Last Friday, I had a very interesting talk with Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller, authors of Shaken not Stirred (revised paperback edition, Willam Morrow, January 2013).

If you are still mulling about what to toast the New Year with, Original Martini (pictured below).

"The original martini cocktail was made with equal parts gin and sweet vermouth, often garnished with a cherry. If the vermouth is fresh, it is an excellent drink" writes Jared.

Learn more about all things Gin and Vermouth and Martinis at Mixellany...

(Photo credit: Jared Brown)

Scandinavian and Mediterranean cuisine get more attention than Eastern Europe.

We must have to thank the fact that neither Anne Applebaum nor Danielle Crittenden are cookbook writers for the creation of From a Polish Country House Kitchen, 90 Recipes for the Ultimate Comfort Food (Chronicle Books, November 2012).

Recipe below can serve as a vegetarian side dish if you substitute vegetable stock for chicken stock.

Red Cabbage with Cranberries
Czerwona Kapusta z ŹurawinĄ

Serves 4 to 6

If green cabbage doesn’t get enough respect, then red cabbage doesn’t get enough attention. This is pretty much the only thing I ever serve with Venison Noisettes, but it would go equally  well with duck breast.

Leftovers can be used in the duck pierogi recipe.

1 large head red cabbage
3 tbsp unsalted butter
½ cup/120 ml dry red wine
¾ cup/180 ml chicken stock
¼ tsp ground cloves
1 tbsp all-purpose flour
¼ cup/30 g dried cranberries
Juice of ½ lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Core the cabbage and chop roughly.

In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, melt 1 tbsp of the butter over medium heat and cook the cabbage until softened, but do not brown (or it will become bitter). Add the wine, chicken stock, and cloves. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes; the cabbage should be tender.
Melt the remaining 2 tbsp butter (you can do this in a small bowl in the microwave) and mix in the flour to create a paste. Stir it into the cabbage, add the cranberries, and continue to cook on low heat, stirring occasionally, for another 10 minutes, until everything is tender and thickened. Add the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Variation: You can make this same recipe with fresh or frozen (and thawed) red currants instead of cranberries, though you will need to sprinkle in some sugar to taste when you add the currants.

(* Recipe from  From a Polish Country House Kitchen- Chronicle Books, Fall 2012- by Anne Applebaum and Danielle Crittenden, Reprinted with permission of the publisher)

Anyone walking around streets of Queens in New York City, will notice a world of flavors from Greece to Latin America and Asia.

For her latest solo cookbook, Vegan Eats World '300 International Recipes for Savoring the Planet' (Da Capo Lifelong Books, October 2012), Terry Hope Romero, the Vegan Latina who calls Queens home, had not to look far for inspiration.

Pumpkin can be found in many of her recipes from Baked Punky Pumpkin Kibbe to Jamaican Plantain and Pumkin Curry and Pumpkin Ravioli with Spicy Tomato Sauce.

Here's another one of them.

Pumpkin Black Bean Posole Stew

serves 4 to 6

I do love easy-to-make veggie posoles: this Mexican style soup with soft hominy corn topped with fresh
veggies is effortlessly healthy with a combination of fresh produce and pantry staples. The best part is the combination of warmly spiced, brothy soup below and cool, crunchy toppings on top, such as fried
tortilla chips, avocado, tomatoes, crisp cabbage, or toasted pumpkin seeds.

1 large yellow onion, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
6 cups vegetable broth
1 1/2 pounds pumpkin or winter squash, peeled and seeds removed, diced into 1-inch cubes
One 16-ounce can hominy, drained and rinsed
Two 14-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed (or 4 cups cooked beans)
4 teaspoons chile powder, either a blend or a single mexican chile such as ancho
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons lime juice

Toppings
2 large tomatoes, diced
1 ripe avocado, diced
1 small red onion, peeled and finely diced
1 jalapeño, sliced into paper-thin rounds
2 cups thinly shredded cabbage
Long strips of fried corn tortillas or chips (blue corn looks especially snappy)
1 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1/3 cup toasted pumpkin seeds
Wedges of lime for squeezing into the soup

1. In a large soup pot over medium heat fry the onion in the olive oil until soft and translucent,
about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and fry for another 45 seconds, then add the vegetable broth, diced
pumpkin, hominy, black beans, chile powder, oregano, cumin, cinnamon, and bay leaves. Increase theheat and bring the soup to a boil, stir, then reduce the heat to a low simmer and partially cover. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes until the pumpkin is tender but not completely falling apart. Turn off the heat, keep covered, and let stand while you prepare the toppings. Remove the bay leaves before serving.

2. Before serving, stir in the lime juice and taste the soup, adding more salt if necessary. To serve, ladle the soup into deep bowls and garnish generously with the toppings, ending with the toasted pumpkin seeds. Serve with lime wedges for posole fans to squeeze into their soup!

(* Recipe reproduced from Vegan Eats World by Terry Hope Romero- October 2012- by permission of publisher Da Capo Lifelong Books)

A ray of sun on grey December day can be found in the pages of My Key West Kitchen (Kyle Books, October 2012) by father and son team of Norman and Justin Van Aken.

CONCH SALAD, MAN! (P.28) 

“Hey. Hey. I’m Frank, the Conch Salad Man. I’ll sell you the world’s best conch salad!” He was holding a huge white pickle bucket brimming with his conch salad. With no more explanation than that, he reached in and gave me a paper cup full. I tipped back a mixture of finely diced conch, tomatoes, red onions, Scotch bonnets, bell peppers, celery, citrus juices and herbs. The flavors of the sea were in there, too. Living in Key West was my culinary university; I never needed more formal training. The place was filled with honest, in-your-face flavors that came from the Cuban, Bahamian and African-American residents and wanderers who passed through. I didn’t move to Key West to re-invent the cuisine—I came to find a home. In the process, I found a path to both. In this recipe, you will taste the foundation of each. 

Serves 4 as an appetizer

1 pound cleaned fresh conch, diced

1/4 cup fresh orange juice

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1/2 European (hothouse) cucumber, peeled and

minced

1/2 yellow bell pepper, minced

1/2 red bell pepper, minced

1/4 red onion, minced

1/2 cup diced fresh tomato

1/4 ripe Florida avocado, diced, or 1/2 ripe Haas avocado (optional) 

Combine all of the ingredients except the tomato and avocado in a large bowl. Stir and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to allow the flavors to develop.

To serve, fold in the tomato and avocado. Transfer to 4 chilled glasses or serving bowls. 

Ingredient Note: Those of us who have lived in South Florida for some time may remember when conch, freshly harvested from the sea, was readily available in grocery stores and fish markets. My first recollection of conch was watching young boys pulling them up onto the pier at Higgs Beach in Key West. A few weeks later, I learned to prepare a truly authentic Bahamian-style conch chowder using giant conch, or Strombus gigas Linnaeus, a mollusk that possesses a large “foot.”

They meander around on the ocean floor like aquatic peg-leg pirates, “jumping” and rotating to get food. The Bahamians taught us many ways to use this tasty creature and you can still sample fresh conch fritters, cracked conch, conch chowder and even conch carpaccio in Key West. If conch is unavailable, you may easily substitute shrimp in this salad recipe.

(* Recipe from My Key West Kitchen -Kyle Books, October 2012- by Norman and Justin Van Aken, all rights reserved, photography by Penny De Los Santos)

According to the very official Jetro organization Food Pages which invites to discover regional cuisines of Japan, Hitsumabushi (Grilled Eel Over Rice) is a Favorite Dish of Aichi Prefecture.

Locals take a step by step approach to cooking and eating Hitsumabushi:

"Slow grilling a whole eel allows for the subtle flavors of the tender meat to merge perfectly with the savory and sweet aromas of simple ingredients. Locals make sure to partake of the dish in three distinct steps, first savoring the eel and rice as is, then adding half of the seasonings that accompany every order, and finally combining the last of the seasonings, the side of green tea (or in some cases soup), and the remaining eel over rice. The process allows for full appreciation of the natural flavors of the eel as well as a bit of zing."

In a green baking mood, try the Matcha Cake  recipe also found on Aichi Cuisine page.

Getting to know Aichi prefecture for Tokyo Thursdays # 246

Previously:

Tokyo 1955-1970, A Vibrant Art Hub, Art Book as Gift Idea, Also an Exhibit at MoMA, until Feb. 25

(* Photo of Hitsumabushi from Jetro food pages)

Just a few words to wish you a Merry Christmas 2012.

Joyeux Noel!

(* Image is Christmas offerings by Henri Le Roux, chocolatier in France)

Clocking in at low 12% alcohol as Loire wines tend to do, Heho Rouge from Domaine les Hautes Noelles will please many palates and not break your party budget at around $10.

This red blend is 45% Cabernet, 45% Grolleau Noir, 10% Gamay.

Winemaker's tasting notes point to Cabernet bringing structure and vanilla while Grolleau Noir is responsible for peppery tones and Gamay adds fresh fruit flavors.

Sante and thanks to Serge Batard for creating Heho.

Burma (Myanmar) has opened its doors to the world after years of isolation.

Country has rich culture and traditions reflected in its cuisine which comes alive in Burma, Rivers of Flavor (Artisan Books, October 2012) by Naomi Duguid.

I previously shared the Lush Fried Sesame Seed Bananas recipe from her book.

Second excerpt is a staple of morning food markets in Shan region.

Silky Shan Soup [tohu byawk]
Serves 4 or 5

At morning markets in Shan areas of Burma and northern Thailand, there is always at least one vendor selling this thick, smooth, pale yellow soup for breakfast, hot and enticing, often poured over fine rice vermicelli. Alongside they sell Shan tofu, either in large chunks to take home or cut up and dressed as a salad.

You don’t have to restrict yourself to breakfast, however: serve this vegetarian soup at any meal. On its own or over tender noodles, topped with chopped coriander or other fresh herbs, it’s comfort food par excellence.

1 1/2 cups chickpea flour
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
8 cups water, or more as needed
3/4 pound fresh rice vermicelli or soba noodles or 1/2 pound dried rice noodles (optional)
1/2 cup chopped coriander

Optional toppings and condiments:
About 1/2 cup Chopped Roasted Peanuts
1/4 cup Shallot Oil or Garlic Oil
1/4 cup Palm Sugar Water (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons Red Chile Oil
1/4 cup Tart-Sweet Chile-Garlic Sauce
1 cup or more chopped blanched pea tendrils
A handful of tender lettuce greens

Combine the chickpea flour and salt in a medium bowl and add 2 cups of the water. Whisk well to blend and to get rid of any lumps (if you are having difficulty getting it perfectly smooth, press it through a sieve). Set aside for the moment.

Bring the remaining 6 cups water to a boil in a wide heavy pot, then lower the heat to medium-high. Whisk the chickpea mixture one more time, then, using a wooden spoon, stir continuously as you slowly add it to the boiling water; the liquid will foam at first. Lower the heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring to ensure that the mixture does not stick to the bottom of the pot. After about 5 minutes the mixture will be smooth and silky, with a sheen to it, and thickened. Reduce the heat to low and continue stirring for another couple of minutes. (If you are not going to serve it immediately, cover tightly to prevent a skin forming and set aside. When you want to reheat it, add a little water to loosen it, since it will thicken as it cools, and heat over medium heat. Whisk a little as it heats to prevent lumps from forming.)
If serving noodles bring a pot of water to a boil and toss in the noodles: fresh ones will cook in 1 or 2 minutes; dried ones will take about 5 minutes. Lift the noodles out of the water and set aside.

Put out any or all of the suggested toppings and condiments, as you choose.

Serve the soup sprinkled with the coriander. Or, if serving the soup over noodles, place some noodles in each bowl, ladle the hot soup over, and sprinkle on the coriander.

Invite your guests to help themselves to the array of toppings and condiments, then stir it all together and eat with pleasure.

Note: If you have soup left over, pour it into a bowl and refrigerate. In a few hours, it will set into Shan tofu; see page 126.

Palm Sugar Water
Makes about 1 cup

This almost-black liquid is a basic seasoning seen on many street-food vendors’ carts and it gives a slightly sweet and smoky aftertaste to many street dishes, especially those of Shan origin. Make sure you buy darker-colored palm sugar; the darker sugar has a smokier taste and less sweetness.

Pour 1 cup water into a small heavy saucepan and set over medium-high heat. Add 3/4 cup chopped palm sugar (1/4 pound or so) and stir with a wooden spoon to help it dissolve as the water heats. Bring to a boil and then simmer for about 10 minutes. Let cool, and store in a clean glass jar, well labeled, in a cupboard or pantry.

Chopped Roasted Peanuts
Makes a scant 1 cup

These are handy to have when you are making Burmese salads, so it’s worth making a cupful or more at a time and storing them in a jar. Buy raw peanuts (in their papery skins or not, it doesn’t matter)—you’ll find them in Asian groceries and health food stores.

1 cup raw peanuts, with or without their papery skins

Place a cast-iron or other heavy skillet over medium heat, add the peanuts, and cook, stirring them frequently with a wooden spoon or spatula to prevent burning. Adjust the heat if necessary so they toast and change color gradually, in patches; as they heat up, the skins, if still on, will separate from the peanuts. When they have firmed up a little and are dotted with color, remove from the heat, but keep stirring for another minute or so.

If using skin-on nuts, carry the skillet over to a sink or a garbage can and blow over it gently to blow away the loose skins. Rub the nuts between your palms to loosen the remaining skins and blow again; don’t worry if there are still some skins on your peanuts. Pick out and discard any nuts that are scorched and blackened.
Transfer the nuts to a wide bowl and set aside for 10 minutes or more to cool and firm up.

Once the peanuts are cool, place them in a food processor and process in short, sharp pulses, stopping after three or four pulses, before the nuts are too finely ground. You want a mix of coarsely chopped nuts and some fine powder. Alternatively, place the nuts in a large stone or terra-cotta mortar and pound with the pestle to crush them into smaller pieces. Use a spoon to move the nuts around occasionally; you don’t want to pound them into a paste, just to break them into small chips.

Transfer the chopped nuts to a clean, dry jar; do not seal until they have cooled completely. Store in the refrigerator.

Fried Shallots and Shallot Oil
Makes a generous 3/4 cup flavored oil and about
1 1/4 cups fried shallots

Here you get two pantry staples in one: crispy fried shallots and delicious shallot oil. Drizzle shallot oil on salads or freshly cooked greens, or onto soups to finish them. You can fry up shallots each time you need them, but I prefer to make a large batch so they’re around when I need a handful to flavor a salad.

The trick with fried shallots is to cook them slowly, so they give off their moisture and get an even golden brown without any scorched or blackened patches. Once they’re removed from the oil and left to cool, they crisp up.

1 cup peanut oil
2 cups (about 1/2 pound) thinly sliced Asian or European shallots

Place a wide heavy skillet or a large stable wok over medium-high heat and add the oil. Toss in a slice of shallot. As the oil heats, it will rise to the surface, sizzling lightly.

When it’s reached the surface, add the rest of the shallots, carefully, so you don’t splash yourself with the oil, and lower the heat to medium. (The shallots may seem crowded, but they’ll shrink as they cook.) Stir gently and frequently with a long-handled wooden spoon or a spider. The shallots will bubble as they give off their moisture. If they start to brown early, in the first 5 minutes, lower the heat a little more. After about 10 minutes, they should start to color. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally to prevent them from sticking to the pan or to each other, until they have turned a golden brown, another 3 minutes or so.

Line a plate with paper towels. Use tongs or a spider to lift a clump of fried shallots out of the oil, pausing for a moment to shake off excess oil into the pan, then place on the paper towel. Turn off the heat, transfer the remaining shallots to the plate, and blot gently with another paper towel. Separate any clumps and toss them a little, then let them air-dry 5 to 10 minutes, so they crisp up and cool. (If your kitchen is very hot and humid, they may not crisp up; don’t worry, the flavor will still be there.)

Transfer the shallots to a clean, dry, widemouthed glass jar. Once they have cooled completely, seal tightly. Transfer the oil to another clean dry jar, using all but the very last of it, which will have some stray pieces of shallot debris. (You can set that oil aside for stir-frying.) Once the oil has cooled completely, cover tightly and store in a cool dark place.

Fried Garlic and Garlic Oil
Makes about ¼ cup fried garlic and 1/3 cup garlic oil

You can use a similar technique to make garlic oil, but slice the garlic thicker (a scant 1/4 inch), rather than into thin slices, since it cooks much more quickly than shallots. Heat 1/2 cup peanut oil over medium-high heat, add 1/3 cup or so sliced garlic, and fry over medium heat until just golden, about 5 minutes. Lift out the garlic and set aside to crisp up. Store the oil as above. Fried garlic does not keep as well as fried shallots; refrigerate and use within 5 days.

Red Chile Oil
Makes about 1 cup

Chile oil is quick to make and keeps well at room temperature. You’ll be happy to have it on hand to add a dash of heat and color to many dishes. It can also go on the table as a condiment, with a small spoon so guests can scoop out a little to drizzle on their soup or noodles or whatever. Be sure to warn them that it’s very hot.

1 cup packed dried red chiles, soak in lukewarm water for 20 minutes
1 cup peanut oil

Drain the chiles and remove and discard the stems. Put the chiles in a food processor and process to a coarse paste.

Pour the oil into a nonreactive pan and set over medium heat. Add the chile paste and bring to a bubbling boil, then remove from the heat and let stand until cooled to room temperature.

You can store the oil with the chiles in it, but in Burma the oil is often served on its own. For clear oil, drain the oil through a sieve into a clean, dry glass jar and seal with the lid. Store away from heat and light. You can keep the chiles in another glass jar for a spicy condiment, or discard them.

Tart-Sweet Chile-Garlic Sauce [NGA YOKE THEE ACHIN]
Makes about 1 ¾ cups

A standard hot sauce on tables in Burma, this condiment for every occasion is hot, tart with vinegar, and a little sweet. If possible, make it at least a day before you first want to serve it, because when you make it the sauce will seem watery, but it thickens and the flavors blend after a day.

I reach for this sauce whenever I am eating rice or noodles, and I drizzle it over fried eggs. It’s also a great complement to grilled meat and deep-fried snacks. Once you have a stash of it in your refrigerator, you’ll never want to bother with store-bought Sriracha or other commercial hot sauces again.

1 cup packed dried red chiles
¾ cup water
¼ cup coarsely chopped garlic
¼ cup fish sauce
¼ cup sugar
¾ cup rice vinegar, or substitute apple cider vinegar

Break the chiles in half, break off the stems, and empty out; if you wish, discard some or all of the seeds. Place the chile pieces in a small pot with the water. If your garlic is somewhat dried out and harsh-tasting (in the winter months), add it too. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, until the chiles are softened and have swelled up a little. If your garlic is young and fresh, add it for the last minute of cooking.

Combine the chiles and garlic with their liquid, the fish sauce, and sugar in a food processor, and process or grind to a coarse paste; scrape down the sides of the processor bowl as necessary with a rubber spatula. Add the vinegar and process again.

Transfer to a clean, dry glass jar and store in the refrigerator, preferably for at least a day before using. It will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.

(* Excerpted from Burma: Rivers of Flavor by Naomi Duguid(Artisan Books). Copyright © 2012. Photographs by Richard Jung)

Recently opened bottle, 2000 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers from Domaine Amiot Guy et Fils.

I learned from notes by its importer (Kermit Lynch) that 'Les Vergers' was one of the first parcels acquired by the family all way back in 1920's.

Drink some white.

There are small ways to add a festive touch to a holiday table.

Bread is one of them

Here's an example excerpted from Bread, 'Over 60 Breads, Rolls and Cakes Plus Delicious Recipes Using Them' (Kyle Books, October 2012) by Nick Malgieri which i finally received after a long post Sandy voyage.

Swiss Braided Bread

Like fried potatoes in Belgium, this Sunday morning braided bread might be the only food that truly unites Switzerland’s diverse ethnic and linguistic groups. I’ve given the recipe name in the country’s four languages: German, French, Italian, and Rumantsch Grischun, this last a compiled language of ancient dialects spoken in Canton Graubuenden. The version here comes from Zurich baker Reto Hausammann, acknowledged by critics and the public alike for preparing one of the very best versions of Zopf in the country. The precise and creative Swiss have figured out dozens of ways to braid a Zopf. This version is what I consider the most popular and widely seen: a four-stranded braid that has an attractive woven shape. 

Makes one 12- to 14-inch braid

SPONGE

1/4 cup/62 grams warm water, about 100˚F

2 1/4 teaspoons/7 grams fine granulated active

dry or instant yeast

1/2 cup/66 grams unbleached bread flour

DOUGH

All the sponge, above

1/2 cup/112 grams whole milk, warmed to about

100˚F

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 tablespoons/30 grams sugar

3 1/3 cups/450 grams unbleached bread flour

(spoon into a dry-measure cup and level off)

2 tablespoons/30 grams unsalted butter, softened

1 teaspoon/6 grams fine sea salt

Egg wash: 1 egg well whisked with a pinch of salt

One cookie sheet or jelly-roll pan lined with parchment paper 

1. For the sponge, whisk the water and yeast together in the bowl of an electric mixer. Wait 30 seconds and whisk again. Use a rubber spatula to stir in the flour until smooth. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the sponge ferment until it more than doubles, 30 to 45 minutes.

2. Use a rubber spatula to stir the sponge down, then stir in the milk, eggs, and sugar.

Stir in the flour and the butter, cut into 10 or 12 pieces, on the surface of the dough.

3. Place the bowl on the mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix on low speed until smooth. Stop and let rest for 10 minutes.

4. Sprinkle in the salt and beat on low/ medium speed until the dough is smooth and elastic, 2 to 3 minutes. Cover the bowl again and let ferment until almost doubled in bulk, 30 to 45 minutes.

5. Once the dough has risen, scrape it onto a floured work surface and divide it into 4 equal pieces and round each according to the instructions in step 6 on page 186. Set aside covered to rest for 5 minutes.

6. To form the strands for the braid, invert the pieces of dough to the work surface and use the palm of your hand to flatten them to disks. Roll each disk of dough from the far end toward you and seal the edge and set aside, covered, for 5 minutes.

7. Roll each piece of dough under the palms of both hands to lengthen them to about 14 inches, slightly tapering them at the ends. Arrange on the prepared pan side by side.

8. To braid the loaf, weave the left strand over the one to its right, under the next one, then over the far one. Repeat with the strand that is now on the far left. Continue repeating until you come to the end. Once you see the photos, opposite, it’s easy. Tuck the ends under at both ends and cover the Zopf with a towel or oiled or sprayed plastic wrap and let proof until almost doubled in bulk, about 30 minutes.

9. Immediately set a rack in the middle level of the oven and preheat to 375˚F.

10. Gently brush the risen Zopf with the egg wash, making sure to clean the brush against the side of the bowl or cup to eliminate excess egg wash every time you dip the brush. Bake until well risen and deep golden, with an internal temperature of about 190˚F, 40 to 45 minutes.

11. Cool on the pan for a few minutes, then slide on the paper to a rack to cool. Loosely cover to serve on the day it’s baked or wrap and freeze for longer storage. Defrost and reheat at 350˚F for about 5 minutes, then cool.

(* Recipe excepted from 'Bread' by Nick Malgieri-published by Kyle Books, October 2012- photography by Romulo Yanes, all rights reserved)