Elegance for Dessert, Lacquered Peaches from Lark' Cooking Wild in the Northwest' cookbook (Sasquatch Books, August 2016) by chef John Sundstrom...
I did not have a chance to sample John's fare while in Seattle early August so I guess it's one more reason to pay a second visit to the city.
Lacquered Peaches with Rum Caramel Sauce and Almond Ice Cream
This combination of butter and sugar–roasted peaches, rum caramel, and almond ice cream is otherworldly and is my favorite dessert of the season . . . I think. Almonds and most stone fruit are botanically related (if you crack the pit open of a cherry, apricot, or peach, you’ll find a very small almond-like center) and are very complementary to each other. Use just-ripe (not overripe) peaches for this recipe, as they’ll roast for a total of about twenty minutes.
Makes 4 Servings
FOR THE ALMOND ICE CREAM
2 cups whole milk
¾ cup heavy cream
1 cup slivered almonds
8 egg yolks
½ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon almond extract
FOR THE RUM CARAMEL SAUCE
1 cup granulated sugar
¼ cup light corn syrup
¼ cup water
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons single-barrel rum
FOR THE LACQUERED PEACHES
4 medium Red Haven peaches, fuzz washed and dried
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup granulated sugar
Fleur de sel
½ cup sliced almonds, toasted
1 To make the almond ice cream, in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the milk, cream, and almonds and bring just to a simmer. Turn off the heat and let the almonds steep in the milk for about 30 minutes. Strain the almonds and discard. Return the milk mixture to the saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
2 Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath.
3 In a large bowl, thoroughly beat together the egg yolks and sugar. While whisking the egg mixture, add ½ cup of the hot milk mixture to the bowl to gently temper the eggs. Whisking constantly, add in another ½ cup of the hot milk mixture. (Continuous whisking prevents the eggs from scrambling.)
4 Now begin whisking the milk mixture in the saucepan and slowly pour in the tempered egg mixture. Place the saucepan over medium heat and stir constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula. Continue stirring until the mixture has reached a temperature of 180 degrees F and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
5 Strain the custard through a fine mesh strainer into a metal bowl or container. Immediately place the metal bowl into the ice bath. Stir occasionally until the custard cools to room temperature.
6 Add the almond extract, then refrigerate the custard until thoroughly chilled, at least 4 hours.
7 Process the custard in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the ice cream to a lidded container and freeze for at least 8 hours before serving.
8 To make the rum caramel sauce, in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the sugar, corn syrup, and water. Stirring frequently, cook the mixture until it becomes a golden-brown caramel. Remove the pan from the heat and very carefully whisk in the butter a little bit at a time.
9 While whisking, slowly drizzle in the cream until it is incorporated. Be careful because the caramel will sputter. Let the caramel cool until it reaches room temperature, about 30 minutes. Whisk in the rum and salt to taste.
10 Chill the caramel sauce until ready to use. It will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Before serving, gently rewarm the sauce in a small saucepan until it pours easily.
11 To make the lacquered peaches, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
12 Arrange the peaches in a baking dish. Using a pastry brush, generously coat the peaches with the butter. Sprinkle the sugar liberally over the peaches so they are well covered. Bake the peaches for 12 to 15 minutes.
13 Remove the pan from the oven and pour about 2 tablespoons of the caramel sauce over each peach. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the peaches are tender and the skins are a light golden brown, wilted, and wrinkled, 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside until you are ready to serve.
14 To serve, if necessary, warm the peaches for a few minutes in the oven. Place a peach on each of four serving plates and sprinkle with a little fleur de sel. Arrange some of the toasted almonds on the plate in a small pile and place a scoop of the almond ice cream on the almonds.
CHEF’S NOTE: Read through Ice Cream and Sorbet on page 78 for some general rules of thumb before proceeding with this recipe.
(* Recipe (c)2016 by Johnathan Sundstrom. All rights reserved. Excerpted from Lark: Cooking Wild in the Northwest by permission of Sasquatch Books, Photography by Zack Bent)
You will not be able to, after tasting artichoke recipes like this one from Cooking Blokes and Artichokes, A Modern Man's Kitchen Handbook (Kyle Books, April 2016) by chef Brendan Collins of Birch restaurant in Los Angeles.
Roasted Baby Artichokes With Bacon And Balsamic Vinegar
For the past fifteen years or so, it seems like every restaurant in the western hemisphere has had Brussels sprouts, bacon, and balsamic vinegar on its menu, and I’m guilty of it too. But it’s with good reason: the dish is seriously tasty. When I opened my new Hollywood restaurant, Birch, I wanted to do something equally as delicious but a little bit different. So I substituted baby artichokes, in season in the spring and summer, to freshen up a wintery dish for the warmer months. Baby artichokes have the same earthiness as Brussels sprouts, but with a unique, sweet nuttiness too.
SERVES 4 TO 6
9 baby artichokes (about 2 pounds) 2 lemons, cut in half 8 ounces thick−cut bacon, cut into 1/2−inch lardons 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Kosher salt 3 tablespoons good−quality balsamic vinegar 1/4 cup extra−virgin olive oil 1/4 teaspoon flaky sea salt, such as Maldon 1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper
Prep each artichoke by removing the tough outer leaves and peeling the outer layer from the stem with a vegetable peeler or a paring knife. Cut off the top third of the artichoke to remove the tough ends of the leaves. Cut them in half lengthwise and give them a rub all over with one of the lemons as you work so they don’t oxidize and turn an unappealing brown color.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Place a frying pan big enough to fit the artichokes in a single layer over medium heat. Add the bacon lardons and cook for 5 minutes, or until most of their fat has been rendered. Remove the bacon using a slotted spoon and set it aside on a plate.
Add the artichokes to the hot bacon fat in a single layer and let them brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 10 minutes, or until soft and tender.
Remove the pan from the oven and add the bacon back in, along with the rosemary and garlic. Return the pan to a burner over medium heat. Give your best go at sautéing, tossing the ingredients around; if you drop some, don’t worry, the dog will love you for it. Season with salt.
Add the vinegar to deglaze the pan, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, and let the vinegar reduce until sticky but not burnt, about 1 minute.
Transfer the artichokes and bacon to a serving bowl, drizzle with the oil, and sprinkle with sea salt and pepper.
Tasteful, not wasteful...Celery Leaf Fattoush recipe from Eat It Up!: 150 Recipes to Use Every Bit and Enjoy Every Bite of the Food You Buy (May 2016, Da Capo Lifelong Books, an imprint of Perseus Books, LLC) by Sherri Brooks Vinton.
Celery Leaf Fattoush
This riff on the Middle Eastern pita bread salad uses celery leaves instead of flat-leaf parsley and puts stale pita to good use, too—double happiness. It’s a salad that begs for additions so feel free to throw in any extras that appeal—some cooked veg or meat, chicken, or fish, a few beans, or some nice, tangy cheese, such as feta or goat, would make this salad a meal.
Makes 4 servings
1 (9-inch) or 2 (4-inch) stale pita breads
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil
Zest and juice of 1 lemon (about 1/4 cup)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tomatoes, seeds removed, chopped
1 English cucumber or 2 Persian cucumbers, seeded and diced
1 small red onion or shallot, diced, rinsed under cold water, and drained
1 cup celery leaves, chopped
3/4 cup fresh mint, minced
2 cups chopped lettuce, such as iceberg or romaine
2 cups meal-maker additions, such as cooked veg or meat, chicken, or fish,
cooked beans, or feta or goat cheese (optional)
Chop or break the bread into bite-size pieces. Over medium heat, toast the pita in a medium-size sauté pan that has been coated with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Set aside.
In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil, lemon zest and juice, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the toasted pita pieces and remaining ingredients. Toss with the dressing, adjust the seasoning, and set aside for 5 to 10 minutes to allow the flavors to combine. Toss again and serve.
• Can be made up to 2 hours ahead and refrigerated
My sister and I meet for a “light” supper in Soho about once a month and the evening generally follows the same pattern each time. We aim to eat somewhere vaguely healthy—as we’re more often than not pretending to be watching what we eat—and then we amble through the streets of Central London to our favorite gelato bar and undo all the good we did earlier. This recipe is inspired by a sorbet that I had on one such evening in late summer, the scoops piled high into a waffle cone and dripping sticky-sweet plum juices down my hands—the perfect end to an evening.
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 QUANTITY OF ROASTED PLUMS (SEE PAGE 128)
3/4 CUP GRANULATED SUGAR
FINE-MESH NYLON SIEVE (OPTIONAL)
Once the plums have roasted, let them cool, then scoop all the fruit and juice into a bowl, picking out and discarding the pits, vanilla bean pieces, and cinnamon stick as you do so. Blend the plums until smooth—I find this easiest using an immersion blender, but otherwise transfer to a food processor—and then pass through a fine-mesh nylon sieve if you want a silky smooth sorbet. I don’t mind the odd speckle of plum skin in the sorbet but it’s down to personal preference.
Pour 3/4 cup cold water into a saucepan and add the granulated sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat and add the roasted plum purée. Let cool, then cover and chill in the fridge for a couple of hours before churning in the ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
An ice-cream maker will make a lighter sorbet, but if you don’t have one, simply freeze the mixture in a plastic freezer-safe container, whisking it every couple of hours to break up the ice crystals. Once the sorbet has frozen, break it into manageable chunks, transfer into a food processor, and blend until smooth and light. Return to the freezer container and freeze until firm.
( * Recipe reproduced with permission from 'Summer Berries and Autumn Fruits, 120 Sensational Sweet & Savory Recipes' --Kyle Books USA, May 2016 -by Annie Rigg, Photography by Tara Fisher)
This creamy broth packs a punch, and the first time I made it, I did a happy dance in my kitchen. It also felt like a happy dance in my mouth. The broth is admittedly special and highlights Thai flavors, without them overwhelming one another. The delicate aroma and flavor that comes from galangal in contrast to coconut milk and lime juice create an addictive but healthy concoction.
+ Heat the coconut milk in a soup pot over medium heat and bring to a boil.
+ When boiling, add the galangal, lemongrass, sweet potato, and kaffir lime leaves.
+ Lower the heat, add the spring water, cover, and simmer for an hour.
+ Remove from the heat and let stand for about 20 minutes to absorb the flavors.
+ Discard the veggies and season with the salt and lime juice.
+ Garnish with fresh cilantro sprigs and serve hot.
2 cups light coconut milk
7 slices young galangal
3 stalks lemongrass, cut into 1-inch-long pieces and bruised
1 medium-size sweet potato, peeled and sliced into 1-inch rounds
4 kaffir lime leaves, torn
5 cups spring water
1 tablespoon Himalayan pink salt
2 1/2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
Fresh cilantro sprigs, for garnish
If you’d like the broth creamy, add 1 1/2 cups of coconut milk before adding the spring water to the pot
(* Recipe reproduced with permission from 'Soupelina's Soup Cleanse, Plant-Based Soups and Broths to Heal Your Body, Calm Your Mind, and Transform Your Life' by Elina Fuhrman -Da Capo Lifelong Books- February 2016)
I much prefer hanger steak, with its strong, beefy flavor and pleasing chewiness, to more popular cuts such as tenderloin, which I find bland and even kind of mushy. But unlike with more mild and tender cuts, you can’t just throw a little seasoning on hanger steak and slap it on the grill. This recipe requires some advance planning, since hanger steak is best when it is marinated before cooking. A bold marinade complements the assertively flavored meat and tenderizes it a bit as well. Here I use a red wine with big flavor both to marinate the meat and in a reduced sauce—which incorporates the marinade after the meat is grilled. This way nothing—including all that great flavor—goes to waste. Demi-glace is a highly reduced, flavorful sauce based on dark veal stock. It is a time-consuming process to do at home, so I recommend buying good-quality demi-glace (see Sources, page 345).
Use the widest saucepan you have to make the sauce. The wider it is, the more quickly the sauce will reduce to the proper consistency.
For the Marinade
2 cups red wine, preferably cabernet or pinot noir
⅓ cup sliced shallots
4 garlic cloves, sliced
One 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into coins
Leaves from two 4-inch rosemary sprigs, lightly chopped
1 tablespoon black peppercorns, coarsely ground
2 pounds/907 grams hanger steak, trimmed into evenly sized steaks
For the Sauce
2 cups red wine, preferably cabernet or pinot noir
6 allspice berries, coarsely pounded in a mortar with a pestle
One 2-inch rosemary sprig
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
½ to 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, ground medium fine
1½ teaspoons brown sugar, plus more if necessary
½ cup demi-glace
To prepare the marinade, in a large ziplock bag, combine the wine, shallots, garlic, ginger, rosemary, and pepper. Seal the bag and shake it to blend the marinade. Place the steaks in the bag, seal it tightly, and massage the bag to thoroughly coat the meat with the marinade. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, and up to 24 hours.
Meanwhile, to prepare the sauce, in a medium saucepan, combine the wine, allspice, rosemary, vinegar, pepper, brown sugar, and salt to taste and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the sauce is reduced to one-quarter of its original volume (roughly ⅔ cup), about 30 minutes. Stir in the demi-glace. (The sauce can be prepared to this point up to 1 day in advance and stored in the refrigerator.)
When ready to grill the steaks, prepare a high-heat grill.
While the grill heats, remove the steaks from the bag; reserve the marinade. Pat the steaks thoroughly dry with paper towels. Season with salt. Set aside.
If necessary, bring the sauce back to a simmer over medium heat. Add the reserved marinade and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced to a sauce consistency (the sauce should coat the back of a spoon), about 20 minutes. Taste and season with salt and/or brown sugar if necessary.
While the sauce simmers, grill the steaks for 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium-rare, or the desired doneness. Remove the steaks from the grill, transfer to a cooling rack, and let rest for about 6 minutes.
Meanwhile, strain the sauce and discard the solids.
Thinly slice the steaks against the grain. Serve with the sauce.
Cooking Time: About 1 hour / Inactive Time: 4 to 24 hours for marinating
Zing up your summer outdoor meals with this recipe from World Spice at Home : New Flavors for 75 Favorite Dishes (Sasquatch Books, September 2014) by Amanda Bevill and Julie Kramis Hearne.
Your burgers and fries will taste better than ever with Berbere Ketchup. The mild heat and rich flavors of berbere blend together perfectly with the tomatoes. This version has a notable but mellow spice level, so add more berbere if you want to really feel the heat. And, to turn one sauce into two, just add a few extra ingredients to the ketchup and you’ve got cocktail sauce with a twist!
Makes 4 Cups
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons ground berbere
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
½ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons flake or kosher salt
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until softened. Sprinkle with the berbere and stir to coat. Cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until the berbere is fragrant.
Add the tomatoes, vinegar, brown sugar, tomato paste, lemon juice, and salt and simmer the mixture, stirring occasionally, until it thickens to the consistency of ketchup. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Cool the ketchup to room temperature. You can keep your ketchup chunky and rustic, or transfer it to a blender and process until it is uniform and smooth. Refrigerate in an airtight container; the ketchup will keep for up to 2 weeks.
Note: You can easily adapt this ketchup into a wonderful cocktail sauce. Simply mix 1 cup of the Berbere Ketchup with ¼ cup prepared horseradish and 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice. Serve with your favorite seafood as a dipping sauce.
*(c)2014 By Amanda Bevill and Julie Kramis Hearne. All rights reserved. Excerpted from World Spice at Home: New Flavors for 75 Favorite Dishes by permission of Sasquatch Books. Photography by Charity Burggraaf)