Serge the Concierge

Eat Your Broccoli, Message from Paris Cookbook Fair 2012 Poster?

Was poster for 2012 Edition of Paris Cookbook Fair (March 7-11) inspired by May 2010 event when Champs Elysees Became a Garden for 2 days...

...Or are they just telling us to Eat our Broccoli?

Welcome to the garden of earthy delights

In the Belly of the Olive Oil Beast, Extra Virginity Talk with Tom Mueller

Having spent 5 years working on his first book, Extra Virginity (WW Norton, Fall 2011), Tom Mueller shares good sides as well as shady corners of the olive oil world.

After a bit of back and forth, Tom finally found time to answer a few questions I sent his way.

Here's my Extra Virginity talk with Tom Mueller.

Q: Tom, did your piece 'Slippery Business' for New Yorker in 2007 plant seeds for your book 'Extra Virginity'? 

Yes – I knew next to nothing about olive oil before writing that story, though I'd lived in Italy for over a decade.  I started looking into olive oil when I happened to see a video of olive farmers blockading a port in south Italy – Monopoli, to be precise – claiming that fake olive oil was being illegally imported.  This made me want to investigate further.

Q: Was there a moment, a person, something that incensed you, that motivated you to write this book?

Flavio Zaramella, terminally ill w/ cancer and raging at the inequities in the market.  And a hundred or more honest, determined olive farmers and millers, talking about how their customers sometimes called them thieves for charging an honest amount for their oil.

Q: The prologue 'essences' takes us to Mastri Oleari in Milan, can you describe what the organization stands for?

Highest quality olive oil and high ethical standards.

Q: Being around people like Flavio Zamarella at Mastri Oleari or with the De Carlos family where there times when you felt like you knew next to nothingabout olive oil?

Certainly the learning curve was steep at first and I find I never stop learning about olive oil – even 5 years on, every time I speak w/ an expert or visit a mill I learn something new.

Q: If you had to pick 3 of the worst odors/ characters of bad to worse 'olive' oils what would they be?

Rancid (gone off – the most frequent flaw), worm (grubs from the parasitic olive fly inside olives, ground into oil), and musty (mold)

Q: How do farmers/producers who have poured their life, their soul into making 'honest' olive oil survive in a market flooded by cheap knockoffs?

They often don't.  Many are abandoning their groves, and going into bankruptcy.  Those who do make their money elsewhere (eg wine), and take a loss on their oil.  Ridiculuous situation, but omnipresent.

Q: Who are the worst offenders in pushing virgin in name only oils? Is it country specific?

The biggest industrial olive oil companies are all Iberian (Spanish & Portuguese) bottling companies. They often sell oil under Italian labels, but the oil is usually Spanish, Tunisian, etc.

Q: Why is 28.9 temperature important for professional olive oil tasters?

The aromatics in the oil become volatile and therefore enter the taster's nasal passages more easily – it's like warming brandy in a snifter.

Q: Greeks celebrated aesthetic and spiritual aspects of olive oil while Romans concentrated on its commercial possibilities, what is at the root of this difference?

Deep-rooted cultural differences:  Greeks were more oriented philosophical, scientific, hedonistic pursuits, the Romans to business, conquest, orderly human structures. 

Q: If in time of amphoras as oil receptacles one could tell what he was buying, why is it so difficult to sort the bad from the great now?

In large part because the central governments aren't taking the time and going to the expense to police the market.  At times because the big companies have strong political ties at the governmental and EU level.

Q: Are labels, first press, extra virgin, organic, meaningless and how can trust be restored?

Right now they are empty phrases.  Trust can be restored by a minimum of enforcement from above, and a lot of education from below among consumers – that's how the quality revolutions in wine, microbrew beer, coffee, artisanal cheeses, etc,  got started.

Q: How much should we expect to pay for authentic 'extra virgin' olive oil?

Wide range of prices.  Perfectly good, fresh, extra virgin  olive oil should be available at current supermarket prices (Corto Olive and COR now produce it in the states, adn Kirkland at Costco is real extra virgin).  The really grand cru estate oils, esp those made in high-price places like Tuscany, can (inc labor, shipping etc) cost $30/lit.  Much more than this however is markup by the retailer.

Q: Last, name 3 'honest' olive oils at various price points that one should try in the U.S?

See above.

Thanks Tom for your time

Public Displays of Art, Outdoor Project 2012, 18 Artists, Lisbon, Opens February 28ry

Imagine if Time Square billboards in New York were switched from marketing messages to creative displays.

In Lisbon, art takes over spaces usually reserved to advertising with Outdoor 2012 a project of P28. 

Luisa Santos, the guest curator of the project, describes the endeavour in C-Heads magazine as "contemporary art as a Trojan horse in a mass society."

Artists: Adriana Varejão [BR], Bedwyr Williams [UK], Chitra Ganesh [US], Erwin Wurm [AU], Gabriela Albergaria [PT], Jesper Just [DK], Jorge Molder [PT], Leonid Tishkov [RU], Luisa Cunha [PT], Marcel van Eeden [NL], Mário Feliciano [PT], Miguel Palma [PT], Paulo Mendes [PT], Pedro Cabral Santo [PT], Pedro Cabrita Reis [PT], R2 Design [PT], Susana Anágua [PT], Susanne Themlitz [PT]

Grand opening is on February 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM.

Hot Oysters On The Radio, Musically Yours Recipe from Art of Living According to Joe Beef

Frederic Morin and David McMillan, co-owners and chefs of Joe Beef, a Montreal restaurant with a creative spririt and a sense of fun, could not box themselves into the 'recipes' only convention for their first book, The Art of Living According to Joe Beef (Ten Speed Press, Fall 2011) written in collaboration with Meredith Erickson.

They share their take on catering, square plates, horseradish and fancy knives in A Few Theories.

Number 5 covers Hangovers: "Whenever someone in our business comes to work saying he or she is in "top shape", he or she is extremely hung over..."

On Fancy knives in Number 6 they recommend Dexter-Russell (carbon-steel blades, beech handles) as one of their favorites and describe them as "cheap, dependable and still made in America."

Chapter 7 'A Word on Booze' offers David McMillan completely subjective opinion on wine and cocktails and claims "I love red Burgundy wine so much I want to pour it into my eyes."

The book closes with 'Montreal in two days' followed by the Joe Beef Address Book.

As for the recipes, who but Joe Beef would have thought of serving food on a radio. Their way of poking fun at food fads.

Hot Oysters on the Radio

Serves 4

12 big, meaty oysters
Coarse salt for partially filling pan
4 slices bacon, finely diced
¼ cup (120 g) peeled and finely diced small potatoes
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 egg yolks
1⁄3 cup (80 ml) whipping cream (35 percent butterfat)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
¼ cup (30 g) finely grated aged Cheddar cheese
Salt and pepper
¼ cup (30 g) dried bread crumbs
¼ cup (55 g) unsalted butter, cut into 12 equal pieces

 

 

1. Shuck the oysters, pouring the liquor into a cup and keeping the oysters on their bottom shells. Set the oysters and liquor aside. A good trick for cooking the oysters is to fill a big cast-iron frying pan about half full with coarse salt,put it in the oven, and preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C), then heat the pan for an extra 15 minutes. This will help to accelerate the cooking process.

2. Place the potatoes and salted water to cover in a small pot over medium-high heat. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until slightly softened. Drain the potatoes, let cool, and pat dry. Meanwhile, in another frying pan, crisp the bacon over medium-high heat until light brown. Add the potatoes to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes, or until tender. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Remove from the heat.

3. In a bowl, rapidly whisk together the egg yolks, the cream, and whatever oyster liquor you were able to gather. Add the chives, Cheddar, a pinch each of salt and pepper, and the bacon-potato mixture and whisk to mix. Divide evenly among the oysters, spooning it on top. Dust the tops with the bread crumbs, then finish with a piece of butter.

4. Pull the cast-iron pan out of the oven and carefully nest the oysters in the hot salt. Return the pan to the oven and cook for 4 to 7 minutes, or until the tops start to turn golden. Serve immediately.

(“Reprinted with permission from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Fredéric Morin, David McMillan & Meredith Erickson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.” Photo credit: Jennifer May © 2011)

Love Will Tear Us Apart, Celluloid Heroes Version, Japan Society Film Festival, NY, March 2-18

Not wanting to spoil anyone's Valentine's Day, the Japan Society scheduled its 6th Globus Film Series titled Love Will Tear Us Apart from March 2 to March 18, 2012.

What do you get?

"Bad romance, blind love, amour fou! This spring, we screen a series of twisted, obsessive, heart-blazing love stories from Japan and Korea, because, after all, it takes two to tango and at least two to tumble. The 20+ film lineup, mostly from the past decade, includes the U.S. premiere of Shinya Tsukamoto's latest film, KOTOKO, and the world premiere of Koji Wakamatsu’s Petrel Hotel Blue, as well as Hirokazu Kore'eda's Air Doll, Nagisa Oshima's arch-classic In the Realm of the Senses, Yukio Ninagawa's Snakes and Earrings, Lee Sang-il's Villain, Lee Chang-dong's Oasis, and Kim Ki-duk's Bad Guy, among other twisted tales. The complex relationship between Korea and Japan provides a fascinating coupling of national cinematic identities. Although both Japanese and Korean films and filmmakers demonstrate their own unique preoccupations, narrative traditions, structures and cultural sensibilities, a considerable amount of shared ground leads directly to unique avenues of artistic collaboration (Korean actress Bae Doo-Na and director Hirokazu Kore'eda, Kim Ki-duk and Joe Odagiri), ultimately revealing a similar visual grammar and inclination towards the emotional violence that flows beneath the quiet surface of societal restraints."

Non Japanese entries include Vegetarian (South Korea):

"Ominous dreams haunt and drive a young woman to abolish meat from her diet and her household, and even reject her husband, who smells of meat. Her family mistakes her sudden fixation for insolence, and she soon grows despondent, alienating herself from everyone. Her sister tries to reach her, but only her brother-in-law, an artist, manages to penetrate her withdrawn state. Her mysterious trauma ignites creativity and desire in him, and they collaborate passionately on beautiful body-painting art--drawing on her psychological pain but also providing the catalyst for a mystical sexual transformation."

Visions of love and film obsessions on menu of Tokyo Thursdays # 223

Previously: Kibo celebrates Food and Spirit of People of Tohoku One Year After the Earthquake

(* Image from 'Vegetarian' above from Japan Society event pages) 

F***ing Dinner Duos, A Planet of Chefs for Paris Stop of Omnivore World Tour, March 11-13

David Chang gets credit (blame) for title, F***ing Dinners, given to chefs duo for Omnivore World Tour stop in Paris (March 11-13).

I like the 'in transit' quality of James Henry accueille (welcomes) Ignacio Mattos (Isa, New York).

Here's how Omnivore introduces their duo:

"2 young chefs still little known, Ignacio Mattos, an Uruguayan who settled in Brooklyn and James Henry, an Australian who currently calls the East of Paris home, 2 expats who are not afraid to take risks, a must see."

Their encounter will take place at Au Passage a wine bar located 1 bis passage Saint-Sébastien, Paris 11e.

Organizers were kind enough to invite me to join them in Paris during the event. Unfortunately, I doubt I will be able to escape New York for 4 days. 

(* The 'Omnivore' site and most of the 'Omnivore World Tour' program are in French only)

Ginger and Spice, The des Amants, Lovers Tea for Valentine's Day 2012

You get ginger and spice, apples and vanilla, cinnamon too when you treat yourself to The des Amants ('Lovers Tea'), a special created by Le Palais des Thes for a Valentine's Day filled with love.

Aurelie Bessiere of Le Palais des Thés recommends pairing this tea with desserts or afternoon tea time oods such as Chocolate Fondant, Apple Crumble with nuts, or apple cinnamon muffins (for afternoon tea).

Since with the apple and vanilla the tea has a naturally sweet profile she doesn't recommend pairing it with savory dishes.

In the Mood for Love, Toast Valentine's Day with Sweet and Sour Shochu Based Koishisou

In the mood for love, toast Valentine's day with Koishisou, a sweet and sour Shochu based liqueur.

I had my first taste of it while doing the rounds of Shochu producers at Experience Shochu in New York, last night.

This Shochu liqueur by Sengetsu Shozu of Hitoyoshi-City starts with an authentic Shochu base. It gets its red color from natural pigment extract from Japanese red basil (Shiso).

Koishisou means 'I'm in the mood for love' and producer suggests that its delicate red color reminds you of a girl slightly flushed in a sign of love.

No artificial colors, aromas or preservative agents are used.

Love Her Madly, on Valentine's Day Say it With Iced Cookies

Love her madly, on Valentine's Day, say it with iced cookies like these in recipe from Biscuiteers Book of Iced Cookies (Kyle Books, 2011) by Harriett Hastings and Sarah Moore 

I love you madly

This simple-to-ice collection of cookies has been designed to make messy icing look good. They are perfect to have some fun with and send a romantic message at the same time. Write “I LOVE YOU”—
in a mad fashion... and you don’t have to wait for Valentine’s Day!

the instructions are simple...

Squeeze squiggles of line icing all over the letters and hearts just like wiggly spaghetti. * Vary the order in which you add the colors if you like and add little baubles if you want some sparkle. For a more sophisticated look, ice an outline, flood, and dry before icing madly.

 

cutters

letters (in any size you like)
hearts

recipes

1 quantity lemon flavored Plain Cookie dough (see page 33);
makes approx. 16 cookies

1 quantity Basic Royal Icing see page 21)

line icing

eucalyptus
hydrangea
rose
raspberry
pea green
primrose
Aegean blue

embellishments

colored baubles

(* Image and Excerpt from Biscuiteers Book of Iced Cookies byHarriet Hastings and Sarah Moore-Kyle Books, U.S publication, August 2011- all rights reserved)

For a Fleeting Moment, 1967 Spinola Barolo Was Still Alive

I helped serve a quintet of bon vivants earlier this week.

They selected 6 wines to go with their meal.

The Laurent Perrier Rose came first to toast the evening.

Second wine came with a question mark?

Is there still life in it?

We tasted the 1967 Spinola Barolo shortly before dinner.

For a fleeting moment, 1967 Spinola Barolo was still alive, then it was gone.