Posts from July 2014

Ouvert, Paris by Mouth Offers August 2014 List of Paris Restaurants Opened and When

Ouvert, Paris by Mouth offers August 2014 List of Paris Restaurants Opened and when.

List is organized in alphabetical order by arrondissement.

It does not list each and every restaurant.

It is a curated list of their favorite spots.

Frenchie is closed from July 12 to September 1.

A favorite bistro of theirs Juveniles is closed from August 3 to September 1.


Some restaurants close for vacation 'a cheval' between July and August.

Check Paris By Mouth list for full details.

(* Image of 'Juveniles' from Juveniles Facebook Page)

Cooling Station on Hot Summer Day, Banana Maple, Raspberry and Honey Popsicles by Donna Hay

At the cooling station on hot Summer day, Banana-Maple, Raspberry and Honey popsicles from Fresh and Light (Harper 360, 2014, US edition), by Donna Hay, one of the most visually appetizing books of the year.

Popcicles image_HAY

(* Reproduced with permission from Fresh and Light by Donna Hay, US edition published by Harper 360, 2014- Photography by William Meppem)

Batch number 32, Dry Fig Salami from Charlito's Cocina, Quick Taste and Photo

They came all the way from Long Island City so the crowds roaming the aisles of the Summer Fancy Food Show 2014 could sample this New York take on Spanish style cured meats.

Dry fig salami

From small-batch # 32, i tasted Charlito's Cocina 'Dry Fig Salami'.

It melted on my tongue.

Snapped a photo too

I Want to Marry This...I Do Ice Cream from Brooklyn 'Ample Hills Creamery'

Ready to propose, here's an ice-cream recipe from Ample Hills CreamerySecrets & Stories from Brooklyn's Favorite Ice Cream Shop (Stewart Tabori & Chang, April 2014) by Brian Smith, Jackie Cuscuna and Lauren Kaelin of Ample Hills Creamery that will do the trick...

If your better half to be is a vegetarian skip the bacon bark and stick with maple ice cream.

I Want to Marry This!

For the Maple Ice Cream:

2 tablespoons organic cane sugar
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons skim milk powder
1⅓ cups whole milk
¾ cup grade B maple syrup
2 cups heavy cream
3 egg yolks

For the Bacon Bark:

Butter for the baking sheet
1 pound bacon
14 tablespoons unsalted butter
2¼ cups organic cane sugar
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons salt
2½ teaspoons vanilla extract
½ teaspoon baking soda
8 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

I want to marry AmpleHIllsCreamery_p074

1. Make the maple ice cream: Prepare an ice bath in the sink or in a large heatproof bowl.

2. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, skim milk powder, and milk. Stir with a hand mixer or whisk until smooth. Make sure the skim milk powder is wholly dissolved into the mixture and that no lumps remain (any remaining sugar granules will dissolve over the heat). Stir in the maple syrup and cream.

3. Clip a candy thermometer to the saucepan and set the pan over medium heat. Cook, stirring often with a rubber spatula and scraping the bottom of the pan to prevent sticking and burning, until the mixture reaches 110ºF (45ºC), 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

4. Place the egg yolks in a medium bowl. While whisking, slowly pour ½ cup of the hot milk mixture into the egg yolks to temper them. Continue to whisk slowly until the mixture is an even color and consistency, then whisk the egg-yolk mixture back into the remaining milk mixture.

5. Return the pan to the stovetop over medium heat and continue cooking the mixture, stirring
often, until it reaches 165ºF, 5 to 10 minutes more.

6. Transfer the pan to the prepared ice bath and let cool for 15 to20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Pour the ice cream base through a wire-mesh strainer into a storage container and place in the
refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours, or until completely cool.

7. Make the bacon bark: Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Butter two 12-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheets and line them with parchment paper.

8. On one baking sheet, lay out the bacon strips in a single layer. Bake until crispy, about 15 minutes. Reserve ¼ cup of the bacon grease from the pan and discard the rest or reserve it for another use. Let cool, then break the bacon into small pieces and set aside.

9. In a medium saucepan, combine the butter, cane sugar, brown sugar, salt, reserved bacon grease, and ¼ cup water. Clip a candy thermometer to the pan and set the pan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, until just combined, then continue to cook without stirring until the mixture reaches 305ºF. Be very careful—the toffee will bubble up as it boils. It is very hot and will cause serious burns if it spatters on you. Using oven mitts, remove the pan from the heat, remove the thermometer, and add the vanilla. The vanilla might spatter when it hits the hot toffee, so be careful. Add the baking soda and whisk vigorously for a few seconds to combine. Then add the bacon pieces and fold into the toffee. Pour the toffee evenly onto the prepared baking sheet.

10. Before the toffee cools, sprinkle the chocolate across the top. Wait a minute or two, then use
a spatula to spread the now melted chocolate across the top of the toffee. Let cool completely, then refrigerate for 1 hour, until the toffee has hardened. Chop the toffee into bite-size pieces and set aside.

11. Transfer the cooled base to an ice cream maker and churn it according to the manufacturer’s

12. Transfer the ice cream to a storage container, folding in the pieces of bacon bark as you do.
Use as much of the bacon bark as you want; you won’t necessarily need the whole batch. Serve
immediately or harden in your freezer for 8 to 12 hours for a more scoopable ice cream.

(Recipe reproduced with permission from Ample Hills Creamery: Secrets and Stories from Brooklyn’s Favorite Ice Cream Shop, by Brian Smith, Jackie Cuscuna and Lauren Kaelin, published by Stewart Tabori & Chang © 2014, photos: ©Lucy Schaeffer)

Friuli Nera Grappa with Ice Cream or Sorbet, Straw Wine with Raspberry Delice, Pairings at Yauatcha, London

Longtime favorite London patissier-chocolatier William Hurley is one of the winners in pastry category of Royal Academy of Culinary Arts awards of excellence 2014.

I was more surprised to see 2 Chinese restaurants from London, Hakkasan and Yauatcha (both owned by Hakkasan group) among the pastry winners roster.

While I could not find Hakkasan dessert menu, i liked the fact that each dessert selection at Yauatcha is listed with a suggested wine or liquor pairing (and each pairing alcohol content)

For example: 

Raspberry delice
raspberry, Manjari chocolate, lychee
Recommended wine: Straw Wine, de Trafford 2010
Stellenbosch, South Africa 11%


Selection of ice cream and sorbet
Recommended grappa: Domenis Storcia Nera Grappa
Friuli, Italy 40%
£8.00 glass 70 ml

Mandarin macadamia orange confit

It might help diners hesitating on what to drink with dessert.

Awards ceremony is taking place at Claridge's on July 16.

(* Photo pf Mandarin Macadamia dessert from Yauatcha London Facebook page)

Coconut Twist on Waldorf Salad, Citrus Cabbage Salad with Orange Coconut Dressing by Pat Crocker

This first excerpt from from soon to be published Coconut 24/7 (Harper 360, US Edition, August 2014) by Pat Crocker gives a coconut twist to an old classic.

Citrus Cabbage Salad with Orange Coconut Dressing

Makes 6 servings

Here’s a new twist on an old favourite, the Waldorf salad. The Orange Coconut Dressing really makes this version come alive.

4 cups thinly sliced cabbage
2 cups shredded carrot
2 apples, finely chopped
1/2 cup coarsely chopped dates
1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1/4 cup shredded unsweetened coconut, fresh or dried
1 cup Orange Coconut Dressing (page 152)

Citrus Cabbage Salad image_CROCKER

1. In a salad bowl, combine cabbage, carrot, apples, dates, walnuts and coconut. Drizzle with dressing and toss to coat well

Side Note: You’ll find several interesting varieties of cabbage at farm stands and farmers’ markets.
I like to use red cabbage in this recipe, but you can experiment with Savoy, or bok choy.

(* Reproduced with permission from Coconut 24/7 'Easy Ways to Look and Feel Better' by Pat Crocker-US edition published by Harper 360, August 2014)

Repeat Post, How to Carve Ducks and Geese by Hank Shaw from Duck Duck Goose

Repeat post, in case you missed this when we shared it a while back, A little lesson on How to Carve Ducks and Geese from Duck, Duck, Goose Recipes and Techniques for Cooking Ducks and Geese, both Wild and Domesticated (Ten Speed Press, October 2013) by Hank Shaw.

Practice over the week-end

How to carve ducks and geese?

Carving a duck is pretty much the same as carving a chicken or turkey. There are lots of ways to go about it, but this is what I do.

With the bird breast up, take off the legs and wings the same way you would when breaking down a whole duck (see page 8), slicing the skin between the breast and leg into the open area beneath. Use the point of the knife to locate the ball-and-socket joint that holds the leg to the body. Pop the joint by moving the leg downward.

Slip the knife around the joint from the tail end of the bird. once the leg is free from its socket, use the point of the knife to free it from the body, making sure to cut out the “oyster,” the oval knob of meat in front of the ball joint. Do this for both legs.

How to Carve Ducks and Geese

To remove the wings (usually just the drumette), turn the duck over to reveal the curved saber bone along its back; this is the equivalent of its shoulder blade. Slice along this bone toward the neck of the duck, feeling with the point of your knife for the joint that attaches the wing to the body. Use the point of your knife to separate the wing from the joint, taking care to cut out as little of the breast meat as possible. Do this for both wings.

For the breast, take the whole breast off first and then slice it. Start by cutting each half free. Begin at the keel bone, which separates the breast halves, and slice down along the keel bone, tapping the point of your knife against the breastbone. Start in the middle of the breast and work toward the tail end, then work the other way, toward the wishbone. When you get to the wishbone, use the knife point to cut around it and then down to where the wing was. Free the breast from the carcass with short
strokes of the knife. once it’s free, peel off the tender. eat it, as it is the cook’s treat. Slice the rest of the breast on the diagonal, to get the best ratio of skin to meat. once you’re finished, don’t forget to save the carcass for stock!

(* Reprinted with permission from Duck, Duck, Goose by Hank Shaw, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. Photography (c) 2013 by Holly A. Heyser)

Tuscany is Far, Pick Your Own Picnic at Green Mountain Girls Farm, Northfield, VT, July 19

Tuscany is far (in miles if not in travel hours).

Don't despair East Coast city dwellers, you can Pick Your Own Picnic at Green Mountain Girls Farm in Northfield, VT.


Date: July 19, 2014 from 11 am to 1 pm

Cost: $20 per adult, $10 per child

(* Photo of Green Mountain Girls Farm from event page)

Serve with side of Huancaina Sauce, Cassava and Cheese Croquettes from Ceviche Peruvian Kitchen

One of the oldest tubers grown in Peru comes to life in this Bolas de Yuca recipe from Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, May 27, 2014) by Martin Morales.


Cassava is believed to be one of the oldest tubers grown in Peru. You might recognize it by its other name, yuca. You can buy it fresh from some West Indian or African markets or frozen from Indian shops.


9 oz / 250 g cassava, peeled, fibrous parts discarded, and cut into chunks
1 tbsp amarillo chile paste (page 226)
3 cloves garlic, crushed
21/2 tsp / 25 g butter
1 egg yolk
Juice of 1 lime
Scant 2 oz / 50 g aged Cheddar cheese
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
1 portion Huancaina Sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 egg
Scant 1/2 cup / 50 g panko or dried bread crumbs
All-purpose flour, for dusting

CPKT Bolas de Yuca - Cassava and Cheese Croquettes image p 47

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and add some salt. Add the cassava and cook until it is soft; this should take at least 30 minutes. Drain the cassava and mash (using a food mill if possible) immediately while it is very hot. Add the chile paste, garlic, butter, egg yolk, and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper and mix thoroughly.

When the mixture has cooled down and firmed up a bit, divide it into 8 equal portions. Cut the cheese into 8 equal cubes. Use your hands to mold each portion of cassava mixture around each cube of cheese so that the cheese is completely encased by the cassava mixture. Shape into balls roughly the size of golf balls.

For the coating, break the egg into a shallow bowl and beat lightly. Put the bread crumbs in a second shallow bowl. Dust the balls in the flour and then dip each one into the egg and then in the bread crumbs.

If you have a deep fryer, heat the vegetable oil to 340°F / 170°C. If not, pour the oil to a depth of about 2 inches / 5 cm into a large, deep saucepan, making sure that it is no more than half full. To test if the oil is hot enough, drop in a cube of bread; if it sizzles and turns golden, the oil is ready.

Fry the balls in the hot oil, turning them, until they are golden brown all over. Cook in batches to avoid overcrowding. 

Drain the croquettes on paper towels and serve while still hot with a side of Huancaina Sauce.


This basic chile paste works with any of the chiles on page 225, but the pastes you’ll find used most often in this book are made with amarillo, panca, or rocoto.

Put 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a large, heavy saucepan. Heat over medium heat and then add 31/2 oz / 100 g frozen or fresh seeded chiles of your choice or 1 tbsp / 35 g reconstituted seeded and roughly chopped dried chiles, and 1/2 a finely chopped small onion. Sauté over low heat for about 10 minutes, stirring regularly.

Add 2 crushed garlic cloves and sauté for 5 minutes until everything is very soft, being careful to make sure it doesn’t take on any color.

Put the contents of the saucepan into a food processor or blender and blitz until smooth. Store in the fridge in a sterilized jar (see Notes).

Makes about 3/4 cups / 190 g.

This is one of Peru’s great sauces. At Ceviche, we serve it as a dip alongside fried cassava or stirred through Macaroni with Huancaina and Cheese Sauce (page 116).

Heat a dash of olive oil in a frying pan over medium and sauté 1 chopped small white onion and 1 clove garlic until translucent. Transfer to a food processor or blender, add 4 tablespoons amarillo chile paste (page 226), 7 tablespoons / 100 ml vegetable oil, 13/4 oz / 50 g Fresh Cheese (page 239) or feta cheese, and 11/2 cups / 350 ml evaporated milk, and blitz until smooth. Add 3/4 cup / 50 g crushed cream crackers (or water crackers) and blitz again. Add more oil, salt, crackers, or even a squeeze of lime if needed to ensure you have the right balance of flavors and creaminess.

Makes about 2 cups / 500 ml.

(* “Reprinted with permission from Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen by Martin Morales -Ten Speed Press, © 2014- Photo credit: Paul Winch-Furness

Bird's Eye View of Tokyo Comings and Goings, Tiny Tokyo by Ben Thomas

A megalopolis can feel overwhelming at times.

With Tiny Tokyo (Chronicle Books, March 2014) Australian photographer Ben Thomas shares bird's eye-views of Tokyo using 'tilt-shift' photography technique as part of his CityShrinker experiments.


Miniature views of Tokyo for Tokyo Thursdays # 288

Previously: Sake your 4th of July with Green Tea Sake-Tini courtesy of Palais des Thes NY