Serge the Concierge

3 Red Wines that Don't Break the Bank (Spain, France, Italy)

Even with the rise in prices due to a weak dollar, one can still find European red wines that do not break the bank.
What I would call table wine?
Over the past few weeks, I found 3 new options.

First Clua (El Sola d'en Pol, 2006) from producer Xavier Clua, in the 'Terra Alta' appellation in Catalonia (Spain).
This unoaked blend of Grenache (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Syrah (20%), Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo, 10%) and Merlot (10%) is a fruit forward offering, simple and pleasant (around $10).

   

I bought the second pick, Chateau Calissanne (website, French only) as their Rosé was out of stock, I thought I should give their 2006 Red a chance. From the Coteaux d'Aix en Provence appellation, it is a blend of Grenache and Syrah (harvested early September) and Cabernet Sauvignon (harvested late September) from 30 year old vines.

The winemaker describes its robe as fuschia, some wild berry touches to it, fills your mouth with flavors, balanced tannins (around $14).

David McDuff paid a second visit to the property earlier this year and shares his impressions in Getting Reacquainted with Château Calissanne (March 2008).

Last on my list and maybe my favorite of the three Ciacci Piccolomini Toscana Rosso "Poggio Della Fonte" 2005, a ruby red treat with a little earthiness and spice to it.

It is 50% Sangiovese and for the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (not sure what the exact percentages are).

Want some technical facts: It is aged for 12 months in large Slavonian oak casks for Sangiovese and in old barriques and tonneaux for Cabernet and Merlot, blendend in tanks then aged in bottle for 2 months (around $12)...

Recent Red Blends Bits:

No Quatre Quart, De Lisio Quarterback 2006, An Australian Red Blend, Almost Equal Parts

Food Fad of the Week: Watermelon is the New Viagra after Red Wine as Heart Medicine

Way back then there was a drumbeat of reports on the health benefits of drinking red wine, now comes Watermelon as the new Viagra.

Tim Dowling offers his take on Watermelons and Male Plumbing in The Guardian.

It all started he says with a report by Dr Bhimu Patil, director of Texas A&M University's Fruit and Vegetable Improvement Center stating that watermelon contains a phyto-nutrient called citrulline.

Science Daily gives us all the details in Watermelon May Have Viagra-effect (July 1st).

If you don't believe the hype yet don't like to waste food, make a delicious watermelon rind chutney with balsamic vinegar and brown sugar, perfect with roasted garlic (if you want to keep the vampires away).

As for the health benefits of wine, Drink red wine for a better life – but not a longer one reports Steve Connor, Science Editor for The Independent UK (July 4th) based on a study from Rafael de Cabo (and others) at the US National Institute of Ageing titled Resveratrol Delays Age-Related Deterioration and Mimics Transcriptional Aspects of Dietary Restriction without Extending Life Span..published by Cell Metabolism, (yes there is such a magazine) in June 2006.

I hope I did not give you an indigestion of Science.

What would the food or drink remedy for that be? I don't know.

Any suggestions!

On Food and Health: Is Raw Veganism Dangerous for your Kids?

No Quatre Quart, De Lisio Quarterback 2006, An Australian Red Blend, Almost Equal Parts

This Quarterback did not score a touchdown with me.
It did not knock my socks off.
Does not mean it has no qualities.
Being good sometimes is good enough.

Unlike a quatre-quarts, one of my favorite cake to bake when you are in a hurry, this Quarterback (2006) from McLaren Vale In Australia is unequal parts Shiraz (27%), Cabernet Sauvignon (23%), Merlot (25%) and finally Grenache (25%). Grapes are sourced from the Seaview area as well as from the winemaker's father vineyard in Clarendon.

Tony De Lisio credits teamwork as the inspiration for this blend. Different talents and contributions melding to come up with the end result.
According to the fact sheet: "the grapes were harvested, crushed, fermented and aged seperately under temperature-controlled conditions followed by careful blending rior to bottling".
It is designed to be drunk young and does not display agressive tanins.

A good red wine pick for warm days, it should retail in the $16 to $18 range.

On wine and teamwork: Four Hands in the Barrel with Quattro Mani Montepulciano...No Piano

All Over Rosé Picks: From Jancis Robinson to SF Chronicle

Let's start with The Chronicle Wine Selections: Dry Imported Rosé (SF Gate, May 16).

Lynne Char Bennett notes that most of the Rosé found in the U.S is imported and reminds us that Rosé is made with juice from red and black grapes that has had minimal contact with the dark grape skins, which contribute color and a small amount of tannins to the wine".
The SF Chronicle Panel tasted no less than 93 Rosé offerings this year.
The only one to get 3 Stars is the 2007 Loimer Kamptal Rosé Table Wine ($15) which she describes as "Stony slate, strawberry-rhubarb compote and crushed blackberry aromas and flavors. Lean, grippy, taut profile with lengthy finish. A standout for the price. It's 100 percent Zweigelt, which is Austria's most widely grown red grape - a 1922 cross between Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent" (Importer: Vin Divino). I have not tried any of them yet.

Susan Albarran of Moore Brothers had a Rosé drink down (June 9) with some friends.
Her only regret is that she did not serve the Sancerre selection (100% Pinot Noir) first.
The 2007 Corte Gardoni Rosé Bardolino Chiaretto intrigues me for its grape blend of corvina, rhondinella and molinera and its playful label (below).

As for Jancis Robinson in What is it about Provençal pink? she suggests that some of the best Rosé (and the worst as well) comes from Provence. Her grape of choice for a delicate pink would be anything but Cabernet Sauvignon. Her Australian pick, Charles Melton, Rose of Virginia 2007 Barossa Valley which she calls the prototype of this beefy barbecue style of pink" tastes different.

The 2008 Vintage is already available down under.

Related bits: Don't Blush! A Real Rosé from Chinon, Domaine Fabrice Gasnier and Rosé Number 2: Cotes du Ventoux « Cuvée Juliette » 2007

Tastes like Summer: Great Juice from Mr. Batard: Gamay Hautes Noelles

His Muscadet might be more popular but it is no reason to neglect Serge Batard Domaine Les Hautes Noelles Gamay.

I just bought a bottle of the 2007 Vintage (100% Gamay grapes) and it was perfect for hot muggy weather.
Not too high in alcohol (12%), great fruit, a lighter red for hot summer days.

Serge Batard calls it a 'vin de la soif' (a wine for thirsty people) displaying red fruits and black cherries.

Smith and Vine (Brooklyn, New York) suggest you "take a chance and chill this down like you were in the French countryside".

On his (French Only) website, Mr Batard writes that "each vintage is a challenge, it takes a lifetime to master wine...".

He does not use chemical fertilizers or weed killers.

The fact sheet tells us: "This Gamay is grown in the Coteaux d’Herbauges vineyard lying on the northern shores of the Lac de Grand-Lieu. These vineyards benefit from their southwesterly exposure and their proximity to the lake, factors that allow for great ripeness in the vineyards".

You can pay a visit to the property (the cellar) located in the small town of Saint-Léger-les-Vignes (near Nantes) on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Check the site for hours and contact info.

Enough said, find this Gamay and drink it.

A steal at around $12, good for the Consumed to Thrifty.

More Loire:  'Le Bois Jacou', Stands Out in a Forest of Average Wines

Rosé Number 2: Cotes du Ventoux « Cuvée Juliette » 2007

Cote du Ventoux might bring to mind the Tour de France and the climb up Mont Ventoux.
Today we pay attention instead to a Rosé from the area « Cuvée Juliette » 2007 from La Ferme Saint-Pierre.

If I got my facts right it is made of 2 thirds Grenache, one third Carignane and takes a walk on the dry side.
The small domaine of La Ferme Saint Pierre in the small village of Flassan is run by Paul Vendran (pictured below) and his family since 1990  with minimal use of chemicals and great detail.

Hammock Wines in the UK suggests it is perfect as an aperitif or a great companion for salads, spicy food, white meats and strawberries.

Retails for around $15 in the US.

A great Rosé number 2

Previously: Don't Blush! A Real Rosé from Chinon, Domaine Fabrice Gasnier

Serving Wine from the Right and Smelly Armpits?

We do many things out of habit without thinking of the reasons behind why we do it?
When wine is ordered in a restaurant for example, we go through a whole ritual of showing the bottle and its label.
What matters most is that the right wine and vintage are served.
Smelling the cork does not serve any purpose as far as I know.
As for serving wine from the right, is it so that customers do not get elbowed by the sommelier or the server?
Has it got anything to do with smelly armpits.
Would strong fragrances worn by the person offering the wine be a bigger distraction to appreciating the wine fully than body odor?
I could not find any definitive answer on the origins of the etiquette of wine service.
The basics are covered by David Gaier in Ordering and Serving Wine: A Tutorial.
If you have any answers with history to match them, do share them.

Will a consumer brand come up with a deodorant that puts an end to smelly armpits yet offers a neutral scent?
Can you imagine a commercial to illustrate it?

Recent Wine Blurbs: Wine with your Own Stamp made in New York City: City Winery

At 'Grand Fooding 2008' in Paris , Chefs Offer Culinary Delights on June 22nd

On Sunday, June 22nd, Chefs leave their usual haunts and set their tent on the esplanade of the Bibliotheque Nationale de France in Paris.
They will offer their culinary delights to a salivating crowd for Le Grand Fooding 2008, not La Grande Bouffe.

I would be happy to try the lamb with peppers and onions and an asian twist by Davide Barilone of Il Vino, Langoustines from Le Guilvinec in my native Brittany plus a Donburi création par Hisayuki Takeuchi of Kaseiki which calls itself the best sushi place in Paris.

On the sweet side: 10.000 Punk Ice Cream Cones (Ice Cream with Beet and Sesame props) by Marc Bretillot, culinary designer.

Drink wise, William Ledeuil of Ze Kitchen Galerie will serve "Mon Ricard mangue de rien", the Anis based liquor gets a makeover with mango, green apple, curcuma, ginger and lemon.

More down to earth wine producers from Anjou will be on hand to serve their Cabernet.

Also present, Gelinaz! called the most Rock'n Roll European Chefs Collective, not sure what they will come up with...

All that for only 5 Euros...a steal, if you can still get a ticket.

Wish I was there!

The Paris event is one of the 6 Sunday stops on this year's map which marks the 6th Edition of Le Grand Fooding.

Still to come are Nice on June 29 and Lyon on July 6th.

Thanks to Charlotte for providing me with all these details in no time.

Wine under $150 or Wine under $10 (and in between)

With the weak dollar and transportation costs skyrocketing it is getting harder to find $10 and under wines.

Here are a few options for the Consumed to Thrifty.

In Good Imported Wines Under $10, Roxanne Webber (Chow) offers ways to as she puts it 'save money and drink well'. Of the 10, the only one that I tried (and recommend) is the Las Rocas, Garnacha.

Dr Vino offered 9 Wines under $10 about a year ago. I had 2 of his picks Bodegas las Hormigas, Colonia las Liebres, Bonarda (Argentina) and Castaño, Hécula, monastrell, Yecla (Spain).

Harriett Ryan drafted her own Top Ten Wines Under $10 in April 2008 for Mainstreet. She might have gone a little too low price wise and selection wise. I will let you be the judge.

Gary of Wine Library TV searched for Wines Under $10 that Bring the Thunder (in February).

Of the red table wines I can still find in that price bracket, I would suggest the Heartland Stickleback Red Blend (around $9). It was also chosen by A Wine A Week and again our friend Gary.

A lesser known yet great one is La Friande 'Cotes Du Rhone' 2006 (Domaine Jaume).

Being the Agent Provocateur, Mike Steinberger (Slate) shares some Exceptional bottles for less than 150 bucks amongst them.

Other choices: Under the Tuscan Skies: Red Wines: The Blend of Poggiotondo and Dao not Douro, Duque De Viseu Tinto (Red) 2002, No Fado for WBW#38

Wine with your Own Stamp made in New York City: City Winery

If you live in and around New York City, in a few months you will have a chance to create your own private label wine courtesy of City Winery.

After consulting with the resident winemaker and picking the varietal to be used for their wine, up to 200 lucky few (per year) will create their own barrel, a barrel equals 250 bottles.

I am not sure if blends will be possible.

Grapes will be sourced from California, Oregon, Washington, and New York State.

City Winery will also house its own wine bar and offer a light menu including a selection of cheese.

Located on Varick Street in Soho, It will also host live shows and can be booked for private events.

Interesting idea, first discovered on Springwise.

Related: Your very own Vintage of Armagnac...Thanks to 'Ryst-Dupeyron'