Serge the Concierge

Digestive Walk in Campo Grande after Eating Lechazo, Valladolid 10 Do's and Don'ts

After taking a vacation, the 10 do's and don'ts return thanks to Spanish food blogger SandeeA who offers her 10 Do's and Don'ts on Valladolid.

Before her 10 's and Don'ts, here's a quick introduction to the world of SandeeA (by Sandra):

"Sandra Mangas Hernandez (SandeeA), 36-year-old mom and food blogger based in Spain, I am nothing if not an inventive cook. I was once a disaster in the kitchen, but started improving my skills after my sons were born. In 2008, I started my food blog La Receta de la Felicidad (translated to The Recipe for Happiness) where I prepare recipes for the kid we all have inside."

Do's First:

DO come to Valladolid during Easter to have the chance to see one of our Holy Week processions, declared of international touristic interest. Differently to other places in Spain, the main sign of identity of Holy Week in Valladolid is silence, and it is a cultural and religious experience you should not miss. My favorite is the Sermón de las Siete Palabras (Sermon of Seven Words) which is held, after being announced in verse at different points around the city by a group of fraternity members on horseback.

DO have a walk in Valladolid central park, the Campo Grande, which is a lovely place to go for a walk in all seasons. There is a lake full of ducks, and if you are lucky you might be able to see a red squirrel running through the trees. After a nice walk, make a stop to recover one’s strength at the terrace bar, and there it is typical to have a beer and some calamares fritos (fried calamari)

DO try one our Ribera del Duero wines. The Spanish wine region of Ribera del Duero is one of the most prestigious wine producing areas in the world. Mythical wines made here incluye Vega Sicilia, Pingus, Pesquera, Emilio Moro, Carmelo Rodero, Pago de Carrovejas, just to name a few. You can visit some of these wineries and some you´ll have the opportunity to taste many of these wines and see where they are made.

DO have some tapas! Although in Valladolid you have to pay for them (There are many cities in Spain where the tapas are for free with your drink), they are worth of it. I suggest you having a Roquefort-pork loin sandwich at La Tasquita II, and anything at the Jero: you can just point to the tapas you want and they heat them up for you. They have really creative and yummy tapas. Also if you are in Valladolid in November, you will be lucky to see the International Tapas Competition, the most important tapas´event worldwide. During this week many tapas bars of the city offer the participants´ tapas to the regular customers.

DO have some “lechazo”. In Valladolid, the suckling lamb is famous, and there are restaurants where you go exclusively to eat lamb and the waiters ask you just for the drinks.

Now don’ts:

DO not rent a car. Train station is near the center of Valladolid, you can use public transport, have a nice walk, or hire a bike, and don’t miss the wonderful buildings such as the Academia de Caballeria (Cavalry Academy)

DO not miss one of the most interesting things you can do in Valladolid is attending the Seminci
(Semana Internacional de Cine), the International Film Festival.

DO not believe Valladolid has a true beach when you hear talking about “Las Moreras” beach. It is just an artificial beach near the river Pisuerga, where people try to get a good tan in summer, have a bath in the river, and where you may take a boat which offers a 12-kilometer excursion through the river.

DO not forget to visit San Pablo, and la Antigua churches, which are my favorites… I even wanted to get married in La Antigua, but it was too small.

DO not visit Belaria bakery unless you are ready to gain weight… everything they have is just delicious, my favourites are: tarta aniversario and pastel ruso.

Previously: Let Time Go By, Sunset at Saigon Saigon Bar, Saigon 10 Do's and Don'ts by Linh Le

Let Time Go By, Sunset at Saigon Saigon Bar, Saigon 10 Do's and Don'ts by Linh Le

After a 2 month lapse, today marks return of 10 Do's and Don'ts with Linh Le 10 Do's and Don'ts of Saigon

Saigon is an infinitely multifaceted city. This could be said of every city in the world but from all the places I have traveled, it could not be more baffling than in Saigon.

As your plane surfaces the rice fields, you can already envision the multi-facet aspect by the variety of greens and shades the landscape offers.

From a district to the other, from a period in history to another, the city has never ceased changing faces. District 1 is the most modern, west-inspired, and busy district of all. But just walk away from the main avenues into the surrounding districts and you will feel far in time and space.

Walk around the city. Few people do that, but that is the only way to get to know it Though the walk may at times seem long and sometimes devoid of touristic interests, you will find local markets on your way, typical food street vendors and a life that you really can’t fathom just walking the beaten tracks.  Don’t be deterred by people gazing, it is risk free for you.

When strolling in the large tree-bordered avenues, along the French colonial buildings, through the tiny local markets, from early sunrise to warm dew point, and despite the relentless hustle, you will feel the city’s timeless atmosphere of peace, elegance, and joy.

Which leads me directly to the food subject. Eating in the streets of Saigon is as exciting for any food lover as Disneyworld can be to a 4 years-old…fun, new, endless, infinitely varied, tasteful, colorful, surprising, joyful : heaven for taste buds!

Enjoying Saigon demands that you take your time, that you take it slow. Like sticking to the slowest beat in a fast-rhythm song.

Here are some keys to achieve just that.

DO’S

• By sunset, go and have a drink at Saigon Saigon Bar on the 9^th floor of Caravelle hotel. When there, sit facing the Saigon Church, and you will have a view on the mythic Continental hotel, Rex hotel, and the church. If you have read some 20^th century history before leaving, or “A quiet American” by Graham Greene, the view will undoubtedly be very lively to you.

• Around 7p.m. go to  “Saigon xua va nay” café (‪‪33 Nguyen Trung Truc / District 1). This is a typical café located on a terrace a few minutes away from Ben Thanh market with low tables and chairs. It is a highly popular venue for locals and once there you will be part of a national custom named “nhau”.  Nhau means sitting around with friends, having (numerous) drinks and eating loads of typical playful dishes made for that single purpose. The food made for “nhau” is nowhere else to be found than in the designated places. So please go, sit, take it slowly and stay until wee hours in the morning. You will see street performers, you’ll be able to order food from street vendors if you feel like it. And you will be a real saigonese for a moment.

• Forget about your watch, food street vendors will remind you which part of the day lies ahead. From the 6 a.m. sandwiches, to the 2 a.m. fish skewers, you will have the greatest live food show ever. If you walk by Square Alexandre de Rhodes / District 1 at the following hours : 6 am, 12 pm, 4 pm, 8 pm, 10 pm, you will see a ballet of food street vendors and you can try all sorts of rolls, cakes, and drinks depending on the time of day. My very favorites are the 6 am egg sandwich, and the 4 pm coconut sweet roll.

• If you need to take a time out of the city hustle, go to “Regina Café” (84 Nguyen Du / District 1), just a few steps from the Church. The café has terraces and a friendly staff. Their iced coffee and chocolate are just what you need to start afresh. The atmosphere is calm and peaceful, protected by ancient trees.
• At 7 pm, Ben Thanh market is closing. At that very moment, restaurants will pop out on its pavements. Among them, “Hai Lua” is a must-do.  Try at least their “Banh Khot” and “Banh Xeo” (spectacular) which are southern amazing specialties. The restaurant is very popular with locals, and it’s worth the wait!

 DON’TS

• If you are looking for tasteful, authentic, fresh foods, don’t go to hotel restaurants or so-called “high scale” restaurants. Unless you are looking for the atmosphere and the service, you will be disappointed.  It will absolutely look like your local fusion restaurant, and will be almost as pricey.
• Don’t stick to your 3-meals-a-day routine. Eat whatever you want, whenever you want, wherever you want, the streets offer just that.  Don’t hesitate to eat fruits, rice cakes, pancakes, sandwiches, rice, noodles, soups, desserts…Around Ben Thanh Market, on Le Loi avenue, in the surrounding streets. Street food is safe. You can also go around 610 Nguyen Dinh Chieu / District 3 by noon. There, you can walk around the pagoda “Chua Ky Vien”. You will find local markets and amazing food stalls anytime of day. The place is very typical Saigon, lively and colorful.
• Don’t walk around flashing your jewelry or your Chanel-logotyped tote bag as if you were on Rodeo Drive. Where tourists are swarming, thieves are thriving. This is also true under the Eiffel tower. Apart from all basic rules, concerning bags, money, camera and jewelry, you can walk around and feel safe, Vietnamese people are mostly friendly and helpful.
• Don’t buy your souvenirs in Ben Thanh market or if you do, be aware that many lacquerware, wood-carved objects are mass-produced in China and you might as well find them in your local Chinatown. The best souvenirs to bring back from Vietnam are food (coffee, tea, sweets, fruits, dried seafood…), lacquers (around Dong Khoi Street), embroideries (Close to Dong Khoi also). You can also go to Fahasa bookstores to find your favorite novel in vietnamese, or fast-learning methods to learn the language. Also go to Huynh Thuc Khang street to find Vietnamese (and non-Vietnamese…and sometimes long-forgotten) music.
• Don’t lose your nerves over small arguments. Hotel staff, cabs, and all people working in the tourism industry have a very different notion of time and stake. What seems unbearable to you (like an unfair cab fare, a slow/wrong service…), will be a lesson to learn for them (or a risk-free shot at making some extra money). Patience and a smile will take you anywhere in Saigon.

When in Saigon, I can only recommend you to take 3 or 4 days to dive into the Mekong Delta. Best option is to hire a driver for the ride (Approx. 150 USD including the driver’s meals and accomodation), your hotel concierge will help you find one. If your trip should have only three stops, here are what I really recommend you they should be:

• My Tho : rent a boat with any local company (all prices are equivalent, you can bargain) and visit the small villages on the river. You will see local craftsmen, farmers and you will catch a glimpse of a simple life. It will be a stark contrast with life in the city but closer to the reality of Vietnam, as more than 80% of Vietnamese people are living in the country.

Make sure your guide takes you to a restaurant where you can have “xoi chien phong” (fried sweet sticky rice cooked and bloated into a ball the size of a soccer ball!) and “hu tieu my tho” which is local a noodle-soup specialty.

My address to find both dishes is Trung Luong restaurant (Quoc Lo 1 / My Tho). There is a grocery store at the entrance of the restaurant, indulge in the chewy tamarind, coconut or ginger sweets.

Long Xuyen is the historical heart of the Mekong Delta. Long Xuyen market is one of the most beautiful market I have seen in Vietnam. Each stall has a specialty and it is a semi-wholesale market where small merchants of the

• specialty and it is a semi-wholesale market where small merchants of the delta come and buy their produce. Located on the bank of the river, Long Xuyen market is riveting by the light in between the stalls, by the opulence of its stalls, by its colours and the endless activity of boats loading and unloading. But above all, the food stalls are just amazing by the variety of choice and the freshness of its dishes. There you can have “Banh Tam Bi” (large rice noodles with minced meat and a slight topping of coconut), all kinds of desserts, fish, fresh vegetables…

• Can Tho : located on the bank of the Mekong, Can Tho is famous for its floating markets. They are definitely worth the ride and you will find a thousand ways to go to the market, you can ask your hotel.  However, the floating markets are not my favorite spot in Can Tho. The most staggering experience for me has been to float on the river by 4 am, before sunrise, in a blind darkness, and no sound but that of the still water and the coughing engine of the boat. Our guide took us into the small branches of the river where we could witness the awakening of the Mekong. This ride was topped by the visit of a traditional rice noodle factory just before sunrise. The atmosphere of mystery, timelessness and peace is breathtaking. And finish the ride just roaming in the middle of the market, having a coffee on the boat.

My recommendation for Can Tho is that you stay in Hotel Ninh Kieu with a room overlooking the river. Then you can ask the concierge to book a boat ride for you, starting at 4 am. The ride should cost you around 20 USD.

Thanks to Linh Le for opening our eyes on real Saigon for this return of 10 Do's and Don'ts.

Linh Lê is as multi faceted as the Saigon she takes us through. Born in France, based in Paris, raised in a food-addict Southern-Vietnamese family and raising a multi-cultural family herself, she goes through life as through an endless journey. In this journey she is fueled by love, food and literature. So it is only natural for her that she eats, reads, writes and loves every bit about her ancestors’ homeland. Saigon is her second base, a place where she takes a second wind whenever serendipity takes her there. Linh happily hosts cooking classes and shares her knowledge with chefs. She tells some of her moments and shares recipes in her blog Baguettes et Traditions (Written in French).

Previously: Pa Amb Tomaquet to Ailanto's Fashion, Monica 10 Do's and Don'ts of Barcelona

Pa Amb Tomaquet to Ailanto's Fashion, Monica 10 Do's and Don'ts of Barcelona

Spain had eluded us for our 10 Do's and Don'ts until I asked Monica Navarro, owner of Delishop, to offer her 10 Do's and Don'ts of Barcelona.

We had the pleasure of meeting Monica in New York where she was presenting some of her wonderful Delishop line of gourmet foods.

She was so generous that she came up with 10 of each.

Without further ado, let us serve Monica piping hot 10 Do's and Don'ts of Barcelona.

Do's First:

    DO visit AILANTO, one of the trendiest up and coming Spanish designers, this brother duo has a fantastic store and showroom at C/ Enric Granados. A wonderful tree-lined street full of old-world European charm.   

      
    DO walk along the Consejo de Cien street near Rambla de Catalunya to contemplate small, independent art galleries, frequented by local art collectors.       

     DO have the octopus carpaccio with mashed potatoes at the restaurant, LIMBO, in the Barrio Gotico.  

     DO hop on board the cable car starting from the Barceloneta beach up to the top of the Montjuic hill. On the way down stroll through the recently renovated Botanic Garden.        

     DO go down to the Barceloneta beach, preferably by bike or scooter, stay around until sunset, and enjoy a nice bottle of wine in one of the many beach bars, where local DJ’s spin cool vibes as night falls.

     DO visit PARC GUELL, the outdoor park designed by Antoni Gaudi. Hidden alcoves and awe-inspiring architecture, combined with the best view of Barcelona makes it a must.  

     DO whet your appetite at the MERCAT DE LA BOQUERIA, described by some as the most impressive food market in Europe; and it does not disappoint. If it’s not on sale at the Boqueria, it probably isn’t worth eating.  

     DO get your fill of authentic tapas at a number of local-frequented tapas bars such as, PINOTXO in the Boqueria, CERVECERIA CATALANA, or BAR TOMAS (best “patatas bravas” in town)

Now for the Don'ts    

     DON’T miss the Festival Grec, an arts festival during the summer months of June and July.   

     DON’T order expensive wines. There are hundreds and hundreds of fantastic wines for under 15€.          
     DON’T miss your chance to taste the “pa amb tomaquet”, the local tomato-rubbed bread served with everything. It is said to mimic the colors of a Mediterranean sunset, whether true or not, it is a great example of the poetry of the local cuisine.

     DON’T rent a car. Like any other big city, walking, biking, and public transport are the way to go.  

     DON’T think you can go out dancing before 1am, we’ll all still be eating.     

     DON’T eat or drink at the Port Olimpic area. It’s a cheesy tourist trap.          

     DON’T worry about getting pickpocketed. If you don’t get pickpocketed on a daily basis in your own city where you live, you won’t get pickpocketed here. Just use common sense.     

     DON’T get frustrated if you want to brush up on your high school Spanish but they only speak to you in Catalan, the local language. Ask nicely and any local will switch to Castilian Spanish.          

     DON’T drink sangria or go to a bullfight and think you have had the ultimate Spanish experience. These two things are not very popular in Barcelona among locals.           

     DON’T think that 2pm is too late for a 3-course lunch or that 10pm is too late to eat dinner, it is very easy to get used to, and very enjoyable. Just go with the flow and in no time you’ll start to wonder how you ever lived without a  “siesta”.        

A few words on Monica Navarro:

Barcelona-born, New York-educated, created the Delishop gourmet food brand, following an 18-year career as a strategic planner for luxury brands at a multi-national advertising agency. When she is not busy creating new products and new ideas, she can be found looking for shells on the beach with her daughter or visiting galleries and museums showcasing contemporary art. She is passionate about Barcelona.

Thanks Monica for serving this generous helping of Barcelona.

Lookout for Siwash Rock, Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie, Jade's Vancouver 10 Do's and Don'ts

Out of the goodness of her heart Jade, one of my recent contacts, stepped up to the plate and offered her 10 Do's and Don'ts on Vancouver...

Currently Jade is working on a site dedicated to sustainable food production and the promotion of local community gardens in an around town. You can keep up with her trials and tribulations via her Twitter page...

Do's and Don’ts in Vancouver: 

1.      Do embrace our weather and come equipped with an umbrella and wellies. On a rainy day, my favorite thing to do is walk along the seawall and take in the fresh salty air. Starting from English Bay, make your way into Stanley Park and be sure to stop by legendary Siwash Rock and the Pauline Johnson Memorial (hidden amongst the old growth trees) and finally make a splash at the Vancouver Aquarium.

2.      Don’t go to Granville or Robson Street and expect a cultural experience. Instead, checkout historical Gastown & Chinatown, colourful Commercial Drive, eclectic Main Street or beautiful Kits Beach (below).

3.      Do eat your heart out. Vancouver has exceptional cuisine. My Personal favourites include: Dinestry, Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie, Thai Son, Kintaro, Kadoya, Sushi Hiyori, Guu, Ma Dang Goul, Vij’s, Rangoli, Indian Oven, Sawasdee, La Buca, Phnom Penh, Ukrainian Village, Meat & Bread, Bin 941, Go Fish, Japa Dog, Red Onion, Rodney’s Oyster House, Alibi Room…to name a few.

4.      Don't go to Yaletown. Ok well, do go, but only if you’re the type of person who enjoys paying $18 dollars for 2 teaspoons of crab while petting your purse dog. (see photo).

5.      Don’t be stingy on the tips. For standard service, it’s customary to leave at least a 12% tip. For great service, anywhere from 15-20%+ is good.

6.      Can’t decide on where to eat? Do take it from a local and read up on Miss Your Plane and Wandering Dumpling 

7.      If you are here for more than three days, do drive to Whistler. The sea-to-sky highway is pretty epic.

8.      Do visit Granville Island Market Place but leave your car downtown. There is never any parking on Granville Island and the Aquabus ferry is a much more enjoyable way to get there.

9.      Don’t forget to visit the Look Out for a view of the whole city. This 360 degree tour, from 553 feet high is pretty spectacular.

10.   Do "ask a local" - Vancouverites love sharing their 2 cents, so don't be afraid to ask for directions or suggestions on places to go. Or, you’re too shy check out the Georgia Straight for local events. And despite what you hear at the airport, don’t expect any Vancouverite to speak fluent French. You’re more likely to run into someone who speaks mandarin than French here.

Bon Voyage!

Thanks Jade for turning on a dime and coming up with a great 10 Do's and Don'ts of Vancouver.

(* Photo of Granville Public Market courtesy of Inside Vancouver , all others courtesy of Jane...Check her Flickr photostream for more facets of Vancouver)

Oriental Museum to Lou Malnati Deep Dish Pizza, Chicago 10 Do's and Don'ts by Leela

Food writer Leela has opened many people's eyes on the delights of Thai home cooking thanks to She Simmers. She also contributes to CNNGo.

She is as familiar with secrets of Bangkok as those of Chicago.

Today she was kind enough to share her 10 Do's and Don'ts on Chicago.

10 Chicago Do’s and Don’ts

1.  Do buy CityPASS which gives you VIP admissions to 5 must-see attractions in Chicago: Shedd Aquarium, the Field Museum, Skydeck Chicago, Adler Planetarium or Art Institute of Chicago, and John Hancock Observatory or Museum of Science and Industry. With CityPASS, you save 50% off regular admissions and can skip most long ticket lines.

2. Don’t limit yourself to only well-known museums and attractions. Those who enjoy ancient Near Eastern arts and history will love the Oriental Institute Museum in Hyde Park. The Museum of Contemporary Art is also a great place to visit.

3. Do buy a hop-on-hop-off double-decker tour package, especially if it’s your first visit to Chicago. This allows you to see a lot of the city in one day without the expense of cab fares. Don’t forget other means of transportation as well. The ‘L’, Chicago elevated trains, take you to many neighborhoods worth exploring.

4. Don’t underestimate the cost of parking in Chicago. It adds up! Traveling by car allows you more control, but can be quite costly. Parking in general is costly; it is particularly so at most tourist attractions.

5. Do take a stroll on the Magnificent Mile where you can find various shops along both sides of Michigan Avenues, including the Water Tower. Do visit Navy Pier, especially if you enjoy seeing the city from the Ferris wheel.

6. Don’t eat at the touristy, pricy, and mostly mediocre restaurants at Navy Pier. Don’t waste your money at department store food courts either. And a restaurant on a high-rise building that boasts great view of the city and the lake? Don't waste your money and space in your digestive tract there. I'm serious.

7. Do enjoy Chicago’s famous hot dogs and deep-dish pizzas. Lou Malnati’s, in my opinion, serves up the best deep-dish pizzas in the world. Portillo’s is also a place where you should visit for Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches and hot dogs. Chicago’s famous Garrett Popcorn lives up to the hype and is worth a visit. I highly recommend a mixed combo of caramel crisp and cheese.

8. Don’t limit yourself to just these budget eats, though. Chicago is home to some of the best restaurants in the United States. We have Alinea, which has recently garnered 3 Michelin stars, Avenues which is my absolutely favorite, Schwa which may be hard to get in but is magnificent, and Blackbird which I adore. These fine-dining establishments may be pricy, but if you plan ahead, a meal at one of these restaurants will make your trip to Chicago truly memorable.

9.  Do experience high-end food at low-end price from several renowned Chicago chefs. Xoco by Rick Bayless is a great place to experience Mexican-inspired tortas hot out of the wood oven, freshly-made churros with hot chocolate to dip them in, etc. I also love Urban Belly by Bill Kim. Then we have Grahamwich by Graham Elliot which some people enjoy.

10. Don’t believe that Chicago does not have good bakeries. It's one of those oft-repeated lies. We're not saturated with great bakeries like New York City or San Francisco, but what we do have is great. Visit Vanille, Floriole, and Bittersweet, and you’ll change your mind.

Thank you Leela for taking us on a stroll around Chicago. Another city I have to add to my agenda.

Previously: L.A Without a Car, Gelato Baby 10 Do's and Don'ts in Los Angeles

(* Photo of Shedd Aquarium by Joe Zitzelsberger from Aquarium Facebook Fan Page, Deep Dish pizza from Lou Malnati's Facebook page, Floriole photo also via their Facebook page)

L.A Without a Car, Gelato Baby 10 Do's and Don'ts in Los Angeles

Alissa, the Gelato Baby herself, have been doing a lot of back and forth for these 10 do's and don'ts of Los Angeles.

Today, things just fell into place.

Here are Alissa 10 Do's and Don'ts for Los Angeles.

1) DON'T rent a car. From the airport, take the FlyAway, a rapid bus service that takes passengers directly from LAX to Downtown, Westwood, or Van Nuys for $7.00 or less. It's the best deal in the city—especially since you could easily pay $60 for a cab. From there, it's easy to get on public transit to get where you need to go.

2) DO walk or take public transit everywhere you go. Los Angeles has a fantastic, if unsung, public transportation system that's clean, colorful, and reliable. The buses go just about everywhere you'll want to. The trains can deliver you to don't-miss destinations like Hollywood, Downtown, Pasadena, East L.A., Watts Towers, and Long Beach—and you won't have to look for parking.

3) Do use Metro to plan your trip.

4) DON'T go to the "Original Farmers Market" on 3rd and Fairfax expecting to find local produce or "The Grove" looking for orange-picking activities. Although a few of its stores and eateries are charming, there isn't much substance to be found at these two manufactured retail environments (although they are fun for people-watching, if you're into that kind of stuff).

5) DO go to one of the "real" farmers markets that pop up every day somewhere in the city. These are the best way to experience local culture and explore new neighborhoods. The biggest and most famous are the Wednesday mornings in Santa Monica or Sunday mornings in Hollywood. Here you'll be picking produce alongside celebrity chefs and nibbling prepared foods like pupusas and tamales alongside actual celebrities. On Thursday night there's a market at a Japanese estate atop a mountain in Hollywood L.A. City Farm No kidding. Thanks to Farmer Net, you can find all Hollywood farmers markets.

6) DON'T go looking for L.A.'s art scene at The Getty Museum. Sure, the views are impressive, and the building's monumental, but the environment (and the art) is more sterile than a hospital. This is not where L.A. art is made.

7) DO spend an entire day downtown experiencing L.A.'s real creative community. Head to the MOCA street art and graffiti show Art in the Streets (up through August). Head east to SCI-Arc , one of the world's most famous architecture schools, to see an installation in their gallery. Wander through the maze of artist spaces, hip stores, and galleries around Little Tokyo and Gallery Row.

8) At night, go to the Downtown Art Walk on the second Thursday of each month to see thousands of people and artists take to the streets.

9) DON'T go to Pinkberry. Please. I beg of you.

10) DO get your local ice cream fix at one of my favorite establishments. Scoops serves outrageous flavors like bacon cheddar jalapeno. Bulgarini has a greek yogurt flavor that will knock you off your feet. Pazzo  whips up the best farmers market concoctions like Meyer lemon sorbetto. Coolhaus roams the streets with ice cream sandwiches made with dirty mint ice cream and sea salt chocolate cookies.

Thanks Alissa for sharing.

Alissa Walker is a freelance writer who can most often be found in Los Angeles. She writes about design, architecture, cities, transportation, Los Angeles, and walking for many publications, including GOOD and Fast Company, and is the associate producer for the public radio show DnA: Design and Architecture. In 2010, Alissa was named as a USC/Annenberg Getty Arts Journalism Fellow for her writing about design and urbanism. She lives in a royal blue house in the Silver Lake neighborhood of Los Angeles, where she throws ice cream socials, tends to a drought-tolerant garden, writes infrequently on her blog, Gelatobaby, and relishes life in L.A. without a car.

Previously:

Get Stitched Up At Roger, Don't Venture Too Far into Tsin Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 10 Do's and Don'ts

(*All photos courtesy of Gelato Baby on Flickr, all rights reserved, used by permission)

Get Stitched Up At Roger, Don't Venture Too Far into Tsin Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 10 Do's and Don'ts

An exchange with Nicole Koo of Hong Kong based (more than marketing) firm Catch On on the paucity of Asian restaurants from Asia offering Asian food in World's 50 Best Restaurants list for 2011 leads to the return of 10 Do's and Don'ts with Hong Kong in the limelight courtesy of Paul Calder, an Australian transplant (Expat).

10 Hong Kong Do’s & Don’ts

1) Do zip up to the top of the Peak on the gravity-defying tram (Peak Tram/ 33 Garden Road). Once at the top, stroll up to Victoria Peak or, for a less challenging trek, take path along Lugard Road. The vertigo-inducing city views are a true treasure.

Don’t bother if it’s smoggy or if the Peak is smothered in cloud (it often happens). On those days, you’re lucky to see two feet in front of you, let alone any spectacular view. And don’t leave your Peak visit to the weekend. During those times, the only view you’ll see is hordes of camera-toting tourists.

2) Do cross Victoria Harbour on the iconic Star Ferry. The lolling, leisurely pace offers a nice respite from Hong Kong’s fast-and-frantic lifestyle. And aside from the old-world charm it evokes, the journey from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui lets you soak in Hong Kong’s photo-worthy skyline.

Don’t bother venturing too far into Tsim Sha Tsui or along the always-congested Nathan Road. Once you dock at Tsim Sha Tsui, you’ll find every store you need at Harbour City, Hong Kong’s biggest mall.

3) Do take a hike and tap into your wild side (and, no, this is not about a night in Wan Chai!). Contrary to popular belief, Hong Kong isn’t only about neon lights. Hong Kong’s national parks are dotted with hiking trails. For the novice walker, start with the Dragon's Back trail. About a 20-minute cab ride from Central, this gentle walk offers some spectacular natural scenery. There’s a reason why Time magazine named it “the best urban hike in the world.”  

Don’t believe the hype about Stanley Market. Yes, it’s out of the throbbing metropolis. Yes the journey aboard the double-decker bus from Exchange Bus terminus in Central is fun (take 6, 6A, 6X or 260 and snag the upper deck front seat). Yes, admittedly some of the waterside eateries are worth a visit. But the market is wall-to-wall kitsch. If cheap factory overruns and chintzy Chinese souvenirs are your thing, then you’ve found your Mecca.

4) Do drop by Aqua restaurant (30F, One Peking Road, Kowloon) and head upstairs to the bar to enjoy the spectacular panoramic view.

Don’t bother to eat there. The food isn’t nearly as delicious as the view.

5) Do get stitched up at Roger Concept Tailor (Room 504, 5F Takshing House 20 Des Voeux Road, Central). The father-son duo offer expert workmanship, quality fabrics and speedy service.

Don’t bother crossing the border into Shenzhen (China) for a cheaper deal. You may save a few dollars, but the shoddy work, ill-fitting outfits and cut-rate fabrics will cost you in the end.

6) Do dine at the Pawn. Widely considered one of Hong Kong’s most successful conversions of a heritage site, The Pawn was once the site of the infamous Woo Cheong Pawn shop. While retaining the building’s rustic charm, The Pawn is now home to one of Hong Kong’s best restaurants.

Don’t ignore the other great eateries in out-of-the-way neighborhoods. The guys behind The Pawn are also responsible for a number of boutique wine and cheese shops dotted throughout Hong Kong. Classified also serves what is arguably Hong Kong’s best coffee.

7) Do stay at Eaton Smart, Hong Kong. Ideally located in downtown Kowloon, Eaton Smart, Hong Kong is surrounded by a buzzing shopping district, heritage-rich buildings and sites of historical importance. The streets are dotted with fortunetellers, Chinese opera singers, snake shops and Chinese Medicine practitioners selling authentic herbal teas. Best of all, the hotel hosts complimentary nightly tours of the nearby markets, neon-lit neighborhoods and cultural enclaves. Eaton Smart guests can also take part in the free Tai Chi classes led by a certified, award-winning Tai Chi Master.

Don’t be taken in by the cheap hotel offers in nearby Mongkok. When a hotel charges by the hour, you know you’re in the wrong place.

8) Do find a decent Dim Sum restaurant. Tourists flock to Maxim’s Palace, City Hall, but get there early or the long wait will test your patience. For a more authentic experience, try Dim Sum (63 Sing Woo Road, Happy Valley) or the sprawling, noisy Metropol Restaurant, 4/F United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty.

Don’t fool yourself: Often the best, most authentic Chinese food is found in less-than-swanky street cafes and hawker stalls. If it’s crowded with locals, take your chances.

9) Do take a step back in time. Local history buff Jason Wordie hosts educational walks though some of Hong Kong’s infamous districts. Fascinating and fun, book through the Jason Walks site

Don’t miss out on Hong Kong’s regular cultural festivals. To stay in the loop, pick up a free copy of the weekly HK Magazine in restaurants and bars.

10) Do visit the bars along Wyndham Street, Central. Cool, cosmopolitan crowd.

Don’t bother with Lan Kwai Fong. Once considered the go-to place to party, the glory days are well and truly over. Sweaty, slobbery crowd.

Based in Hong Kong, Paul Calder has lived and worked in Asia for 15 years. Originally from Australia, his ramblings, rumblings and random thoughts have appeared in a number of prestigious publications (that should have known better).

Find out more about what Nicole, Paul and the rest of the team at Catch On are up to and taking a liking to via Catch of the Day, the Catch On blog.

Previously: Bach Themed Music Garden, Vaughan Mills Outlets, Scheffler Deli, Toronto 10 Do's and Don'ts

Bach Themed Music Garden, Vaughan Mills Outlets, Scheffler Deli, Toronto 10 Do's and Don'ts

After a one week hiatus, 10 Do's and Don'ts return.

We follow Amsterdam with Toronto as seen by The Indulgent Foodie, Nadine.

Toronto 10 Do's and Don'ts:

1. Toronto will premiere it's inaugural Foodie lifestyle design show in October.  Starting with a who's who guest list opening night party on October 20th. The event will be followed by three days of utter Foodie indulgence.  Delicious Food Show will feature the best in cooking , food and kitchen and all the lifestyle items that goes with it.

2.  Sample the variety of foods in many of Toronto's diverse ethnic neighborhoods. Indian, Caribbean, Asian, Greek, Portuguese; the list goes on. Toronto food is truly a reflection of its culturally diverse community.  One of my favorites is the Debu Indian Cuisine restaurant on Mt Pleasant. The Prix Fixe Three-Course Lunch offering a starter, main and dessert for $20 is a remarkable deal for such quality meal. The food is rich in flavour, exotic in taste and delicious. I recommend the chicken biryani with fresh rice and the butter chicken- dipped with the freshly made fully, hot garlic nan (order extra, you're going to want it). The warm rice pudding dessert with a delicate flavor of cardamom is a to-die-for treat and a wonderful conclusion to the meal.

3. Chinatown, experience a variety of oriental shops and an incredible selection of authentic chinese restaurants offering delicacies such as dim sum and peking duck. The vibrant neighborhood comes alive on weekends when the sidewalks are abundant with fruit vendors stalls, and must-have kitsch, from strainers, to glitzy slippers, and jewelry. The adventure begins at Dundas and Spadina and continues to explore a world of authentic ethnic inspiration from various Chinese cultures including Cantonese, Szechwan, Hunan. 

4. Do not eat at any restaurants with the "conditional pass" as issued by the Toronto Health department. The best is pass/green. Do not eat at conditional/yellow.

5. The St.Lawrence Market on Sunday
If you love vintage collectibles (clothing, jewelry,kitchen gadgets)art, antiques and interesting knick- knacks, the Sunday market is for you. With lots of hidden treasures, you will be sure to find something of interest at a great price. Also a great place to spot celebrities such as Ru Paul and Goldie Hawn (when they're in Town).

6.St Lawrence Market on Saturdays, the St.Lawence market is bustling with shoppers buying the best, freshest, local foods. A variety of items from meat, poultry, great seafood, cheeses, breads, and baked goodies, can be found. Vist Schefflers Deli for the best cheeses, charcuterie, and Chaloner Olive and Chili Jams that are outstanding with Cheeses.

7. Richmond Adelaide Shoe Repair bring your worn, broken, rubbed shoes. The shoe guru is a master of shoe fitting. The Louboutin, Jimmy Choo’s and Manolos will be like walking on air after a custom fit from the shoe master

8. Vaughan Mills
Vaughan Mills is a fashionista’s or fashionisto’s paradise.  It’s where factory outlets like Holt Renfrew last call meets new concept stores.  There’s something for every one in this large 1.2 million square feet retail space track style Mall.  The kids and men will have something to do visiting venues like  Hollywood's Lucky Strike Lanes, the world's largest Pro Hockey Life, Bass Pro Outdoor World and Nascar SpeedPark.

9. Don't make fun of our money calling it Monopoly money. Especially now as our currency is very strong.

Don't mock us for expression eh after every sentence.

 10.Visit Toronto's Harbourfront, any time. Toronto Harbourfront hosts a variety of events arts and culture, shows, food .  Walk along the gorgeous paths or bike along the scenic paths and enjoy the scenic views of the city and waterfront. There are free events in the Music garden.  
As you continue west along the stunning Harbourfront is the Exhibition where many events are held during the year.  The architecture of the original exhibition buildings are unique to Toronto and the grounds are nice to see .  One of my favourite building is the Horse Palace it has a long glorious history of service to the Agricultural fairs. So prestigious that the Royal family comes to open the Royal winter fair each year.  The use of columns and Art Deco elements in  the Horse Palace is a must see.

Accross the street is the Better Living Centre a classic Modernist building.  The original purpose of the Better Living Centre was to introduce new ranges of consumer goods to the baby boomer generation, making it a "space of encounter between consumer and product".  It was also known as the place where consumers came to see the latest and best in a variety of items including kitchen appliances.  It seems fitting that this where the Delicious Food Show will premiere.

Do come enjoy all the indulgence that is authentically Toronto.

For full disclosure Nadine is part of the team bringing Delicious Food Show to Toronto.

(* Photo credits: Eggplant Steak copyright Chef Debu Saha, Scheffler's Deli from their home page on St Lawrence market site, Music Garden by Gera Dillon for Harbourfront Centre site)

New Day in Amsterdam, 10 Do's and Dont's by Bailey, Citizen of the World

It's Saturday so I am taking a break from the Cook the Books Contest rollout to share Bailey Alexander 10 Do's and Don'ts on Amsterdam.

Bailey is a recent transplant to the city so her impressions are still fresh. She is well read and traveled and lands wherever her tech work takes her.

Her previous city was Paris.

Here come Bailey's 10 Do's and Don'ts of Amsterdam.

1) Do rent a bike, they're relatively cheap and rental shops are easy enough to locate

     Don't walk in the bike lanes, the cyclists own this town and know it.  Also, the English like to drink and they choose to drink here. Hen night is popular and their mode of transport is bicycles; be aware.

2)  Do enjoy the tolerance and buy a joint or two

      Don't buy drugs from off the street, you may be sorry.

3)  Do enjoy walking through the Red Light district, the windows, the sex shops, anything goes, its crazy insane.

     Don't take pictures of the prostitutes in the windows, if you do, like I did, you'll get an angry knock from another window along the street or worse yet, a pimp will have 'a word'.

4)  Do enjoy the beer culture

     Don't expect good food and wine, they're here but hard to find.

5)  Do walk along the canals, there are more here than Venice, per kilometer. And they're just lovely.

      Don't expect a boat canal trip to provide the same perspective, you can't see much, but they can be almost as much fun.

6)   Do go into the coffee shops and explore your options, with a sensible approach of course.

      Don't confuse coffee shops with cafe's, the former offers pot, the latter offers only a pot of coffee.

7)  Do enjoy the environs, it's a sweet and relatively safe place to tour, live and work.

     Don't take your mind off your wallet and possessions, especially as trams to the station and airport are packed with vandals exploiting tired tourists.

8)  Don't expect the fashion and style that exists in the culture capitals that are Paris and Rome, I've lived in both and the Dutch appear to  gravitate more towards German and Nordic dress sense.
 
     Do expect English to be spoken everywhere, Amsterdam is a very international town; most residents, bi-lingual, speaking Dutch and a particular brand known as Dunglish.

9)  Do enjoy the pea soup and pancakes, both are exceptional and available on just about every other street.

     Don't expect much beyond those two Dutch specialties, far better to explore the excellent selection of otherly fare like Indonesian and Thai for your gastronomic.

10)  Do ask your Dutch friends for their favorite do's and don'ts

        Don't expect them to assist with your list.

Keep up with her musings via Bailey Alexander: The Europhile, mostly culture and travel.

Previously: Kiss a Girafe, Hop on a Matatu in Nairobi, Green City in the Sun 10 Do's and Don'ts

(Photos, All rights reserved by Bailey Alexander/The Europhile)

Kiss a Girafe, Hop on a Matatu in Nairobi, Green City in the Sun 10 Do's and Don'ts

I cannot thank world traveler Ulrike Reinhard enough for putting Africa on the 10 Do's and Don'ts map.

I first shared Mac Jordan guide to Accra on January 22.

Today Mark Kaigwa whose digital fingerprints are all over the Kenyan scene from digital art to start ups and innovation introduces us to his hometown of Nairobi.

Enjoy the ride!

10 Do's and Don'ts in Nairobi

Affectionately known as the Green City in the Sun, Nairobi's typically bathed in the sun's warm gaze with minimal humidity and a calm breeze at a high of 26°.

Nairobi can be a great city to navigate and discover, and it never hurts to have a local's perspective on what to do. Mark Kaigwa gives us his perspective on what to do and what not to do in Nairobi.

DO's

1. Do Take A Safari

Sometimes it's easy for a Nairobian to forget that we're one of the only cities in the world to have a National Park in the city limits. The Nairobi National Park is an amazing sight to see. Fresh off your business meeting with 2 hours to kill before you need to be at the airport? Why not head to the National Park and see some lions on the prowl or watch a herd of buffalo by sunset. There's several types of safaris to take, whether wildlife, cultural, adventure, sport, scenic and specialist. Nairobi's known as Africa's safari capital for good reason.

2. Do Visit a "Maasai Market"

On any given day of the week, somewhere in Nairobi, there's an open air market of  hand-crafted crafts commonly referred to as a "Maasai Market". It's recommended you visit with a local to do the bargaining for you, but you can be sure to find some good finds here, whether it's jewellery, clothing, carvings, statuettes or beadwork, you'll find a little piece of Nairobi to take back home with you.

3. Do Prepare for The Traffic aka The Jam

Rush-hour in Nairobi can be manic and the ride from the airport will most likely give you a baptism-by-fire as a passenger immersed in Nairobi's traffic. It's best to travel between rush-hour times, avoiding 7-9AM, 1-2PM and 5-7PM. You can be stuck in traffic quite a while if you hit it, from 30 minutes to a grim 2-3 hours. Local radio alerts on which roads tend to be helpful.

4. Do Try Nyama Choma!

Nyama Choma is the typical Kenyan barbeque. Usually consisting of goat meat served with other delicious treats such as ugali (maizemeal) and kachumbari (salsa) this is a must-try. Do try the various meat products of the barbeque as well as authentic Kenyan dishes. Immerse yourself! Do consult locally for a great place to have nyama-choma and visit with a local for best experience.

5. Down for some game? Try The Carnivore

One of Nairobi's attractions is The Carnivore Restaurant, where you can try an array of wild game meat in a buffet-style where the meats keep coming until you say it stop. Delicacies include zebra, gazelle, wildebeeste, crocodile, camel among  other seasonal treats.

6. Do Ask About The Need-To-Know Laws

Recently there's been some changes to the municipal laws e.g. don't cross the road while speaking on your cellphone (unless on handsfree), no leaning or sitting on ledges and no serving drinks after 11 PM (this one's currently being debated) get yourself a refresher by asking anyone from your cab driver to any local what bunch of city-centre related rules that you need to know.

7. Do Keep Your Valuables With You

It's common to visit coffee shops, where there's free Wi-Fi and take a bathroom break leaving your valuables in plain sight. For this, in Nairobi it's better safe than sorry.

8. Do Get On Top of The Kenya International Conference Centre

One of the best place to view get a 360 degree view of the city of Nairobi in all its sun-bathed spleandour. It's one smart way to watch the sun set and if the fog's not too heavy you can see all across the outskirts of the city, from the slums to the National Park; entry can cost Ksh. 400/200 ($5/$2.50)

9. Do Have Kenyan Tea (and Coffee)

Take my word for it, Kenyans have some great tea, ask for a cup to be prepared in typical Kenyan fashion with milk (or without, if that's your preference) and relish the great flavour and aroma of one of nature's most beautiful gifts. You won't regret it! And while you're at it, sample some of the world's best cofee. Some noteworthy coffee houses include the Nairobi Java House, Dormans Coffee and Pete's Coffee.

10. Do Kiss A Giraffe!

The Giraffe Centre breeds the endangered Rothschild Giraffe and has education and conservation programmes for children as well as as plenty of information on giraffes. Part of their program involves feeding the giraffes and you have the option to kiss a giraffe in the process. With the way our planet's going, this may be a once in a lifetime opportunity.

DON'Ts

1. Don't Forget To Ask The Price of the Taxi/Cab Before You Depart

When it comes to driving and commuting across the city you've got options, and if you choose the most stable of these options - the taxi cab, it's good to keep a few things in mind. Always agree a price upfront and proceed to pay after. Cabs here don't typically operate meters and set prices as per distance to be travelled, the earlier you can hear the price stated (and in some cases bargain) the better. They're not cheap, but can make life easier and safer. If possible ask a local for a referral or at your hotel.

2. Don't Expect Perfect Timing

"Fast food" has a different meaning here, add a few minutes. If you've got an casual appointment ask if they mean Kenyan time which can typically mean a small delay of 5-15 minutes to longer. Also expect people to give you their projected place e.g.

3. Don't Go To The Malls

You came all this way to stick to the malls? Really? Sure you can do better than that. There's plenty of places to explore in good old Nairobi. If you must, however, The Westgate Mall, Sarit Center, Yaya Centre and The Junction are good malls to shop and relax at.

4. Don't Forget To Carry Change, It Helps Drive a Bargain!

Try and break down your money at the Forex into smaller denominations. The largest being the Ksh. 1,000 note. If you're going shopping and negotiating it usually pays to have change. Bargaining tactic: "I only have Ksh. 500, so the maximum I can pay for it is Ksh. 300."

5. Don't Forget to Ride A Matatu (at least once)

This is debatable, but it's hard to argue that matatus (minivan taxis) aren't part of the lifeblood of the city. Loved and loathed, they are a reflection of popular culture and the Kenyan experience. I'd recommend that if looking for a rush, you take a ride on a matatu (there's routes that are more lively than others) in the company of a local companion. I insist you have a local companion if you'd like to check this off your bucket list. Take care of your pockets and personal items on the trip.

6. Don't Carry Large Amounts of Cash. Join The Mobile Money Revolution!

With the mobile money revolution going on in Kenya, you may as well experience it. Instead of carrying cash everywhere you go, you could opt to balance cash, credit and mobile money. If you're in town for more than a week, try register a SIM card and see how convenient and useful it will prove to be for goods at local supermarkets, stores, cab fare and other informal payments.

7. Don't Forget You Might Need to Pay for a Visa Upon Arrival

Some visitors have to pay for a visa upon entry at the airport or border crossing. A single entry visa costs $50 and is valid for 3 months. A transit visa is $20. You can also pay in Euros and English Pounds. If travelling through Kenya on a connecting flight and don't leave the airport, you don't need a visa. A single entry visa is useful though because you're good for the whole East African region: Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania and Rwanda.

8. Don't Expect Amazing Internet Speeds

...unless you really need them. In which case you ought to get yourself a portable 3G modem (currently only from Safaricom), where 300MB will set you back Ksh. 1,000 (approx $12.50). Overall, there's fibre and there are hundreds of cyber cafes across the city but it can pay to have a backup dongle in case. The 3G signal has proven to be reliable in the city limits and in major towns in Kenya. If you would like to opt for a cyber cafe, you'll find some of the fastest cyber cafe's in the city centre at Norwich Union House, opposite the Hilton Hotel. Expensive ones tend to be in the big shopping malls and in the Westlands area though they're more exclusive and less crowded (but not necessarily faster).

9. Don't Smoke on the Streets

A friend of mine recently faced some trouble for this one and it's certainly not obvious. Smoking on the streets of Nairobi's city centre is against the law, except in designated smoking zones. If anything, take your cue from other smokers.

10. Don't Forget To Ask About Roadworks

It's useful if planning extensive road travel that you ask about roadworks if you're up and about the city and its environs. There's been some great construction but it can affect your timing by as little as a few minutes to as much as several hours or make you miss your engagement altogether.

Overall like a buddy of mine declares on his famous blog, M.I.L.O.N.A.R.E - "Me I Love Nairobi Regardless" (Kenyans have a penchant for starting sentences by saying "me, I") not to mention a habit of replying to the greeting “hello” by saying “fine.” Those are just some of the peculiarities that make Kenyans who they are.

It's a beautiful city with its quirks but a fantastic and memorable place to visit, and lucky for me, I call it home.

Let's see what the next 10 Do's and Don'ts will be.

Previously: Hole of Rome, St Theresa in Ecstasy, Eat at Sant Anna, Rome 10 Do's and Don'ts

(* Some of the photos featured by Kenyan photographer Mutua Matheka. See his full photography series atop KICC here)