Since I have not yet finished editing my interview with Nancy Singleton Hachisu (shame on me), I have to make up for it in a small way with a third recipe from her book Japanese Farm Food (Andrews McMeel Publishing, Fall 2012).
Charcoal-Grilled Yellowtail Collar Buri Kama
In Berkeley, for the 2010 Soba Dinner preparations, one morning Kanchan, Christopher (my eldest), and Sylvan Brackett from Chez Panisse (and Peko-Peko Catering) all trouped across the Bay Bridge to check out the freshly caught fish at Monterey Fish. It was an early mission (very early), so Andrew and I chose to stay in bed. When we finally hooked up back at Sylvan’s cooking studio in Oakland, Kanchan regaled us with his tale of grabbing out fish guts (liver and eggs, to be precise) and yellowtail collars from the refuse pile due to be jettisoned. He cackled with glee at his “finds” and shook his head over the American waste. While he did not serve those orphan parts at the Chez Panisse dinner, the cooks were the lucky recipients later that night. Kanchan simmered the eggs and livers in soy sauce- and mirin-flavored dashi. The texture was slightly crunchy on the tongue and mildly sweet in the mouth—lovely. And the boldly fatty yellowtail collars, broiled, were meaty and succulent. Good in the oven, these are even better on the barbecue.
Prepare a barbecue using hardwood charcoal (the fire needs to burn down, so do this a good 45 minutes before cooking). The collar sputters a bit from its natural fish oils, so cook over low heat.
Lay the yellowtail collar on a small clean grate and set directly over the fire. Sprinkle lightly with salt from a foot (30 cm) above the fish (tatejio) and cook slowly for about 10 minutes. Flip carefully and salt the other side. Flip every 10 minutes or so and cook for a total of 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the thickness and the heat.
Alternatively, broil slowly on a rack set over a foil-lined broiler pan in the third position from the top of the oven. Check after 5 minutes to gauge the broiler heat. If the collar is browning too quickly, move the rack to a lower position. Turn several times for even cooking and browning. Depending on the broiler, this will take from 10 to 15 minutes.
Transfer the collar from the grill to an attractive plate. Squeeze a few spoonfuls of grated daikon in your fist to remove excess liquid, mound on the plate next to the collar, and drizzle the center of the mound with soy sauce. Let people dig in with chopsticks as a convivial first course or snack with drinks before dinner.
Variation: Substitute the collar for a similar fatty fish such as salmon.
Taking fish by the collar for Tokyo Thursdays # 255
After hard work you put into getting all the paperwork together, spending time with your accountant and 'most painful', writing a check to the Treasury, you deserve better than a run of the mill cocktail as a coda to your day.
Here's tempting image of Desir Noir Perfect by Marc Jean of Normandy Barriere in Deauville.
...Followed by recipe for Harvard 90's.
Glass: Cocktail glass
Garnish : Orange zest
30 ml Armagnac 1990
30 ml Sweet Vermouth
5 ml yellow Chartreuse
Instructions : Pour all the ingredients in mixing glass,filled with ice cubes, stir then strain into chilled cocktail glass.
Origin : Variation on Harvard cocktail recipe by Bar le Coq, Paris.
The event's introduction turns walking into poetry.
"Amidst the nature protected by Parks, in sign of conviviality, the Walking Festival multiplies 6 Natural Parks in hundreds of events, obtaining as a result a feast ideally capable of eliminating the sea that divides the Coast from the Islands, a sequence of steps that follow one another leading to the discovery of extraordinary places, a meeting between the desire of knowledge and the necessity of sharing ones emotions and experiences."
One of the 6 parks is National Park of the Tuscan Archipelago, considered largest marine park in Mediterranean. It includes 7 main islands of archipelago located between Corsica and Tuscany. They are "small Gorgona, the splendid Capraia, the vast Elba, the white Pianosa, the unreachable Montecristo, the aromatic Giglio with it's jewel Giannutri."
Tuscany Walking Festival 2013 'runs' from April 13 to November 3.
Two very different approaches to photography are on display at Getty Museum with Japan's Modern Divide (March 26- August 25, 2013).
Both surrealist influenced Kansuke Yamanoto and documentary style Hiroshi Hamaya "grew up during the brief Taishō era (1912–1926), a period of industrialization and experimentation that ushered in the modern Shōwa era (1926–1989)."
Kansuke Yamamoto was inspired by "Surrealist art from Europe and produced innovative, socially conscious photographs, poems, and other works that advanced the avant-garde movement in Japan."
In contrast, "during this time, between the international Depression and World War II, Hiroshi Hamaya began to document regional traditions and social issues, primarily on the country's rugged "back coast" along the Sea of Japan."
Japan in Black and White for Tokyo Thursdays # 254
thin slices of swordfish, about 2 ¼ lb, skinned
cup grated caciocavallo cheese
tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
sprigs basil, chopped
oil, for drizzling
For the sauce
ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
tablespoons olive oil
tablespoons capers preserved in salt, rinsed
cup pitted Gaeta olives, halved
Trim the swordfish slices to make neat rectangles, reserving
the trimmings. Cover each rectangle with
plastic wrap and beat lightly with the side of a rolling pin, being careful not
to break the flesh.
Chop the trimmings, and mix them with the grated cheese,
breadcrumbs, parsley and basil in a bowl.
Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and mix again.
Lay the fish slices on the work counter and divide the
filling among them, then roll up and secure with wooden cocktail sticks or
Make the sauce.
Blanch the celery in salted boiling water for 3-4 minutes, then drain
and slice. Pour water into a pan to a
depth of ¾ inch, add a pinch of salt and onion and cook over low heat for 15-20
minutes, until the onion is softened and translucent. Add the tomatoes, oil, capers, olives and
celery and simmer, stirring occasionally for 15 minutes.
the swordfish rolls to the pan of sauce, cover and cook for another 10
minutes. Life off the lid, remove and
discard the cocktail sticks or toothpicks and cook for a few minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat and serve the rolls
hot or cold with the sauce spooned over them.
(* Recipe from Sicily -April 2013, $39.95- by Phaidon Press, reproduced with permission, all rights reserved)
If you have not been kissed before in Paris, here are a few places where it might happen according to Ou s'embrasser a Paris (Where to kiss in Paris, in French only) by Laurianne Barbier (Rédaction Voyages-sncf.com).
She then offers a number of other sites including lesser known Musee et Jardin Albert Khan in Boulogne-Billancourt with its multiple gardens (English garden, Japanese garden, French garden) and mini forests (Blue forest, Golden forest, Foret Vosgiennes) and Butte Bergeyre (19eme arrondissement).
If your lover or better half does not like climbing steep hills, don't take them to Butte Bergeyre (pictured above).
Besides romantic advice, SNCF is also currently having 2 for 1 offer, Offre Duo (French page) for Spring travel on TGV and Intercites trains to and from Paris, Marseille, Brest, Clermont Ferrand, Toulouse, Bourges.
Book your trip by April 23 for travel between April 12 and May 13, 2013.
In France They Kiss on Main Street
(Photo of Butte Bergeyre from Butte Bergeyre piece on Peter's Paris- June 9, 2010)
The April 30, 2013 Queensday celebrations in Amsterdam take special meaning as Dutch queen Beatrix will pass the crown to her son.
Besides the pomp and circumstance, music abounds with parties from mainstream Royal Cafe in Zuiderkerk to hardcore with Reng Deng Deng at Haparanda Fields.
One of the 2 dance oriented options is Loveland Queensday, an 11 hour dance music marathon in Oosterpark with DJ line up including pioneer of Neapolitan techno scene, Marco Carola to French expat Sebastien Leger.
Hopefully weather will cooperate. I wish them a 'dry' Queensday 2013.