Leaving a 1-inch border, spread ½ cup of the béchamel on each pizza and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan, 2 tablespoons of the Pecorino, and a quarter of the pancetta. In a medium bowl, toss the Brussels sprouts with 3 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle the two pizzas evenly with half of the Brussels sprouts. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the crust is nicely browned, including the bottom. Cut each pizza in six wedges with a large chef’s knife and serve hot. Repeat for the remaining two pizzas.

Note: To slice the Brussels sprouts, trim them and process through the feed tube of a food processor fitted with the slicing disk.

Gart_ModComfort_cvrfr_final

(* Recipe courtesy of MODERN COMFORT FOOD. Copyright © 2020 by Ina Garten. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Photo by Quentin Bacon)


Looks Like a Dusting of Holiday Snow Landed on Veneziane, Milanese Treat from Sant Ambroeus Coffee Bar Cookbook

It looks like a dusting of holiday snow landed on this Veneziane, a Milanese treat from Sant Ambroeus, The Coffee Bar Cookbook (Rizzoli, October 2020).

Veneziane

Despite the name, a Veneziana is a Milanese treat often served on the Christmas table. Its domed shape always makes a good impression, and the sweet almond topping and confectioners sugar look like a dusting of snow. This mini version is particularly fun to serve, as everyone loves having their own individual dessert. You will need paper panettone molds to make these the proper shape.

Makes 10 individual breads

Veneziane

Ingredients:

Dough:

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon water
1½ cups high gluten flour
1½ cups bread flour
1 teaspoon instant yeast
1¾ teaspoons fine sea salt
¼ cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs, cold
1 stick plus 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold, cut into 12 pieces
½ cup diced candied orange peel
½ cup raisins
Vegetable oil for oiling bowl
Finishing
1 cup blanched almond flour
½ cup granulated sugar
2 to 4 egg whites
¼ cup sliced almonds
¼ cup pearl sugar
Confectioners sugar for sprinkling

Directions:

1. To make the dough, place the water, both flours, yeast, salt, and granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment. Mix to combine

2. Lightly beat the eggs and add them on low speed with the mixer running.

3. Turn the mixer up to medium speed and mix until the dough is firm and if you stretch a little between your fingers it forms a paneî rather than tearing. (This shows that gluten has developed.) This should take 4 to 5 minutes.

4. Turn the speed to low and add the pieces of butter one at a time. Turn the speed back up to medium and mix until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 6 to 10 minutes. Add the orange peel and raisins and mix just to distribute evenly (either on low speed or by hand).

5. Lightly oil a large bowl. Shape the dough into a ball, transfer to the oiled bowl, and turn so that all sides are coated with oil. Cover the bowl and set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes.

6. Transfer the dough to a work surface and gently deflate and spread it. Fold 4 sides into the center, then turn the dough over so the smooth side is up and return it to the bowl. Cover and let rest at room temperature until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours.

7. Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces by weight. Shape each piece into a ball and place each in a 2¾ inch diameter and 2 inch tall panettone mold. Cover and let rise until the dough reaches the tops of the molds.

8. Preheat the oven to 350∞ F on the convection setting. Combine the almond flour and ½ cup granulated sugar for the topping . One at a time work in an egg white until you have a mixture that is a soft paste. Spread this paste on the tops of the breads. Sprinkle on the sliced almonds and pearl sugar and bake in the preheated oven until golden brown and puffed, 15 to 20 minutes.

9. Cool the breads completely, then dust with confectioners sugar just before serving.

(* Recipe reproduced with permission from Sant Ambroeus Coffee Bar Cookbook -Rizzoli, October 2020- Photo © Evan Sung)