Posts from May 2014

Friday Korean Style Duck Dinner, Duck Bulgogi Recipe from Duck, Duck, Goose

We previously shared German Style Goose Meatballs recipe Duck, Duck, Goose Recipes and Techniques for Cooking Ducks and Geese, both Wild and Domesticated (Ten Speed Press, October 2013) by Hank Shaw.

How about a Friday Korean style duck dinner?

Duck Bulgogi

Bulgogi is one of the national dishes of Korea, though this is not an authentic version. It is an adaptation of an adaptation. Back in the 1960s, my mom and dad were invited to a barbecue at the home of a Korean War veteran and his Korean wife, who served their guests an authentic bulgogi. There is a reason this is a popular dish in Korea, and it was a hit that day, too. But all mom could get from the host was a list of ingredients, not the full recipe.
So mom did the best she could, and it eventually gelled into a dish that I remember longing for as a child: savory sweet, garlicky, and a little sticky. Mom made it with flank steak or London broil. I’ve since made it with venison, antelope, beef, and, yes, duck.
This is one of the easiest recipes in this book, and works with any skinless red meat. If you are serving a crowd, a domestic or Canada goose breast would be ideal.


¼ cup rice vinegar
⅓ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
4 green onions, white and green parts, chopped
2 tablespoons peeled and chopped fresh ginger
5 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons sugar
2 pounds skinless duck breasts
kimchi and cooked white rice, for serving
Black sesame seeds, for garnish, optional

Duck Bulgogi

In a blender, combine the vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, onions, ginger, garlic, and sugar and puree until smooth. Put the duck breasts in a container just large enough to accommodate them, pour in the marinade, and turn to coat evenly. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

When you are ready to cook, set up the grill as directed on page 62. Remove the duck breasts from the marinade, pat dry, and set aside. Pour the marinade into a small saucepan, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and boil for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Coat the duck breasts with a little oil as directed in the grilling instructions, then grill as directed.
Transfer the duck breasts to a cutting board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes.

Slice the breasts thinly and arrange on dinner plates along with the kimchi and rice. Drizzle the hot marinade over the duck, then sprinkle the sesame seeds over everything.

Serve with a cold lager or pilsner.

(* Reprinted with permission from Duck, Duck, Goose by Hank Shaw, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. Photography (c) 2013 by Holly A. Heyser)

Margaux Holds Rouge Noir 'Menetou-Salon' and Les Charmes 'Pouilly Fume' at Arms Length

As in past few wine tastings I had the chance to attend, I captured photos of a few favourite wines at Spring to Loire Loire Valley Wines event today in New York.

Margaux Nicolle holds Rouge Noir, Domaine de Chatenoy by Xavier Flouret (2011, from 'Menetou-Salon appellation) and Domaine Chatelain "Les Charmes" (2011, from Pouilly-Fume appellation) at arms length.

Margaux, loire tasting

Rouge Noir by Xavier Flouret (2011) is 100% Pinot Noir, a full bodied red, earthy with lively tannins...around $23 retail.

"Les Charmes" Domaine Chatelain (2011) is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, a mouth filling white with wide range of aromas...Around $22 retail.

Kasei Cooking Set to Ichinotani Helmet, WA: The Essence of Japanese Design

In his opening essay to WA: The Essence of Japanese Design (Phaidon Press, March 2014), product and graphic designer Kenya Hara notes that " extreme plainness-emptiness- can invite a variety of interpretations...This kind of emptiness is reflected in Japan's architecture, spaces, gardens, ikebana and poetry, as well as contemporary design."

Kenya Hara contrasts Japanese 'emptiness' approach with American- European 'simplicity' trend.

With Japan's rich design history, he wonders why Japan has no Design Museum of its own and is advocating along with other local designers for the creation of such a place.

Rather than present items chronologically, WA groups them around materials (wood, paper, metal, ceramics, synthetics, fibers, textiles) to highlight "connection between design and material in Japan."

Wood, Bamboo, Lacquer chapter opens with photograph of huge Sacred Rope (Shimenawa) 17th Century, at Izumo Taisha Shinto Shrine in Shimone prefecture.

Ichinotani helmet

Less peaceful yet striking Ichinotani Helmet (Momoyama-Edo period, 16th-17th century) in Metal chapter also uses lacquered leather and laces.

It is followed by Katsura Imperia Villa door handles (Edo period, 17th century).

Kasei cooking set

Getting back to a topic more frequent here than soldiers helmets, the Kasei Cooking Set with Mesh Design (Edo period) brings us all the way to 18th century (Soetsu V, attribution), a beautiful lacquered wood work.

The 'emptiness' aspect is fully explored in a contemporary setting with Ceremony Space (1986) by Toshiyuki Kita (lacquered wood, tatami mats).

Ceremony space

I will not spoil your fun and let you discover the other many things and objects that make WA a voyage of discovery. 

WA: The Essence of Japanese Design is a collaboration between Rossella Menegazzo, associate Professor of East Asian Art at the Unniversita degli Studi of Milan and Stefania Piotti who has worked as a translator, scientific coordinator on Japanese exhibits as well as editor of Japanese themed books.

Book is printed on craft paper and bound in traditional Japanese style.

Wowed by WA for Tokyo Thursdays # 283

Dairy Free, Gluten Free Pasta Alfredo, Almond Milk Alfredo from 'Almonds Every Which Way'

One last taste of Almonds Every Which WayMore than 150 Healthy-Delicious Almond Milk, Almond Flour and Almond Butter Recipes (Da Capo Lifelong, March 2014) by Cheeky Kitchen Brooke McLay after No-Bake One Bite Vanilla Almond Butter Cups...

Almond Milk Alfredo

(Dairy-free, gluten-free, grain-free, paleo, vegan, vegetarian)

Pasta lovers, unite! This simple alfredo sauce takes the cream and cheese out of the classic version but retains so much flavor, you won’t miss all the fat! Gluten-free eaters will want to serve this over g-free pasta. If you’re watching your carb content, or just want to boost the veggies in your life, try spooning this sauce over spaghetti squash or zucchini ribbons and serving it with the No-Meat Neatballs (page 150).

4 tablespoons butter or Earth Balance
1 shallot, finely chopped
2 ½ tablespoons arrowroot powder or cornstarch
1 cup vegetable stock
2 cups unsweetened almond milk
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
16 ounces fettuccine, cooked
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
¼ cup chopped Italian parsley


1. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter and shallots together until the shallots are softened and aromatic, about 2 minutes.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the arrowroot powder and vegetable stock, then pour it into the skillet. Whisk in the almond milk and nutritional yeast. Cook it just until the sauce thickens and is steamy. If you're using cornstarch, whisk just until the sauce begins to boil and thicken.

3. Remove from the heat and serve it over the fettuccine. Sprinkle with nutmeg, salt, and freshly ground pepper to taste. Garnish with chopped parsley.

Makes 6 servings

Per serving
(1/6 recipe, sauce only)
Calories: 475
Calories from Fat: 105
Total Fat: 11.7g, 18%
Saturated Fat: 5.3g, 27%
Total Carb: 75.6g, 25%
Dietary Fiber: 1.4g, 5%
Sugars: 0g
Protein: 16.6g
Cholesterol: 114mg, 38%
Sodium: 353mg, 15%

(Recipe from Almonds Every Which Way by Brooke McLay. Reprinted with permission from Da Capo Lifelong, © 2014, Photo Credits: Brooke McLay, Franklin Bennett, and Melanie North.)

On Loan from Alfaia restaurant, Garlic and Cilantro Soup from My Rio de Janeiro

Want a full flavoured soup for lunch or to kick off dinner, here's a recipe from  from My Rio de Janeiro (Kyle Books USA, November 2013) by Leticia Moreinos Schwartz , on loan from Alfaia restaurant which offers Portuguese style food in Copacabana.

Açorda Alantejana
Garlic and Cilantro Soup with Poached Eggs and Croutons

This soup, another dish with a Portuguese influence, is one I can always rely on, as most of the ingredients will already be at hand at my house. I eat this soup at Alfaia, where they make it with water rather than stock, giving the garlic the duty of flavoring the broth, but I find that chicken stock elevates it to a whole new level, making for a rich, full, fragrantly deep soup with a flavor that can only come from a good stock. Then there is the cilantro, which is one of the most commonly used herbs in Brazil. If you’re not a fan of cilantro, you can substitute the same amount of parsley leaves or 2 cups shredded collard greens.

Serves 4


2 cups crustless bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
4 large eggs
3 garlic cloves, finely minced
5 cups chicken stock
5 cups packed fresh cilantro leaves

Garlic and Ciltrano

Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Place the bread cubes in a medium bowl and drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over them. Season with salt and pepper and toss to coat with the oil. Place in the oven and toast, stirring once halfway through, until the bread cubes just begin to get crisp, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.

Fill a bowl with ice and water. Bring a saucepan of water to a simmer over medium heat, add the vinegar, and mix well. Break each egg into a cup or ramekin and gently transfer the eggs from the bowls into the simmering water, coming as close as you can to the water as you add them. Poach the eggs until the whites are set but the yolks remain runny, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove each egg from the simmering water and transfer to the iced water bath for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels and cover loosely with foil.

In a large saucepan, heat the remaining ¼ cup olive oil over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until it just starts to turn golden and become fragrant, about 3 minutes. Slowly stir in the chicken stock and season with salt and pepper.

Add the cilantro leaves just as you are ready to serve. Divide the toasted bread cubes and eggs among the soup bowls, ladle the soup on top, and serve.

RESTAURANT: Restaurante Alfaia
R. Inhangá, 30 – Copacabana

(* Recipe from My Rio de Janeiro by Leticia Moreinos Schwartz-Kyle Books USA, November 2013- Food photography by Kate Sears, all rights reserved)

All Vinyl DJ Sets at Dust and Grooves free book launch party, Proud Archivist, London, May 23

Vinyl junkies and vinyl voyeurs rejoice.

To celebrate the world release of Dust and Groves, Adventures in Record Collecting by Eilon Paz, the Proud Archivist space in London is throwing a book launch party.


Event on Friday, May 23 includes a photo exhibit, a book signing and of course all vinyl DJ sets by by "OLLIE TEEBA (The Herbaliser), JONNY TRUNK & DOM SERVINI (Wah Wah 45s), COLLEEN 'COSMO' MURPHY (Classic Album Sundays), KID DYNO (The Daily Diggers) and Sheila B. (Cha Cha Charming)."

Dust and Grooves book launch party is Free yet RSVP is required.

Gallow Green 'Spring to Loire' Rooftop Wine Tasting on my Calendar, New York, May 15

It's been a while since I attended a Loire Valley Wines only event.

So after morning meetings in the city, I am really looking forward to Spring to Loire tasting on May 15, 2014 in New York.

Better even, it takes place in Gallow Green, rooftop bar-restaurant at McKittrick Hotel.


Seems like rain is in the forecast for Thursday, hopefully before and after.

Details on participating producers are scant at this time.

Loire valley wines

Tasting is for Trade and Media only...

( * Gallow Green image from Gallow Green Facebook Page)

Accidental Recipe, Bottoms Up Rice from 'A Mouthful of Stars' by Kim Sunee

After Burrata with Roasted Cherries from A Mouthful of Stars (Andrews McMeel, May 2014) by Kim Sunee, we go from sweet to savory and an accidental recipes.

Bottoms Up Rice

Serves 4 to 6

WHEN I WAS FIRST ADOPTED, I would often forgo cookies and milk and ask instead for a snack of steamed rice with just a pat of butter. And ever since I could stand by my grandfather’s side and watch him cook, I’ve experimented with rice in all its forms. This is one of my favorite ways to offer the grain, both for flavor and presentation.

Some of the best dishes are the result of a beautiful blunder: Enter the French Tatin sisters and their famous upside-down apple tart. Once, I got distracted and forgot about a pot of rice on the stove and was pleasantly surprised to discover that with some modification, the mistake would soon become an oft-requested dish. This rice is delicious thanks to the golden crust that forms when cooking the grains a second time. This “golden bottom” goes by other names, including tadig, concolón, soccarat, and nurungji in Korean. I like shallots for the crust, but any thinly sliced white or yellow onion would also be good; it’s best not to enlist scallions for this adventure. Some Persian friends use thinly sliced potato, lettuce leaves, or even very slim slices of bread to create the lovely buried treasure. Layer the bottom as nicely as possible, since it will be the top of the dish once it’s turned out. The technique may seem difficult at first, but once you’ve made this rice several times, you’ll become addicted.

For color and flavor, toss in a few saffron threads that have soaked in warm water. I make this in a heavy-bottomed nonstick 10-inch skillet to make turning out the rice easier.

1¼ cups long-grain rice (preferably basmati or jasmine)
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¾ cup halved and thinly sliced shallots or yellow onion
Flaky finishing salt, for serving


1. Rinse the rice under running water several times, until the water is clear; drain.

2 Add the rinsed rice, 2¼ cups water, and the salt to a 10-inch nonstick skillet and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 14 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Empty the rice into a large bowl, draining any excess water. Wipe out the bottom of the pan with a paper towel. Heat the oil and butter in the skillet over medium-high heat until frothy. Add the shallots, stirring occasionally, and let cook for about 3 minutes. Spread the shallots in a single layer across the bottom of the skillet. Gently and evenly spread the rice over the shallots, smoothing the top with a rubber spatula or large spoon. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and cook on medium-high heat for 2 minutes. You want the heat high enough to crisp and toast the rice and shallot layer without burning it. Decrease the heat to the lowest setting and let steam, covered, for another 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the rice sit, covered, for another 5 minutes or so, until ready to serve.

3. To serve, carefully and swiftly turn the rice over onto a serving platter, like an upside-down cake, so that the golden side is bottoms up. Serve at once with a sprinkle of flaky finishing salt.

(* Recipe from A Mouthful of Stars: A Constellation of Favorite Recipes from My World Travels by Kim Sunee -published by Andrews McMeel, May 2014- photographs by Leela Cyd...all rights reserved)

Invitation to Civita del Bere Tasting in Florence on May 14, Too Bad I Cannot Fly there Midweek

The italian 'wine and food culture' magazine Civita del Bere celebrates its 40th anniversary and they were kind enough to invite me to 'Protagonists of a Renaissance', a tasting in Florence on May 4, 2014.

It will feature established and up-and-coming wineries showcasing special bottles, best vintages and novelties.


Food by chef Vito Mollica of Il Palagio will be served.

Too bad I cannot take off for Italy, midweek.