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May 15, 2008

I'd Rather be in Essaouira in June for the Gnaoua Festival

A little magic and music in a different setting can have a restoring effect on many of us.
I was left dreaming of being able to make it to the Gnaoua (Gnawa) Festival in Essaouira in June (26 to 29) after reading Rockin' the Casbah (Steve Dougherty, NY Times).
Call it Moroccan Roll if you will.

The festival site describes Gnawa as "the descendents of slaves originating from Black Africa who established brotherhoods throughout Morocco. They are made up of master musicians (maâlem), metal castanet players, clairvoyants, mediums and their followers".
As for the tradition "the most spectacular and important ceremony is the Lila, whose function is essentially therapeutic" and "during the celebration the maâlem and his group call on the saints and supernaturel entities to take possession of their followers who fall into a trance".
They link Gnawa to Haïtian voodoo and Brazilian macumba.

Here is a short lesson on all things Gnawa (also from their site):

GLOSSARY
Gnawa : plural of Gnawi. A generic term which includes all members of the brotherhood including the master musicians, castanet players, clairvoyant healers and the followers of the cult.
Maâlem : master of the ceremony
Moqadma : priestess
Tallaâtes, chouwafates or arifates : clairvoyant healers
Mlouk : supernatural entities
Guembri or Hajhouj : percussive 3-stringed lute
Aouicha : small guembri
Qarqabats or Qraqech : metal castanets
Tbel : drums
Ftouh errahba : beginning of the mlouk repertory of songs
Derdeba ou Lila : Ritual of possession
Hal ou jedba : transe
Koyo : Pre-Islamic musical repertory

If you plan a trek to Morroco for the event, in the US, Sahara Soul Travel offers a One Week Package that includes 3 days in Marrakech and 4 days in Essaouira during the Festival.
The package does not include airfare and it is not clear if it includes tickets for the Gnawa.

More Moroccan Bits: Kasbah du Toubkal, a moroccan retreat in the Atlas mountains

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